Cost of Winning: The Monster Mav Chronicles

Image is Everything:
Spent the last 3 days finding and repairing cracks in the frame as a result of the V2R incident. Do yourself a favor, and never powder coat any stressed item or component. The thickness of the powder is enough that it will literally hide a cracked weld that lies beneath it. Exploratory grinding off of the coating around suspect joints takes forever, not to mention trying to match the color when spot painting it. We had some rattle cans made up that matches the booger green, and it cost over 200 bucks for touch up paint!

First, 3-4 coats of a white base, followed by sanding, then 3-4 coats of the green. I feel like F-ing Earl Scheib! But seriously, the color matches surprisingly well.
 

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That thing looks so hammered. All the pictures from around SEMA made it look so nice but all the race ones look like its been racing since 1998. Did the color fade over time or is it just always dirty now? The black doesn't help either.

Keep it up. Polaris needs a wake up call at the 1000.
 
Image is Everything:
Spent the last 3 days finding and repairing cracks in the frame as a result of the V2R incident. Do yourself a favor, and never powder coat any stressed item or component. The thickness of the powder is enough that it will literally hide a cracked weld that lies beneath it. Exploratory grinding off of the coating around suspect joints takes forever, not to mention trying to match the color when spot painting it. We had some rattle cans made up that matches the booger green, and it cost over 200 bucks for touch up paint!

First, 3-4 coats of a white base, followed by sanding, then 3-4 coats of the green. I feel like F-ing Earl Scheib! But seriously, the color matches surprisingly well.



Earl Scheib...LOL! I remember his commercials here in SoCal when he would say "I'll paint any car any color for just $29.95!" Which was great if you didn't mind paint on the chrome bumpers, emblems, glass, tires etc. and it pealing off in a few years. Here is a link to one commercial circa 1977 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkdtOOYdQOs and he threw in $10 of metal work for free. Right!!
 
Earl Scheib...LOL! I remember his commercials here in SoCal when he would say "I'll paint any car any color for just $29.95!" Which was great if you didn't mind paint on the chrome bumpers, emblems, glass, tires etc. and it pealing off in a few years. Here is a link to one commercial circa 1977 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkdtOOYdQOs and he threw in $10 of metal work for free. Right!!
How the heck does anybody paint a car for 30 bucks? The paint had to cost at least 10 of that, so 20 bones to prep, paint, and buff out a car. :eek:Wow! My earliest memory was 49.95. I've been growling "Riiight" now for most of my life. Now, I remember where I got it! Classic. What was minimum wage in the mid 70's? $1.35/hr rings a bell. That's the time that a quarter bought you a "Big Grab" size bag of Fritos, and a can of bean dip. Reeses were .05! God, I love Reeses almost as much as Stout!
 
That thing looks so hammered. All the pictures from around SEMA made it look so nice but all the race ones look like its been racing since 1998. Did the color fade over time or is it just always dirty now? The black doesn't help either.

Keep it up. Polaris needs a wake up call at the 1000.
Actually Zane, we just had the frame powdercoated prior to SEMA and the 1000, so you are correct in that the car was spot on clean for the SEMA show. Prior to that, the car was pretty much all black. Subsequent repairs had me spot painting the repaired areas black, since there is not really a green paint over the counter that matched the booger green of the frame. I'll get 'er all dolled up for her final dance, then I'll happily put it out of its misery after the Baja.
 

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Finally, I'm done "touching up" the powder coating. Now, I can continue on with the assembly. I already got the 4 wheel alignment out of the way, because I knew I wouldn't have time for it at the end, and therefore, it would not have gotten done. I wish I had more time to post pics w/explanations, but I don't.

