Cost of Winning: The Monster Mav Chronicles

It looks like to me hid lights work better in dust. Led makes it a white out. I always thought that's why the Monster mav ran hid.

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HID cause the same white out especially when ran up top.

FWIW Warlock, I worked in the lighting industry for 12 years before I launched UTVUnderground... Not that it matters but I can debate lighting, lumens, foot candles and beam spread all day. HID, way more punch still, but LED is more efficient, has better color rendition and a more even beam spread. And the mint 400 is hardly a night race. Andy had that race won before a light was ever really needed.

To each his own, I loved HID, but I'm not willing to run an alternator on my UTV either, nor am I racing or driving all that much at night. Then again you and your crew are probably wayyyy faster at night and need them for your super duper 50mph dune runs lol I kid I kid. All fun.

Sorry Reid.
 
Based on your track record Hans, I'd say that the LED's are working just fine for you! It humbles me a bit to see that you are following my thread. Thanks for your support.

This is my favorite kind of thread Reid! I fix cars for a living but I really wish I could fabricate and build my own race cars. I appreciate your willingness to show us how you build and repair your race car and I read every line and check every picture.

And yes, I did just call UTV's a car.lol
 
This is my favorite kind of thread Reid! I fix cars for a living but I really wish I could fabricate and build my own race cars. I appreciate your willingness to show us how you build and repair your race car and I read every line and check every picture.

And yes, I did just call UTV's a car.lol

Yeah I think its Ok to call them cars now. Being as they have 4 wheels on the ground and a steering wheel and a couple of seats and seat belts. LOL But its Ok cause this here is a Real Build Thread. The Most Real Build Thread Ever over hear if ya Asked me.:cool:
 
Yeah I think its Ok to call them cars now. Being as they have 4 wheels on the ground and a steering wheel and a couple of seats and seat belts. LOL But its Ok cause this here is a Real Build Thread. The Most Real Build Thread Ever over hear if ya Asked me.:cool:

Yes, Reid took a UTV and built it into a race car. From the front steer conversion to the rear diff relocation and much improved shock geometry it reminds me of my Dragonfire built Teryx.
 
Home Made Press Brake:
In order to be able to fab one-off items, and keep as much work in house that is practical, I make up these handy dies as needed to fit in my "H" frame bottle jack press out of scrap metal that I find laying around the shop. It has up to a 10 ton capacity, which means that I can bend a 1 1/4" flange on 3/16" thick mild steel plate at 18" long. Or, a 3/4" flange in 10 gauge mild steel also at 18". The image attached is a sample of a bend. The material is 14 gauge mild steel, and the flange is 3/4" wide. No sweat!
 

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Would that be considered redneck engineering? Or just thinking outside of the box and getting chit done?


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Would that be considered redneck engineering? Or just thinking outside of the box and getting chit done?


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It's my brain on Budweiser;). I don't trust sending out close tolerance parts for roll bending. They mess it up, I pay. I lose the time. I work through midnight!! F that! So, I figured out a way to do it in house.
 
In preparation for re installing the rebuilt motor, I came across the source of our silt leaking into the engine misfortune at the 500. Yes, another engine swap for this old man. So, when we started the car friday morning on contingency day, the engine had a big lag when stepping on the gas pedal. I had one of the guys who was helping us replace the throttle body, and when he re installed it, he lamed on the rubber gasket between the intake plenum and the throttle body. Only got half of it in the groove, and the other half was just mashed between the two surfaces. I hate it when I am too busy to do everything by myself. Never again. I'll work 25 hours a day next time, if that is what is necessary to avoid these incompetencies.
 

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Man that really sucks! Pardon the pun. I hate being rushed working on anything. I think the root of the whole issue was the shipping company dropping the engine that seized during the shakedown. If that engine wouldn't have blown up, you wouldn't have been rushed to put the backup in.


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Dropping the rebuilt motor in tonite with a new tranny w/higher gearing. We're hoping it will bring the rpm's down a bit at the top end. That is where most of the gremlins in our clutch hang out. At speed! If we can reliably maintain 70 mph, watch out.

Oh, got bad news for the Monster Mav. The new shocks Fox is building for our car most likely wont be ready for the V2R race:(. Looks like Schlomaris may be getting off easy on this one, but we'll still show, run as hard and smart as we can, and let the chips fall where they may. It will be a good testing ground though for a couple of things we want to try out for the 1000.
 
Dropping the rebuilt motor in tonite with a new tranny w/higher gearing. We're hoping it will bring the rpm's down a bit at the top end. That is where most of the gremlins in our clutch hang out. At speed! If we can reliably maintain 70 mph, watch out.

Oh, got bad news for the Monster Mav. The new shocks Fox is building for our car most likely wont be ready for the V2R race:(. Looks like Schlomaris may be getting off easy on this one, but we'll still show, run as hard and smart as we can, and let the chips fall where they may. It will be a good testing ground though for a couple of things we want to try out for the 1000.

I tried taller gears motor wouldn't pull it on a rzr, what worked was lower gears helped to put more weight in clutch.
 
Here is what I am doing to manage the CVT temperature in the Monster Mav. Primary clutch relies on the stock inner finned sheave sucking in outside air from under the dash board. That air is evacuated mechanically with a 135 CFM duct fan attached to the tail end of the factory primary exhaust duct. At the front end of said duct, I mounted the sending unit for the belt temp gauge, right where the rubber horseshoe snorkel attaches to the plastic exhaust duct.

On the secondary clutch, I added a 135 CFM duct fan that mounts behind the drivers seat (outside the cockpit) and blows air onto the front of the secondary clutch via a collar that I cut into the CVT cover. That air is exhausted through positive pressure out the factory secondary exhaust duct.
 

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where did you get that secondary ducting?
It is 3" flex tubing, and we got it from an industrial supply house here in San Diego. I recommend that you run 3" x 1/32" aluminum tubing due to the smooth interior wall. The corrugated ducting adds static pressure and robs efficiency from an already undersized duct fan.
 
The 210cfm is a good option , and for extreme purpose one on the primary.
 

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