Cost of Winning: The Monster Mav Chronicles

The picture makes the motor look tiny in that bare chassis. Also looks like it can be a pain to work with all the tubes you have to go through to get to the motor.


Keep up the good work!
 
And here, I thought I called 'em like I saw 'em. You guys give new meaning to the phrase "telling it like it is"! Still waiting for more info on your rear diff results Jim. Are we up and running? Or, did you already say that it is, and I'm just too old and saturated with Stout to remember:confused: Damn, I love Guinness Stout:D!


Still buttoning up the details. I lengthened the driveshaft myself the first time and was meticulous about getting it straight, so I thought. I fires it up and put it in gear on jack stands in the garage. Thank God I did. It was waaaaaaaaay out of balance.

So I I got a buddy who has a buddy who has a machine shop in his garage with a 4 jaw chuck for his metal lathe. I don't like to use other people's tools in other peoples garages so I paid him in man currency, alcohol! A 1.75L of Seagrams VO and an 18 pack of coors light bottles.

The guy who did he work is a sprint car fabricator from Australia and I watched him and helped him do all the machining and press work. The driveshaft is now true and straight. I originally used 2@ schedule 40 pipe to extend it. After some late night brainstorming I deduced that I didn't want to use a material to add anymore rotating mass to sapp horsepower. So I matched the existing OEM driveshaft material, 1.375 OD
.120 wall DOM tube. The TIG welds he put down are pretty nice and the driveshaft was left in the lathe where it was welded to cool to ambient air temperature before it was taken out to ensure that it would remain straight and true.

I decided to replace the rear u joint since I buggered it up a little while disassembling it to chuck it up in the lathe. The u joint will be here on Wednesday form Rocky Mountain ATV. It was only 23.99. The dealer wanted $56..... highway robbery if you ask me.
 
Which part Alex? If I wasn't satisfied with the results from yesterday I was gonna call you and have you ship me one out.
 
Still buttoning up the details. I lengthened the driveshaft myself the first time and was meticulous about getting it straight, so I thought. I fires it up and put it in gear on jack stands in the garage. Thank God I did. It was waaaaaaaaay out of balance.

So I I got a buddy who has a buddy who has a machine shop in his garage with a 4 jaw chuck for his metal lathe. I don't like to use other people's tools in other peoples garages so I paid him in man currency, alcohol! A 1.75L of Seagrams VO and an 18 pack of coors light bottles.

The guy who did he work is a sprint car fabricator from Australia and I watched him and helped him do all the machining and press work. The driveshaft is now true and straight. I originally used 2@ schedule 40 pipe to extend it. After some late night brainstorming I deduced that I didn't want to use a material to add anymore rotating mass to sapp horsepower. So I matched the existing OEM driveshaft material, 1.375 OD
.120 wall DOM tube. The TIG welds he put down are pretty nice and the driveshaft was left in the lathe where it was welded to cool to ambient air temperature before it was taken out to ensure that it would remain straight and true.

I decided to replace the rear u joint since I buggered it up a little while disassembling it to chuck it up in the lathe. The u joint will be here on Wednesday form Rocky Mountain ATV. It was only 23.99. The dealer wanted $56..... highway robbery if you ask me.
That Aussie gets paid more than me. I'll need to raise the comp agreement the next time around! You'll find that the yoke in your drive shaft must have been designed by the same imagineer that decided on the splined hub clearance for the stub axles. The size of the bearing caps on the front shaft are too small, and the bore in the yoke does not have a sufficient interference fit to hold the cap tight enough to keep it fro0m rotating. I am replacing both driveshafts just for the 1000, because the when you rotate the drive shaft, some of the u-joint bearing caps spin in the yoke. It's hard to believe that there is more friction between the needle rollers and cap i.d. than there is between the bore in the yoke and the outside surface of the cap, but there is. After 2 u-joint replacements, our shafts are trash. The spread between the cir-clips is a little wide also. Once pressed (or dropped, in my case) in, there is about .015" of end play between the caps and cir-clips. These problems exist mainly on the longer front shaft.
 
Which part Alex? If I wasn't satisfied with the results from yesterday I was gonna call you and have you ship me one out.

On the driveshaft part. Just like we talked, on Phil's Maverick we turned the stock shaft down on both side to a press fit then tig tacked it on four sides, after each tacked we put it in the lathe to make sure it was straight and then burned it in. It worked out perfect for us. The production ones will go through a driveshaft shop
 
That's exactly how we did it. I thank you for the advice.
I was gonna have a driveline place do it here but no one would touch it just like Reid told me
 
So Reid, are you saying that in the future I should swap out the yokes and u joints in the rear for joints that have more needle bearings and surface area? Do you have a joint and yoke in mind?