The four wheel alignment revealed that the driver side rear axle sagged by one inch of true vertical wheel travel, the results of a trophy truck landing atop the rear of our car. All of the load from the impact went directly through the coil over, and straight into the upper shock mount, stretching it up and forward a total of .82". I know this to be factual because when I squared the chassis back up onto the "alignment stands", and installed the ride height set up struts I built in the beginning (they are the law of the land when it comes to alignment references), the d/s rear wheel was 1" higher. Multiply that by a motion ratio of .82, and bingo! It is just pure coincidence that the upper shock mount moved by exactly the same distance as the motion ratio. The crash also moved the track 1/4"out, and the wheelbasae 3/8", and asdded about 3-4 degrees to the rear toe in. In short, it twisted the frame. The only thing left for me to do now is cycle the suspension, and confirm that the chassis adjustments I made do not overextend, or bind the plunging axles.

I'll throw in an older pic of the alignment/ride height struts, as well as the paint repair I just finished.
 

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Sponsor support
It's about time for a shout out to a company who has been providing incredibly durable protection components since the inception of our car last year. I am speaking none other than Dave and Bob over at Factory UTV. I can't say enough about how they continue to support our efforts, race in and race out. Following, is just a tiny example of what this company does for the longevity, and durability of our race car. With out a doubt, there were times that we surely would have DNF'd without their product protecting the Monster Mav. If there ever was a good example of durability and toughness in a product, FUTV's bash plates, belly pans, and protective shields would be it.

I'd like to show you all the rear CV joint guards (and as incidents on the track revealed, our lower a arm savers as well) that we have been running.. This addition to the group of UHMW products that FUTV provides for us has been instrumental in our ability to remain rolling forward in each and every race we run.
The rear CV joints get pummeled by debris and rocks being thrown back by the front tires. In nearly every race, we were cracking cv joint boots. After the cracked boot, it is only a brief matter of time until dirt enters the cv joint and ends your momentum, and a podium. So, we made a simple cardboard pattern of a guard that we thought would function well. FUTV immediately responded, and this is the result. A sacrificial component that every single race we run, gets used up. From a deeply pitted surface, to chunks taken out of the lower protective edge, these shields have performed their task in protecting our cv joints 100% of the time. Not once has a boot craked or failed since we've been running them. The abuse that the leading edge see's is indicative of what would have been most likely catastrophic lower rear control; arm damage. Look at the pics, and see for yourself. I secure the shields using 5/16"-24, 150,000 lb. tensile hex cap screws that are tapped directly into the leading edge of our lower a arms. I apply a liberal amount of silicone in between the guard and the arm before installing them, and use 242 Loctite on the threads to keep them from backing out.
 

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Some more proof that you can not compete in desert racing, at a high level, and leave the bottom of your race car exposed. Following, are pics showing the total UHMW package that Factory UTV supplies for our car. Also, note the frame damage sustained at this years Baja 500. This damage was sustained with the 1/2" thick UHMW skid plates in place. Just imagine if we ran stock OEM skid plates what the frame would look like! Instead of a 1st place finish, it surely would have been a DNF without the protection provided by FUTV's durable belly pans and protective plates and guards. Thanks again FUTV, for being a partner in our winning season!:D
 

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SCAB FAB 101:

Big Jim once asked me why it takes so long for me to prep our car. Why do I often times need to work 100 hrs/week in the weeks leading up to a race in order to get the car ready, when they can do the same task with 1 or 2 guys in a 40 hour week structure. Basically, why does it take so much longer to ready the Monster Mav for battle. Well, I've come across a great opportunity to exemplify my point.

After the V2R damage fiasco, I've had my plate full. I had to fly out of town on a business "adventure". I had to design and develop drawings for a complex take off ramp. I had to build a SCORE legal race car out of a stock Maverick. So, a month after the V2R race, I am finally able to turn my attention towards the task at hand. First, repairing the damage incurred at V2R, then, re-finish the repaired areas to blend in the booger green powdercoat, and finally, prep and assemble the car. When one wears all the hats as I do, one relies on sublet labor to deliver their services as agreed upon.

