crazywatson
#13 - UTVUnderground Approved
Oh good lord has being politically correct spread to the forums now too? Lol People just need to quit being vaginas!
And here, I thought I called 'em like I saw 'em. You guys give new meaning to the phrase "telling it like it is"! Still waiting for more info on your rear diff results Jim. Are we up and running? Or, did you already say that it is, and I'm just too old and saturated with Stout to remember Damn, I love Guinness Stout!
Last post of the day.
When building a UTV, dont box yourself in and only look at UTV's for inspiration. Doing so will fore sure close your mind, and you will build something far less then what could be built, Look & think out outside the box.
There are things on a TT, class 1, class 10, 1600 and even a class 11 if you really look that can be taken and interpreted on a UTV. For example, our 5/1600 car. Its just a 5/1600, but when you look at the details and really think about why this or that was done, you will see things that you might see on a TT or class 1 car, even though its a VW with a beam & torsion bars. Many things we did to this car were way ahead if its time, and somethings have still not been duplicated.
Before you weld a tube, mount a bracket or part. Think about how it is being used, how you will use it in race conditions, and how you use it during prep. Then come up with one or more ways to mount or use that item. After doing this you will find which method is best. At times you see things that look cool or are different, yet when its time they are not functional in race conditions.
Perfect example was ready about clogged air filter at this years Baja 500. And reading that some teams could not change their filters easily, as to how they mounted them. Or if they could it was time consuming. I laughed as this is part of planing & designing the perfect race car. Each & every part must have a reason why its there, and not just because it works. Think about actual function of the part, think about how you might service or replace that part during the race in a pit or in the field. Think about prep and how does it effect the order of prepping the car. And how does that part effect the part & pieces around it.
Our 5/1600 can be stripped 85% if not more with two wrench sizes. 9/16 & 3/4. There is a reason we did this. It was not by chance.
Look at this new Jimco class 10 car. There is allot of inspiration and things that could be incorporated into a UTV. I have personally looked at this car up close at Jimco as it was being built. Look at the weight, only 2500 lbs. That in itself is impressive and should make several UTV builders think about chassis design and weight.
http://www.race-dezert.com/home/coleman-motorsports-class-10-114339.html
Last post of the day.
Look at this new Jimco class 10 car. There is allot of inspiration and things that could be incorporated into a UTV. I have personally looked at this car up close at Jimco as it was being built. Look at the weight, only 2500 lbs. That in itself is impressive and should make several UTV builders think about chassis design and weight.
http://www.race-dezert.com/home/coleman-motorsports-class-10-114339.html
What does a car like this one cost?
Hey Hans, the 70's called, and they want their Polaroid back!! Ha heee!
Hey, is that idler arm looking gizmo atop your steering rack a slider that is attached to the gear rack? The round plug at the end where the rack apparently attaches to the "slider" appears to be factory for some reason. Do you still own these cars?
Hey Hans, the 70's called, and they want their Polaroid back!! Ha heee!
Hey, is that idler arm looking gizmo atop your steering rack a slider that is attached to the gear rack? The round plug at the end where the rack apparently attaches to the "slider" appears to be factory for some reason. Do you still own these cars?
So, the point where the inner tie rod connects to is an idler arm that pivots from some point above the gear rack, and not a sliding assembly attached to the gear rack? Never mind. I just saw your new pic.Reid, the diff is moved forward 4 inches to match the a arms and keep the axles inline. Do to space restrictions the rack has to be mounted up high to keep the steering geometry correct. The idler (not sure if this is the correct terminology) allows the tie rods to be in the correct position to eliminate bump steer. The round plug is a machined piece that allows a 1/2 bolt to mount it to the rack on each end.
I do actually own a polaroid but those pics were taken with my cell phone.
And yes,I do own 2 Teryx's at this time. I race one in lucas oil short course and one is for prerunning and just going out in the desert with my buddies.
Yeah Reid you don't want to do the FB it turns your bad feelings into good it is evil!