Cost of Winning: The Monster Mav Chronicles

[Tzenev]

I was looking at the 4" model of this. It's what I have under my dash right now. http://www.westmarine.com/buy/rule-industries--waterproof-in-line-blowers--P012_362_001_002


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[badassmav]

If you have the room, this is the most efficient, highest output blower I've found. I am getting 2 for the Monster Mav. At 247/280 CFM, it is twice as powerful than the bilge blowers that marine stores sell. Some desirable features this blower has that the others do not, is its high resistance to heat. 340 degrees worth! It also has 5 speeds which comes in handy when you do not run an alternator and are racing at night time. You can slow down the speed, and reduce the amperage draw as not to take the needed power away from your lighting. The rating takes under consideration static pressure, which the others do not. This means that if you have corners that the duct needs to turn on its path to your CVT, the blower will have the power to maintain the rated flow.

 

[Tzenev]

I like the sounds of that. What brand is it? I'd like to get 2 to replace my current one and add one to blow on to my secondary.


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[Zakka]

Mine is the ' Attwood Turbo 4000 '. Filtering the cvt air is paramount IMO.


From ' The Land Down Under ' .

 

[Zakka]

Have not checked current draw, I leave it running 10 mins after every race with stock batt and no probs.


From ' The Land Down Under ' .

 

[Tzenev]

Have not checked current draw, I leave it running 10 mins after every race with stock batt and no probs.


From ' The Land Down Under ' .

I do the same. When I get back from a ride I let it run for awhile and have never had battery issues.


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[Zakka]

If you have the room, this is the most efficient, highest output blower I've found. I am getting 2 for the Monster Mav. At 247/280 CFM, it is twice as powerful than the bilge blowers that marine stores sell. Some desirable features this blower has that the others do not, is its high resistance to heat. 340 degrees worth! It also has 5 speeds which comes in handy when you do not run an alternator and are racing at night time. You can slow down the speed, and reduce the amperage draw as not to take the needed power away from your lighting. The rating takes under consideration static pressure, which the others do not. This means that if you have corners that the duct needs to turn on its path to your CVT, the blower will have the power to maintain the rated flow.

That's the shit right there


From ' The Land Down Under ' .

 

[badassmav]

I like the sounds of that. What brand is it? I'd like to get 2 to replace my current one and add one to blow on to my secondary.


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Here's a link to the web page:
http://www.suzukaracing.com/1 Blower.html
They are Nascar brake blowers. Be ready though. They're probably going to cost upwards of $150.00 a piece. You get what you pay for, as they say. Rousch/Yates are selling their used blowers for a steal also. They wont have all of the features that the other one above has. Unless you go with one of the performance, name brand blowers, the most CFM you can expect to find in a 12 volt model is 240 CFM. Here's a link for Rousch/Yates:
http://www.roushyatesparts.com/used-brake-fan-p/jru-00361.htm
If you are running the stock primary clutch on a Maverick, do not put a blower in the primary intake duct (the one that gets the air from the left, outside body work, and runs behind the dash) unless you run a "Y" fitting, so the original duct still has an open shot, and is not interrupted. It will impede the performance of the primary clutch drawing the air in.

 

[Tzenev]

I'm a firm believe in you get what you pay for. In need to get a y fitting for it.


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[badassmav]

I'm a firm believe in you get what you pay for. In need to get a y fitting for it.


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We ran a 3" blower in front of the primary at first, but since learned that once you pass 2700 rpm's or so, the blower pushes less air than the primary clutch sucks. That's why the "Y" recommendation. If you don't yet have a blower on the backside of the primary, thats where you need to put one. With the primary drawing in unrestricted ambient air, and the duct fan sucking the hot air out the back, it's like you opened up the front and back door to your house, and the breeze passes on through!

 

[Tzenev]

We ran a 3" blower in front of the primary at first, but since learned that once you pass 2700 rpm's or so, the blower pushes less air than the primary clutch sucks. That's why the "Y" recommendation. If you don't yet have a blower on the backside of the primary, thats where you need to put one. With the primary drawing in unrestricted ambient air, and the duct fan sucking the hot air out the back, it's like you opened up the front and back door to your house, and the breeze passes on through!

When you say on the back side of the primary are you taking about the inlet on the clutch over itself?


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[badassmav]

When you say on the back side of the primary are you taking about the inlet on the clutch over itself?


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No. The blower mounts under the fuel cell in the rear of the car. It is attached to the factory exhaust duct for the primary clutch. The duct that starts behind the primary clutch, and runs just under the shift lever.