Case in point: We sent out 4 driveshafts over 3 weeks ago. 2 brand new stockers, and 2 old samples to use as a reference. Long story short, the shop let us down. Misled Marc when making the commitment to deliver the job. Now, I have the shafts back in the shop, and need to solve the problem. I already exhausted the search for a local shop to build UTV drive shafts in the past, so I won't waste time there. No one gave a crap to be involved because they are too busy with general automotive shafts to squeeze in a custom job, and they couldn't balance it anyway. So, now I'm screwed, right? WRONG!

GRABBING THE BULL BY THE HORNS:
In looking at the dilemma yesterday, I decided to just do it myself. No fancy tools. No lathe,. No balancing fixtures or devices. Just the caveman, in his cave, with his trusty rock tied to a stick that he calls a hammer. The jest of it is this:
I used my 14" chop saw, added a 2nd wheel for more consistent material removal, set up a vice and v block that I can rotate the shaft on, clamped on a shaft collar to use as a stop, and went to town. 5 hours later, I have 2 complete factory u-joints ready to weld into a new, longer tube and call it a drive shaft. I estimate another 3-4 hours to weld it into a tube, and devise a way to balance it, OR: just rely on the tube to be concentrically accurate. I'll probably resort to the latter.

The key was to separate the weld-in nub that makes up 1/2 of the u-joint from its tube, without altering the original shape and diameter of the weld-in stub side.

I don't have time to lay down verbiage on the step by step process. The pics should define that well enough. Suffice it to say that, I handled what a shop with purpose built machinery refused to, in my cave, with my rock and hammer. F those panzies. I won't mention the name of the douschebag who dogged us, but I found out about him via a recommendation here from a member who had a good experience, I assume, using said douschebag (vendor).

The first pic is for you Jim. This is what our car looks like as of last night, with only two short weeks to finish assembling it, then testing. I need to do some clutch tuning as well. We need to have time to test a re-valving of the shocks. I need to modify the CVT blower system for conditions at the 1000. I still need to repair/rewire the burned out section of the rear (thanks alot, Tim). I can add a million other "need to's", but you get the idea. The majority of teams would not persevere in such unforgiving conditions, but I never say no. I don't know how to try. I only know how to do. Yeah, my life kinda sucks right about now. Think I'll crack open a beer and get to work!
 

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SCAB FAB 101 (cont'd):
I'll add text later. Just 5 more sequence shots for you all to absorb.
For those who will reply saying they too have overcome adversity, please elaborate. Tell me how you successfully used your drill motor to machine a spindle. Don't however, compare if you only worked longer hours to get 'er done. Remember, I'm already putting in 100 hour weeks right now. Without this drive shaft deal. I have no tools to do the a drive shaft, but I made do. Toot, toot! (my own horn) We'll still kick their ass in Baja. Ain't nothing getting in the way of our championship.
 

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Reid, Trust me my couple of guys have been hard at it all year on Preps, Builds, Repairs, Customer Additions, WORC's Cars, Lucas Oil Cars and even Trophy Carts:eek: Its been a busy year, Did I mention Cognito Supported cars wrapped up 3 championships in Lucas oil this year:D.

SCAB FAB 101:

Big Jim once asked me why it takes so long for me to prep our car. Why do I often times need to work 100 hrs/week in the weeks leading up to a race in order to get the car ready, when they can do the same task with 1 or 2 guys in a 40 hour week structure. Basically, why does it take so much longer to ready the Monster Mav for battle. Well, I've come across a great opportunity to exemplify my point.

After the V2R damage fiasco, I've had my plate full. I had to fly out of town on a business "adventure". I had to design and develop drawings for a complex take off ramp. I had to build a SCORE legal race car out of a stock Maverick. So, a month after the V2R race, I am finally able to turn my attention towards the task at hand. First, repairing the damage incurred at V2R, then, re-finish the repaired areas to blend in the booger green powdercoat, and finally, prep and assemble the car. When one wears all the hats as I do, one relies on sublet labor to deliver their services as agreed upon.