Also I pm'd you.
 
So Reid, are you saying that in the future I should swap out the yokes and u joints in the rear for joints that have more needle bearings and surface area? Do you have a joint and yoke in mind?

Also I pm'd you.
The longer, front driveshaft is the vulnerable one. The u-joints blew out of ours in the last 50 miles at the Baja 500. A circlip fell out, and I Yamabond those suckers in, and we lost a cap. F'd up the whole drive shaft. For what ever reason, the u-joints in the front shaft are smaller than the u-joints in the rear shaft. I'm no driveline guru, but I would think that the longer, heavier drive shaft would benefit from the larger u-joint. The difference in bearing cap diameters on the front and rear shafts is around an 1/8". Adding to the problem, is the fact that the stout, rear shaft bolts in at both ends which is fine, but the front shaft bolts at the front diff only, and has that sloppy fit, splined-slide interface where it attaches at the front of the motor.

I'm saying yes, If I build another race mav, I will bugdet in for EDM work to match the tranny output shafts, or whatever it takes to build yokes with larger u-joints, and a better fit for the bearing cap, as well as tighten the tolerance between the two cir-clips. Don't forget that we run our alternator off of our front drive shaft, so it compounds the wear problems with the u-joints. I still believe that the rear u-joints would be of an adequate size if they used them on the front shafts too.

About the HID's, we had 2 kits left before V2R, and I was not aware that each kit only has provisions for 2 of the four lights. Therefore, it takes two kits to do one car, and we stole on of the bulbs out of a kit for the Mini Mav. Marc wants to keep the 3/4 of a kit we have left for backups at the 1000. Sorry buddy:(
 
What's your plan for the water down in Mexico? Marc is showing pics of mud and a water crossing. With a open belt cover you can't get the belt wet or it will just spin. It's also really bad for the clutches and can cause the sheaths to break.
 
What's your plan for the water down in Mexico? Marc is showing pics of mud and a water crossing. With a open belt cover you can't get the belt wet or it will just spin. It's also really bad for the clutches and can cause the sheaths to break.
We're bringing Sparkletts. Ha, not funny! Really, you are correct. There will be a section or two that, upon a planned belt change, we will switch over to a totally sealed, closed cover with mechanical ducting. I am confident I can get more life out of the belt if I just had a couple of days at Plaster City, but I know I won't. With our well guarded engine, we will most likely see at least 90 minutes of planned down time in the pits. It will give the rest of the guys a chance to catch up with the running fatso, the Iron anchor, the burly beast that is the Monster Mav. Ha heee Hooooooo!:cool:
 
What's your plan for the water down in Mexico? Marc is showing pics of mud and a water crossing. With a open belt cover you can't get the belt wet or it will just spin. It's also really bad for the clutches and can cause the sheaths to break.

At 8k Rpm they dry off fast.
 
You should set up a bed for Marc to take a nap. Iron Man Ivan Stewert ain't got shit on ol Marc. Lol
I believe now that they added more miles, for a total of 1,280+ miles (yes, you heard it here in the Chronicles first), upon finishing the race, Marc will have set a SCORE record for most consecutive miles ever driven in a single race by one person:eek::eek:. We're talking about stopping for taco's before the finish of the race, if the lead warrants it. Really. Do you guys think that would be arrogant? Ignorant? Disrespectful? Cool maybe:cool:? Or maybe, it will be only as much as making a statement. Our Swan Song. It will be the final event for the Monster Mav's short career. One season of shame, and one of glorious proportions. Either way, this race ought to be one of the most talked about in recent years, or perhaps ever. It will be no cake walk for any UTE, including ours. But one thing is for certain: If it's hard for us, it will be undoubtedly harder for the rest of the class.

Our car ain't no class 1 car, nor is it even a roomy 4-seater. It will be a tiny, and cramped 2 seat ride for nearly a day and a half. Marc will be able to get out of the car 2 or 3 times and rest for 20 - 25 minutes each time, as I perform scheduled belt and chassis maintenance.. It won't be Marc's first time spending over a day and a half in his race car. Marc once sat in his General Tires, Monster Energy, Boost Mobile class 6 truck racing for over 40 hours in a past Baja 1ooo (I believe it was in 2009, or 2010. I wasn't part of that effort.), only to miss the cutoff time by 3 minutes. Another time racing in Mexico, I believe it was for team Kawasaki, he crashed hard and broke his shoulder bone, or clavicle, or whatever they call it. Picked himself up, and raced an additional 100 miles:eek:. I don't know what he's saying over on the evil side that is F-book, but I'm sure he's playing down his role, and the task ahead. If he weren't so macho, I'd probably feel sorry for him.
 
The pictures of the loader that was buried I the faces of book today by Marc were crazy!!!!!!!


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