How will the Turbo Maverick affect UTV racing?

Where Class Should The Turbo Maverick Race In?


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That is amazing, since the regular N.A. mav already has a lag as do most UTV's. Those French Canadian engineers have done it again; broken the law...the laws of physics! Haha :)
 
That is amazing, since the regular N.A. mav already has a lag as do most UTV's. Those French Canadian engineers have done it again; broken the law...the laws of physics! Haha :)

maybe you should send ecu to evolution motorsports and they will fix that. I will let you drive one were pedal feels like the old 800 and then you flip switch and the gas pedal is not so touchy. zero lag wait tell joey finally drive it in the desert
 
Sucks about your email, I haven't had a chance to take the Maverick out yet to test everything but she's all done! I'm sourcing a business to balance the driveshaft now. I think it'd be the prudent thing to do.
Sucks about the spark plug wire. I bet Marc was livid. Why didn't brp give you guys the new clutch setup and cooling system?
It will be difficult to find a local source to balance your drive shaft. Balancing requires special fixtures to hold the yokes, and since they are miniscule in comparison to standard automotive ones, it is hard finding a shop to do it. Have you dyno'd your car before the rear diff mod? If so, is the only change that you made to the drive train the re-location of the rear diff? And finally if so, are you going to dyno it when you get it running? If all is yes, Alex and myself are dying to see the numbers;).
Important!
Make sure before final assembly, that you remove the sway bar and shocks, and cycle the the rear suspension throughout its full travel, all the while firmly holding on to the axle and plunging it in and out. It should never "tighten" up, meaning that it should always be free to plunge in and out, even if only 1/8" or less. As long as it does not lock up or bind. How much travel are you getting? What is the max deflection angle that your cv joint sees? Don't forget to loctite that P.I.T.A. bolt that secures the drive shaft yokes to the pinion and tranny out put shafts.

Can you post some pics, or PM them? I gotta see your creation. If you are anxious to drive the Mav, you know that you can do a poor mans temporary balance using hose clamps, right? If you want, let me know and I'll give you the rundown. It's a little trick I learned back in Nam!:rolleyes:

Yeah, Marc wasn't the happiest of campers. He's not used to getting passed by everybody in his class (except when we DNF), and even twice by some cars:mad: ! But a little humility will serve him well. Why didn't we get the new clutch you ask? I'd give my opinion, but I promised I would try to behave from now on:(! Cooling? What cooling system:cool:? We don't need no stinking cooling system! Here's a pic of the Mini Mav.........
 

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Does anybody out there have a pic of the clutching used on the new turbo? I'm dying to see what's changed in that area. I know. You'd think we have, but we haven't. Were like the bastard stepchild:rolleyes:.
 
I think warlock had a couple pictures of it over on Mavforums.

You'd think you guys would've been the first ones to get the new clutch and cooling system
 
I think warlock had a couple pictures of it over on Mavforums.

You'd think you guys would've been the first ones to get the new clutch and cooling system

The pictures nate showed of it looked like a regular old mav clutch but he didn't show the side with the fins. Also not sure if it runs a wider style belt either.
 
It looks like the same primary as the old one. Thanks, for nothing Frankie!:D

I went online to the BRP parts page (Duh, why didn't I think of that?), and I found 3 differences in the CVT system as a total:

http://parts.can-am.brp.com/Index.a...bqvfq3ri4&catalog_id=0&language_id=1&siteid=1



-The variator cover for the turbo model has a higher, larger area exhaust outlet for the primary, and the old style's exit down low.
-On the turbo model, there is a thin sheet metal/stamped fan blade that bolts onto the existing thread pattern on the outside face of the governor cup
-The new secondary has a different outside "hub cap" if you will. It looks like the old secondary, with a plastic bell of some sort attached to the face where the bearing race is.

Other than those listed above, I can't see much of a difference. They both run the same belt p/n, and visually, share like components. They still leave a lip on the end of the 6 pivoting fingers on the primary that control the outer sheave. Airdam Adam says that the lip only prohibits maximum upshifting.