Case in point: We sent out 4 driveshafts over 3 weeks ago. 2 brand new stockers, and 2 old samples to use as a reference. Long story short, the shop let us down. Misled Marc when making the commitment to deliver the job. Now, I have the shafts back in the shop, and need to solve the problem. I already exhausted the search for a local shop to build UTV drive shafts in the past, so I won't waste time there. No one gave a crap to be involved because they are too busy with general automotive shafts to squeeze in a custom job, and they couldn't balance it anyway. So, now I'm screwed, right? WRONG!

GRABBING THE BULL BY THE HORNS:
In looking at the dilemma yesterday, I decided to just do it myself. No fancy tools. No lathe,. No balancing fixtures or devices. Just the caveman, in his cave, with his trusty rock tied to a stick that he calls a hammer. The jest of it is this:
I used my 14" chop saw, added a 2nd wheel for more consistent material removal, set up a vice and v block that I can rotate the shaft on, clamped on a shaft collar to use as a stop, and went to town. 5 hours later, I have 2 complete factory u-joints ready to weld into a new, longer tube and call it a drive shaft. I estimate another 3-4 hours to weld it into a tube, and devise a way to balance it, OR: just rely on the tube to be concentrically accurate. I'll probably resort to the latter.

The key was to separate the weld-in nub that makes up 1/2 of the u-joint from its tube, without altering the original shape and diameter of the weld-in stub side.

I don't have time to lay down verbiage on the step by step process. The pics should define that well enough. Suffice it to say that, I handled what a shop with purpose built machinery refused to, in my cave, with my rock and hammer. F those panzies. I won't mention the name of the douschebag who dogged us, but I found out about him via a recommendation here from a member who had a good experience, I assume, using said douschebag (vendor).

The first pic is for you Jim. This is what our car looks like as of last night, with only two short weeks to finish assembling it, then testing. I need to do some clutch tuning as well. We need to have time to test a re-valving of the shocks. I need to modify the CVT blower system for conditions at the 1000. I still need to repair/rewire the burned out section of the rear (thanks alot, Tim). I can add a million other "need to's", but you get the idea. The majority of teams would not persevere in such unforgiving conditions, but I never say no. I don't know how to try. I only know how to do. Yeah, my life kinda sucks right about now. Think I'll crack open a beer and get to work!
 

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Last edited:
By the way, we may have a used lathe for sale. It was tore down to have the motor rewound and never put back together as we acquired another nicer one. Its got to go as we are making room for new equipment.
 
By the way, we may have a used lathe for sale. It was tore down to have the motor rewound and never put back together as we acquired another nicer one. Its got to go as we are making room for new equipment.
Thanks for the offer Jim, but I would not have time to assemble it. I am looking for a cheap lathe in operating condition though.

Jim, I'm not implying that other teams are not busy, or even overwhelmed. In response to one of your past comments, I am only citing a documented example of what shit gets thrown my way that I am not tooled up for, nor have experience in, and how it contributes to me having to lay down 100 hour weeks. I never made a drive shaft, or saw one being made or balanced. Yet, I will make the drive shaft, with out the proper tools. It will be balanced, and built with way more accuracy and quality craftsmanship than shafts made for us by the last 2 "drive line services", and we will make this race, no thanks to the dousche bag who dogged us.

Good job by the way, of taking advantage of a boasting opportunity. I admire that, and your shop has earned the right!:D
 
Thanks for the offer Jim, but I would not have time to assemble it. I am looking for a cheap lathe in operating condition though.

Jim, I'm not implying that other teams are not busy, or even overwhelmed. In response to one of your past comments, I am only citing a documented example of what shit gets thrown my way that I am not tooled up for, nor have experience in, and how it contributes to me having to lay down 100 hour weeks. I never made a drive shaft, or saw one being made or balanced. Yet, I will make the drive shaft, with out the proper tools. It will be balanced, and built with way more accuracy and quality craftsmanship than shafts made for us by the last 2 "drive line services", and we will make this race, no thanks to the dousche bag who dogged us.

