Reliability of streetbike powered rhinos?

alreadygone

New Member
Iv been seeing alot of these streetbike powered rhinos for sale etc, and im very interested in purchasing one.

how driveable are these cars? are they reliable? do they require more work than an efi lt rhino? i ride in the az desert, and some small trails here in CA.

was wondering if i could get some input. also are rpm boxes solid?
 
Iv been seeing alot of these streetbike powered rhinos for sale etc, and im very interested in purchasing one.

how driveable are these cars? are they reliable? do they require more work than an efi lt rhino? i ride in the az desert, and some small trails here in CA.

was wondering if i could get some input. also are rpm boxes solid?

BUMP! I am interested to here other members input.
Might be swappin'-out my rhino's powerplant here soon. :rolleyes:

The only thing I have heard on Street bike powered UTVs are the chains going out after a while.
 
all that i can say is that mine has been more reliable than my 700 efi. I have the original chain on and i have logged 10 dune weekends and probably 2000 miles. if your going to do it, do it right and buy all the right heavy duty suspension that you can, ie: spindles, steering racks, ties rods, shocks etc. also make sure whoever installs it they take the time and hook everything up properly. my ride could possiby for sale for the right price.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0665.JPG
    IMG_0665.JPG
    480.6 KB · Views: 98
  • IMG_0663.JPG
    IMG_0663.JPG
    497.4 KB · Views: 94
  • IMG_0668.JPG
    484 KB · Views: 105
  • IMG_0664.JPG
    IMG_0664.JPG
    584.7 KB · Views: 106
all that i can say is that mine has been more reliable than my 700 efi. I have the original chain on and i have logged 10 dune weekends and probably 2000 miles. if your going to do it, do it right and buy all the right heavy duty suspension that you can, ie: spindles, steering racks, ties rods, shocks etc. also make sure whoever installs it they take the time and hook everything up properly. my ride could possiby for sale for the right price.

so besides suspension components. going faster would mean more stress on components. i see why you would need to upgrade stuff like that..

but as far as the swap. your not having problems with the streetbike motor etc?

the car im looking at has a FNR rear end and a kawi motor. i just wonder if im buying a maintenence queen if i go street bike rhino.

also whats the driveability of your ride? i mostly run desert type trails with rocky hills etc. i rarely dune.
 
i would recommend going with a kit that is readily available like a weller kit. If you break something on a one off kit you will have to custom make whatever you break. You break something on a weller kit and you call them and one is in the mail same day. I have had my r1 for sometime now and it has been great, i have raced it 3 times and been to the dunes 5 weekend this year alone with no problems (except my wiring harness bumped my exhaust and melted) but that was my fault. If you use all of the right parts (ones that are race and dune proven) like weller's, you will be better off. They make a kit for an sv1000 , an R1, and i think maybe some others. Also, with the gear boxes, my dad has an rpm in a hayabusa car and we blew the gears straight out of the case, however we got it up dated with a 3rd bearing for support on the sprocket shaft and had no problems since. I have heard that some people have had problems with chains when they are forced to use a short chain with the gear boxes or when the motor is put in sideways like darkside fabrications does. (nothing against darkside, that is just what i have heard)

Hope this helps
 
i would say the motors hold up pretty well. a little gas hungy but not too bad. damn things rev to 14k which sound like they will come flying through your panels but take the beating.

here are my findings, hope it helps.

i bought an 05 R1 motor with 4k miles off ebay with wiring harness for $1400 when i first built my car and it ran fine untill i drove it out of the garage, then a crank bearing went out and seized the motor on it first run. my bad for buying off ebay i guess. when reasearching the problem i was told that too many over revs on these motors will stress the bearings and they will eventually fail. i dont know how to make sure you dont buy one that has not been over reved.

i was quoted close to $1100 to fix my motor and decided to find another motor instead. i found one completely disassenbled on a forum for $400 and decided i needed to learn how these motors work and do the assembling myself.