 

[Tzenev]

Ok so you are pulling air out. I misread that part. I will have to move mine to the exhaust duct.


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[badassmav]

Spare Parts:
O.k., so how many spare parts does a team need? Better yet, how many spare parts does one use? Marc is obsessed with being prepared, and a big part of being prepared is having spare parts. I already touched earlier in this thread about what he carries on the car during a race, and I will elaborate on it here, as well as the spare parts inventory we keep here in the shop, and bring to the races as well.

The Car:
During a race, we carry the following items onboard the race car:
6 separate tool bags, 1 electrical bag, a comprehensive first aid kit, a 25' toe strap, a shovel, spare tire, an impact gun w/extra battery, a spare axle w/cv joints attached, a modified bottle jack, spare primary clutch, custom jumper cables, 3 drive belts, 2 extra alternator belts, a spare ECU module, and a set of plastic ramps. Total weight of arsenal is just under 200 lbs.

Chase Truck(s):
For the Baja 1000, we will be carrying in 4 different chase trucks the following; 6 brake rotors w/hubs attached, 4 brake calipers, 4 front and 4 rear axles w/cv's attached, 2 front spindles, 4 rear uprights, 2 front tie rods, 2 rear radius rods, Wicked power steering unit, steering rack, 8 new spare tires mounted on omf wheels, spare motor w/tranny attached, x-tra transmission, front and rear differentials, front and rear drive shafts, 3 complete clutches, 2 front and 2 rear coilover shocks ready to bolt on, 3 air filters, sway bar, xtra lower a arms, hella lights, complete set of brake lines, extra radiator lines and braided hoses, race battery, a complete set of Factory UTV skid plates (6 pcs.), no less than 5 drive belts, and all the supporting hardware and fluids needed to service any and all systems on the car.

Have we ever used any of the forementioned spare parts during a race? With the exception of clutches, drive belts, and tires, NO!
The car is amazingly resilient, and has yet not to finish a race as a result of a broken component, except the motor. Twice.

So, are all these parts and tools necessray to race? So far, not yet. The only time they will be needed is the time that they are left behind! It's just the way it works.

 

[megadesertdiesel]

damn, you are a real boyscout.

 

[badassmav]

damn, you are a real boyscout.

Nah, it's just the stuff us "Old Men" accumulate over the years!!

 

[tatum]

I believe you are not allowed to change a motor during the race.

 

[Blue Coyote]

My .02 on bottle jacks & hydraulic jacks in general. Learned this with our old 7s truck.
All the movement from racing would cause the hydraulic fluid to foam - making it worthless. Swapped to Toyota screw type bottle jack - same weigh, works in any position, never leaks, and always works.

Chase truck totes - we used grey plastic totes to carry everything. Each tote was assigned a #, and the lid had the corresponding # and a list written with a Sharpie of what is in each tote. Makes it easier ti find stuff in a hurry.

Other stuff to consider :
Nitrile gloves in car & chase box
LED light you can wear on your head.


NorthWestOffroad.net
Racing- Adventure - Fun
Maverick XRS

 

[badassmav]

So, I should be ready to fire up the motor by days end tomorrow. Yay! I will get the pieces for my a arms that I sent out for cnc cutting back on Monday. I am building from scratch 3 new lower arms, and repairing 1 lower arm. I finished the welding jigs for fixturing the arms last week, and I'll have a days worth of work to fab and form all of the pieces for the arms. It is a strong week to weld up the arms, install them on the car, and perform a 4 wheel alignment. That leaves me 1 week to final assemble and race prep the car for a test date hopefully on Monday the 11th, but it will most likely be on Tuesday that the car is race ready. We are tuning clutches, and setting up our new shocks at the test. We try to make it a point NEVER to test the car if it isn't 100% race ready. What good does it do, if after testing, we work on the car again, and don't re-test?

It is still not 100% that we will have our new 3.0 badass shocks done by then, but we'll cross our fingers and hope for the best. The Monster Mav is in dire need of some more bump travel management at the rear. I'm sure that I'll show up at the V2R race with less than 75% confidence that the car is truly race ready. Hell, when I arrived at the Baja 500 last month, I was more than 75% sure that I was forgetting something important on the car.

I learned from my brother to take down disassembly notes when tearing the car down after each race. That is when you need to be on your toes, and be able to justify every cracked or torn apart weld. Any wet spots of drips on the frame, ground, or elsewhere needs to be assessed at that time, as to facilitate a complete and thorough reassembly and prep for the next race. This time around, I went right into damage control, as it was obvious there were weeks of repairs ahead.

 

[mearsman]

Are you still on schedule? How'd today go?