Good job by the way, of taking advantage of a boasting opportunity. I admire that, and your shop has earned the right!:D

I just wanted to rattle you chain a little!! Yaaaa Mule!! Get the green machine done...and hurry up would ya!:D
 
SCAB FAB (conclusion)
I wanted to follow through with this drive shaft dilemma, because the welding and positioning of the ends are critical. I was able to find a piece of DOM tubing that fit the bill perfecyly. It had the same O.D. as stock, but had a 10 gauge wall thickness. The theoretical I.D. of the tubing is 1.107", the exact same size as the diameter of the nub on the end of the u joint I removed from the original drive shaft. Since the tubing came in at 1.100", I had tio use a flapper wheel on the I.D. to remove a few thousandths of an inch. My target dimension provides for an interference fit of .0015"-.002". Then, I just put the u joints in the freezer, and heat the tubing to around 225*, and the parts pressed together nicely. Once together, the temperature averaged out, and the 2 pieces were bonded together, and ready to weld. Notice the 1/8" root I left in between the 2 pieces so I can get good penetration. I lay down a flat, single pass mig with .030" E-70S-6 filler and 75/25 mig mix. Be sure the u joints on both ends are oriented identical to one another (clocking) when pressing in the 2nd joint!

I ground the weld just enough to assure consistent mass around the circumference of the joint. Since the tubing was accurate, and the nubs centered themselves, balancing will not be needed. If I has a way to do it, I would. In this case, careful fabricating protocols we're the way around it. Notice the Yamabond over the bearing caps. Never can be to safe. It's 1,200+ miles were talking about.
 

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SCAB FAB 101:

The jest of it is this:
I used my 14" chop saw, added a 2nd wheel for more consistent material removal, set up a vice and v block that I can rotate the shaft on, clamped on a shaft collar to use as a stop, and went to town. 5 hours later, I have 2 complete factory u-joints ready to weld into a new, longer tube and call it a drive shaft. I estimate another 3-4 hours to weld it into a tube, and devise a way to balance it, OR: just rely on the tube to be concentrically accurate. I'll probably resort to the latter.

Haha. I have done the same exact thing in a pinch. Used a bench grinder and a simple fixture like yours as a lathe. This is full on tool-maker quality. An engineer will design something and says it has to be made a certain way with a certain tool. In reality, the tool-maker is often the one that figures out how to overcome a $10,000 manufacturing problem with a $100 solution, making the whole project viable.
 
SCAB FAB 101 (cont'd):
I'll add text later. Just 5 more sequence shots for you all to absorb.
For those who will reply saying they too have overcome adversity, please elaborate. Tell me how you successfully used your drill motor to machine a spindle. Don't however, compare if you only worked longer hours to get 'er done. Remember, I'm already putting in 100 hour weeks right now. Without this drive shaft deal. I have no tools to do the a drive shaft, but I made do. Toot, toot! (my own horn) We'll still kick their ass in Baja. Ain't nothing getting in the way of our championship.
In a nutshell, here's the steps that I followed to separate the u-joint from the shaft to which it was welded.
The single, most important step of the process was performed in the beginning by identifying the wall thickness of the factory tubing so I knew how much material to remove without grinding into the weld-nub. If I did grind too deep, then fixturing and balancing becomes more likely. If you look closely at the first pic, you will notice some "flaking" within the ground area. That is what is left of the wall thickness of the stock tube. I simply tap the u joint with a hammer, and a crack appears (second pic). A few more firm taps with a hammer and the complete u joint pops out. Once out, I carefully hand sand with 220 grit strips of wet/dry sand paper the complete surface area of the nub until it is smooth.

The weld-in u joint is prepared and ready to freeze. After pressing both ends in place, I wrapped each joint with a wet towel, then stretch wrap around that, to keep the water from dripping into the weld puddle. Being that I used 1026 DOM tubing, there was really no need for pre or post heat treating of the weldment. After welding, it was allowed to cool in still air.

So, the point in these last few posts is to give an example of how one could maximize his fabricating abilities in house, through careful yet crude manufacturing processes, by using only the current inventory of tools on the shop floor. AND: the results need not be indicative of that fact.
 

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