The fan, that now gives purpose to the existing 6-M8 threads on the face of the governor cup, is a no brainer, so why didn't I think of that? I am immediately going to fab up my own style of a bolt on fan blade to help draw the hot air away from the face of the primary, and add an exhaust collar on our enclosed variator, to assist in evacuating the hot air away from the primary. That is so Captain Obvious that it isn't even funny.
 
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Is that a larger diameter header pipe? It also appears that the sheet metal frame pan below the header pipe allows for more ventilation. What's the deal with that big cone chingaderra thingy sticking out the front of the secondary? Are both of the duct collars on the variator cover for supply air?
 
Is that a larger diameter header pipe? It also appears that the sheet metal frame pan below the header pipe allows for more ventilation. What's the deal with that big cone chingaderra thingy sticking out the front of the secondary? Are both of the duct collars on the variator cover for supply air?

pretty sure the secondary is now a one piece clutch like the stm style. they moved helix to the outside. Maybe now you can install secondary without 3 hands and special dealer tools.
 
Also the sheaves on the primary are locked. I was told the secondary was a larger diameter as well. For current maverick owners I see these clutches being a reliable upgrade over all the aftermarket junk
 
Also the sheaves on the primary are locked. I was told the secondary was a larger diameter as well. For current maverick owners I see these clutches being a reliable upgrade over all the aftermarket junk
The biggest disadvantage next to the primary sheave not being locked, is the small diameter of the secondary clutch. I was told it is a full 3" smaller than Polaris' secondary. The extra leverage afforded by the larger secondary saves the belt from overworking on the bottom end, under acceleration. It reminds me of when I was racing mountain bikes as a kid. The normal average chain ring/rear cog combo for torque at that time was 26/32. I installed a 4th chain ring, and larger 1st cog sprocket for a 14/34 combo. While others resorted to portaging their bikes on steep sections, I had the option to hammer up them on the saddle.

I didn't think there was any room left below the clutches to increase the pulley diameters. Did something change on the frame directly below the CVT area on the new chassis?
 
Incorrect. The primary is locked on the turbo machine, no more slipping sheaves.

As far as the secondary diameter goes, I'm not sure. I should have mine in about 2 weeks and I can give you all the info you need.
 
I'm aware of the fact that on the new turbo cars, the primary clutch sheaves are locked. You just made that clear in your last post. I was referring to the disadvantages of the old clutch, as I see them. If BRP increases the secondary clutch diameter with out addressing the clearance beteween it and the pan, the variator cover and pulley will be vulnerable to damage from hard bottoming of the floor pan on uneven terrain. I looked at installing a larger diameter secondary pulley on our car, but the clearance between it and the floor pan would have been to small for my comfort level.
 
it can't be much bigger they almost touch each other. I don't think they changed center to center. I would say the closer the clutches are the less cooling you get so that is why there is so much attention in that area.
 
it can't be much bigger they almost touch each other. I don't think they changed center to center. I would say the closer the clutches are the less cooling you get so that is why there is so much attention in that area.
One of the advantages Polaris enjoys over Can-am in the CVT department is pulley diameter, and the distance between clutch centers. The larger secondary pulley/sheave diameter affords the clutch more leverage at the bottom end, or off the line. Add to that ,the increased distance between the primary and secondary pulleys on the Polaris, and the result is a longer drive belt. This translates to less overall belt wear and heat build per mile driven because the work being done by the longer belt, at any given point in the belt, will be less than that of a shorter belt, by the same proportions of the difference in surface area of the two belts:confused:. I know, it's a mouthful, but it's the only way I can explain it.

The jest of it is that the longer Polaris drive belts simply offers more surface area than the shorter Can-am ones. The belt is in contact with the pulleys for a shorter period of time, per mile driven, than the Can-am belts, therefore, minimizing the wear the belt sees.
 
Yeah you're right Reid. The old factory clutches on a N/A maverick are a terrible design.

I hope these new ones are the ticket. I've broke 2 QSC primary's and an STM. I'm done playing the clutch game on my personal machine.
 

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