after $300 in gaskets, rings, and new plugs and countless hours of assembly i had a good running motor. damn valve to cam clearance is a pita but not impossible. i had never rebuilt any small motor before and it was great experiance, plus saved me tons of money.

then i decided to make an adapter for a car alternator for these motors. well my prototype adapter that i bolted to the end of the crank backed off and let the lower timming gear skip and all 20 valves hit the tops of my pistons and bent.

so i took the head to a shop to see about new valves, guides and seats. well at $900 to rebuild i decided again to find another motor. so i found a head in near perfect condition on another forum for $250. i bolted it up and she has been running for 4 hard dune trip with no issues at all.

so in short i would say these motors are fairly inexpensive to buy whole but not cheap to repair. basically toss the motor instead of rebuilding.
 
the engines themselves are super reliable. We raced ours hard throughout the entire 2010 LOORRS series, and the only thing we did to the motor was change the clutch once, and the oil and filter a few times. Plus, the car went end over end a few times, and always fired right up afterwards. And in race conditions, we are running the motors pretty much wide open for 20 to 30 minutes at a time.

The Weller kit is the most economical way to do it, and super strong, but the main disadvantage is you loose revese, and the gearing is pretty tall. Tall as in the car really doesn't like to go slower than 15 miles per hour. You can always get a bigger rear sproket, but to my knowledge, nobody makes one in steel. Just aluminum, and the aluminum won't get you through a full season of hard use. So you are going to loose any low speed drivability. (reverse can be added but will require some fabing with an electric starter motor etc) The SV1000 engines have more slow speed drivability because they have more power on the bottom end, vs an R1 motor. Plus, they are an easier fit into a stock rhino, as they are narrow, and don't require any mods to the seats frames and such.

If you go with a gearbox set up, they will have more drivability. But you want to run the largest sprockets you can to the box, because the smaller they are, the more heat is generated, and you will have problems keeping the chain cool, and lasting a long time.

Its hard to say if what you get will be like a can or worms, because that really boils down to who did the install. If its done properly, it will be super reliable, and you will have zero issues. But if it was kinda hacked together by someone that didn't really know what they were doing, it could be problems.

Good luck!
 
as for reverse i kinda miss it for backing out of the garage. on concrete and asphalt these cars do not want to turn with a solid rear end. but dunning i just plan a little when stopping. just think most quads do not have reverse, yes they are lighter to push but most dont.

for the gearring the weller steel sproket is sized to not stick below the framerail to protect it. the gearring is very tall like Greg said. i was dunning at 45mph in 2nd gear mostly. i had a 68 tooth rear aluminum sproket made for $125. and love the lower gearring. yes it sticks below my frame by 1.5" soi had to make a skid plate for it. i have almost one season of dunning and a trip to the cinders with no noticable wear on it. but at $125 a sproket if i had to buy one a season it would not break the bank.

reverse adds alot of weight and money to a build. its nice but at a cost. people always talk about using a car starter but i have never seen one.
 
I have seen the car starter on a small sand car, short sand cars or some brand like that. I wouldn't trust it for much more than backing off of a trailer. Just my opinion though
 
We custom built our R1 cars using a TomPro reverse box. So far I am extremely happy I went this direction. The fun factor is thru the roof and I am not worried about having to work on it after every trip. Unfortunatly I dont have a lot of time on it yet but the time I do have has been well worth my investment.

One more thing Ill add. If you are buying one already built....take a good time studying who the builder was. take a close look at the car from top to bottom. I have seen a TON of hack jobs out there for sale that I have never seen in use. If you buy one then end up having to rebuild it that would suck.

