All UTV's Sneak peak at the new SR1 arse kicking machines for 2013

Chicks dig green cars.

The mounting points have to be in the OEM locations, so no trailing arms. I don't think they would have any advantage anyways.
 
Put some new rubber on the Race Rig tonight.

Upped the trailer rating to load range E and 3500 lbs. I had the Fetching Mrs Lorenz's rims off her Toyota 4x4 waiting for this day. Steel silver take off from 2001. I think I'm going to black them out and run giant white vinyl reflective stars on them to be different and to match our Military theme.

Upped the truck to load range G 4540lbs 265/70/19.5 commercial tires on Rickson Wheels. Amazing Craigslist find as 265 are very hard to come bye as used take off.


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Let me know if you need help with hand control and shifting ideas, I've been looking into building one of these for a while and have a few different ideas.
 
Bring on the ideas. Do you have any drawings that you can post in this thread?
 
We scrapped the idea of reusing and welding the OEM Titanium header from the ZX10. Welding Ti proved to be non productive. It's to brittle with the equipment we have.

Does anybody have some pointers to weld Ti that don't include a clean room?
 
I'm thinking the most simple set up is to run a daily-driver hand control for the gas/brake, you can run a moto style clutch lever to override the Rekluse if you need to. I found this button shifter in the link below, you can mount the buttons on the hand controls for his thumb to tap. (there are also air shifters, if that's something you'd be interested in)

http://pingelonline.com/eshifter.htm

I liked running a gas/brake control completely separate from the foot controls, it's more work but I like it better. If you're curious, I have links to my build below.

P.S. It's for sale if you know anyone who is interested... haha

http://www.utvunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2664

http://www.utvunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11355
 
We scrapped the idea of reusing and welding the OEM Titanium header from the ZX10. Welding Ti proved to be non productive. It's to brittle with the equipment we have.

Does anybody have some pointers to weld Ti that don't include a clean room?
Probably need to build a purge setup to handle that issue with the Ti.
 
Not making it with these cars. I'll be out there in the Baja, Suzy's Teryx that is getting all of the Race car take offs, and Jerods XP. We'll manage ;)
 
This looks like it will be a good season for the regional series, i am seeing alot of new sr1 class cars being built. We are in the middle of swapping my rhino chassis right now for the GF to race..we will see if she can drive it on to the podium and not into it : )
 
Corry was warning me this weekend about the first turn wall. Something about how she's going to introduce me to it and let Jason finish me off.

We'll see, us Rookies may have to stick together...
 
LOL! Turn one is like hazing for rookies.....especially if they water it really good first! :D
 
I'm pretty stoked on the exhaust HRT fabbed up.
 

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I'm reusing the custom Benchmark Dual Muffler setup that exits behind the passenger seat. All tubes off of each cylinder are equal length and run 2 into 2. We're debating a cross over tube near the collector.

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Going over a new radiator layout tonight. The Wellers are telling me that a stock Honda Civic radiator was the cause of many of their issues early on. Going with a bigger system cured their woes.

I just hate changing things up from the existing Honda Civic setup thats already in the car because all of my existing tin will need to be redone. The tin work on my car is immaculate as it sits, I'd hate to change the tunnel setup to accommodate a bigger radiator. The stock ZX-10 radiator may be a good supplement to the existing system?

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Dual core, dual pass, $600 hit to my wallet is on order. After going over the options including using Wellers SR1 Radiator, we decided the best option was to go with a custom unit that fits like a glove.

I'm going to have to redo the tin and tunnel cooling in the car because the zx10 motor wouldn't quite fit into the existing tin work. So, if I'm incurring a bill for the tin, I may as well drop an extra $300 on a custom radiator to fit the new tin around and do it right.

Here comes the snow ball...
 

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