2011-02-05_11-08-02_564.jpg
 
i would say the motors hold up pretty well. a little gas hungy but not too bad. damn things rev to 14k which sound like they will come flying through your panels but take the beating.

here are my findings, hope it helps.

i bought an 05 R1 motor with 4k miles off ebay with wiring harness for $1400 when i first built my car and it ran fine untill i drove it out of the garage, then a crank bearing went out and seized the motor on it first run. my bad for buying off ebay i guess. when reasearching the problem i was told that too many over revs on these motors will stress the bearings and they will eventually fail. i dont know how to make sure you dont buy one that has not been over reved.

i was quoted close to $1100 to fix my motor and decided to find another motor instead. i found one completely disassenbled on a forum for $400 and decided i needed to learn how these motors work and do the assembling myself.

after $300 in gaskets, rings, and new plugs and countless hours of assembly i had a good running motor. damn valve to cam clearance is a pita but not impossible. i had never rebuilt any small motor before and it was great experiance, plus saved me tons of money.

then i decided to make an adapter for a car alternator for these motors. well my prototype adapter that i bolted to the end of the crank backed off and let the lower timming gear skip and all 20 valves hit the tops of my pistons and bent.

so i took the head to a shop to see about new valves, guides and seats. well at $900 to rebuild i decided again to find another motor. so i found a head in near perfect condition on another forum for $250. i bolted it up and she has been running for 4 hard dune trip with no issues at all.

so in short i would say these motors are fairly inexpensive to buy whole but not cheap to repair. basically toss the motor instead of rebuilding.


thanks for the response. when you mention "over rev" are you talking about motors that have been ran up untill redline or beyond? i thought street bike motors were made rev out??

the ride im looking at has a 05 zx10r motor and a jeffco rear end.odometer reading is at 2500miles.

the engines themselves are super reliable. We raced ours hard throughout the entire 2010 LOORRS series, and the only thing we did to the motor was change the clutch once, and the oil and filter a few times. Plus, the car went end over end a few times, and always fired right up afterwards. And in race conditions, we are running the motors pretty much wide open for 20 to 30 minutes at a time.

The Weller kit is the most economical way to do it, and super strong, but the main disadvantage is you loose revese, and the gearing is pretty tall. Tall as in the car really doesn't like to go slower than 15 miles per hour. You can always get a bigger rear sproket, but to my knowledge, nobody makes one in steel. Just aluminum, and the aluminum won't get you through a full season of hard use. So you are going to loose any low speed drivability. (reverse can be added but will require some fabing with an electric starter motor etc) The SV1000 engines have more slow speed drivability because they have more power on the bottom end, vs an R1 motor. Plus, they are an easier fit into a stock rhino, as they are narrow, and don't require any mods to the seats frames and such.

If you go with a gearbox set up, they will have more drivability. But you want to run the largest sprockets you can to the box, because the smaller they are, the more heat is generated, and you will have problems keeping the chain cool, and lasting a long time.

Its hard to say if what you get will be like a can or worms, because that really boils down to who did the install. If its done properly, it will be super reliable, and you will have zero issues. But if it was kinda hacked together by someone that didn't really know what they were doing, it could be problems.

Good luck!

thanks for the response! iv been reading up on lonestar stuff you guys make some killer suspension setups!

so you dont think the extra stress put on a streetbike motor from offroading would effect it? doesnt seem like it would in your situation.

We custom built our R1 cars using a TomPro reverse box. So far I am extremely happy I went this direction. The fun factor is thru the roof and I am not worried about having to work on it after every trip. Unfortunatly I dont have a lot of time on it yet but the time I do have has been well worth my investment.

One more thing Ill add. If you are buying one already built....take a good time studying who the builder was. take a close look at the car from top to bottom. I have seen a TON of hack jobs out there for sale that I have never seen in use. If you buy one then end up having to rebuild it that would suck.

2011-02-05_11-08-02_564.jpg


what should i look for when buying a used streetbike swapped ride??
 
Pay attention to the gear box/engine placement...If they are close together there is a possibility to have chain issues. One thing for me that always an indicator of a "hack job" is bad welds...look at the welds on the car. If you see a bunch of bubble gum nasty welds you can bet you are dealing with an amature. Get a picture of the car and post it up on forums.....if it has been in the dunes people will have seen it and know if its good/bad/or ugly. Use you best Judgement. Its not necessarly any differnt from buying any other offroad vehicle...We are a pretty small comunity and it seems like everyone knows someone thats knows someone. Good Luck!
 
i have built a r1 rhino and used a rpm gear box which has held up great so far. the first build i did i had a short chain and adjusted it by some tie rod like bars i fabed it was a pain in the ass to adjust and would cook the chain after consecutive abuse on a dune weekend... so i came up with a new design with twice as long of chain and a idler sprocket on the top side which worked better but not good enuff for me. so after owning my r1 rhino for 4 year 's i have come up with my third design which i totally re built the whole car and came up with a good design... my chain temp is no where close to what it was...
as far as drive ability its in the gearing 5.5:1 is a good ratio for all around driving. i love my rhino and have a blast every time i drive it! it is now low maintence and reliable as a stock one...

thats my knowledge of r1 rhino's
 
!

Pay attention to the gear box/engine placement...If they are close together there is a possibility to have chain issues. One thing for me that always an indicator of a "hack job" is bad welds...look at the welds on the car. If you see a bunch of bubble gum nasty welds you can bet you are dealing with an amature. Get a picture of the car and post it up on forums.....if it has been in the dunes people will have seen it and know if its good/bad/or ugly. Use you best Judgement. Its not necessarly any differnt from buying any other offroad vehicle...We are a pretty small comunity and it seems like everyone knows someone thats knows someone. Good Luck!

thanks for the tip

the ride im looking at is the one listed on glamis dunes. the blue swing arm one.

i have built a r1 rhino and used a rpm gear box which has held up great so far. the first build i did i had a short chain and adjusted it by some tie rod like bars i fabed it was a pain in the ass to adjust and would cook the chain after consecutive abuse on a dune weekend... so i came up with a new design with twice as long of chain and a idler sprocket on the top side which worked better but not good enuff for me. so after owning my r1 rhino for 4 year 's i have come up with my third design which i totally re built the whole car and came up with a good design... my chain temp is no where close to what it was...
as far as drive ability its in the gearing 5.5:1 is a good ratio for all around driving. i love my rhino and have a blast every time i drive it! it is now low maintence and reliable as a stock one...

thats my knowledge of r1 rhino's
 

Attachments

  • rhino 3.bmp
    852.2 KB · Views: 33
also was wondering, what the driveability of these swapped rides are they only good for sand and flat desert? or can it still climb rocky desert steep type stuff??
 
maybe i can help.. Iv been in contact with the seller also.

id also like to get the opinion the the setup. here is a picture the seller sent me.
 

Attachments

  • P1020986 (Large).JPG
    P1020986 (Large).JPG
    388.6 KB · Views: 70
here is a pic of the length of my chain.
his maybe fine it looks ok from the pic gear ratio in the box i think also contributes to the heat
gearboxfinnished.jpg
 
Thanks for posting a picture. Your chain is a lot longer than some of the other swaps iv seen with the diff box. Very cool swap. What kind of terrain do you drive on? Are you still able to climb rutted rocky inclines??
 
I have the Weller rear carrier R1 setup (really high gearing), and I was actually pretty surprised how well it did on the slower rocky hilled trails. That being said, I think if I stalled it, Id have to roll backwards to the bottom and try it again. Wouldnt want to try and start from a stop going up hill. Pretty touchy clutch..

If you really want to retain your slow speed cruising, I would look at the SV1000 V-twin, rather than the R1. It has better low end torque and will make slow speed stuff much more enjoyable. The Weller SR1 setup doesnt really like being under 15mph.

but as soon as you get that R1 into the rev range, it makes up for everything else. Ridiculous fun in the desert!!
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
17,313
Messages
179,416
Members
12,154
Latest member
KpALMA
Back
Top