Yamaha R1 Rhino build up

[LSRGreg]

Yeah, your probably going to end up having to widen the rack mounting points, bringing them out closer to the a-arm pivot points. Also, if you can avoid it, its better to run a straight tie rod, as once its bent, it will want to bend easier than a straight one.. just fyi..

G-

 

[marc177s]

Yeah, your probably going to end up having to widen the rack mounting points, bringing them out closer to the a-arm pivot points. Also, if you can avoid it, its better to run a straight tie rod, as once its bent, it will want to bend easier than a straight one.. just fyi..

G-

Yep, I learned that after many trips in the Jeep. Unfortunately it was the only way to get the tie rod geometry even close. I can gusset the bend though. If I wind up getting another rack I'll replace the tie rods at the same time.

 

[megadesertdiesel]

double sheer at the spindle if you can.

 

[marc177s]

double sheer at the spindle if you can.

Easy enough. I may have to use like 1/4" instead of 1/2" but I'll do that. Thanks for the idea!

 

[OFFROADSWAPMEET]

I cant wait to see this SR1 in action!

 

[marc177s]

Added the double shear to the spindle tonight. I made up a jig for the control arms today, so tomorrow I'll start on the other side.

 

[tnez10]

Here's a pic I took of his build yesterday...Looking good.

He's also doing my R1 swap. Two R1 builds at the same time, The guys an animal!

 

[marc177s]

Finished off the front control arms, hubs, and spindles today. Still haven't ordered shocks. Got my wheels coming instead. I'm just using stock mock up wheels now. I'm getting a full 18" of travel without bump stops and straps.
I got the bump steer issue worked out by fabing up mounting plates for the steering rack which will extend my mounting points for the tie rods. Next I'll start on the rack and tie rods.
Hopefully I'll have the rear hubs done and mounted by the end of the week.

Here's the car at full compression.

Picture showing the articulation.

 

[BiggJim]

Finished off the front control arms, hubs, and spindles today. Still haven't ordered shocks. Got my wheels coming instead. I'm just using stock mock up wheels now. I'm getting a full 18" of travel without bump stops and straps.
I got the bump steer issue worked out by fabing up mounting plates for the steering rack which will extend my mounting points for the tie rods. Next I'll start on the rack and tie rods.
Hopefully I'll have the rear hubs done and mounted by the end of the week.

Here's the car at full compression.

Picture showing the articulation.

Doesnt look like you are leaving yourself any clearence at full bump.

 

[marc177s]

Where at Jim? If you mean at the front down tubes on the cage, there really is plenty of clearance at the whole range. If you mean at the body, the hood is just sitting on top of the frame. It's not mounted yet.

 

[Wild Earp]

Doesnt look like you are leaving yourself any clearence at full bump.

X2!! Youll want 2-3" under the frame all full bump. Trust me, you dont want that frame smacking the ground on a hard landing. Better to have your shocks bottom, and the brunt of the impact absorb into your tires, rather than your spine.

And dont think for a second youll get anywhere near that travel number in the rear with Type 2 cvs!

Builds look great though! Real interested to hear how the electric reverse works out for you. Thanks for sharing all the pics

 

[marc177s]

X2!! Youll want 2-3" under the frame all full bump. Trust me, you dont want that frame smacking the ground on a hard landing. Better to have your shocks bottom, and the brunt of the impact absorb into your tires, rather than your spine.

And dont think for a second youll get anywhere near that travel number in the rear with Type 2 cvs!

Builds look great though! Real interested to hear how the electric reverse works out for you. Thanks for sharing all the pics

Thanks for the input guys. I'm actually at 4 1/2" under the frame at full bump. May not look like it in the photo's, but I double checked this morning.
I'm not using Type 2 CV's. I'll be using 930's. Not sure what I'll get out of those but I should be ok. I should get the full 18" with the 930's. Supposedly the max angle allowed with 930's is 30 deg... At full sag I'll be at 30.65 deg.
Like I said, the bump stops aren't in and the limiter straps aren't in either. So those will tighten it up for sure. I am hoping for 16 - 17" though when everything is in place.
This photo shows the clearance a little better (even though it's hard to read the tape).

 

[tatum]

You can go to 24 degrees safely with the 930 cvs.Some people run more but it is pushing it.

 

[Wild Earp]

From what Ive read on 930s, I think safe would be 22*, pushing it to 24* only with fully race prepped CVs. Some people get more with custom tweaks to the internals, but even then, at a loss of reliability/longevity.

We run the Offroad Type 2s in the Weller kit to 24*, just barely. I get 14"ish of travel at that angle, with 2" at full bump.

What are you using for rear hubs? Youll for sure need some sort of centerboard setup to get even 14" of travel.

 

[BiggJim]

From what Ive read on 930s, I think safe would be 22*, pushing it to 24* only with fully race prepped CVs. Some people get more with custom tweaks to the internals, but even then, at a loss of reliability/longevity.

We run the Offroad Type 2s in the Weller kit to 24*, just barely. I get 14"ish of travel at that angle, with 2" at full bump.

What are you using for rear hubs? Youll for sure need some sort of centerboard setup to get even 14" of travel.

The type 2 weller cvs do just barley get 24*s....We had our suspension set up at 24.5*s and ended up having to strap the rear of ours...so I may have lost an inch of droop

 

[marc177s]

I'm fabing up my own hubs. I mocked up the rear suspension with the axles and I was pretty disappointed in the rear travel. I'll probably be getting around 14" with 26*.
I'm happy with the front travel but not the back.
I may decide against LOORRS and stick with a desert car since that's what I'll be doing 90% of the time anyway.
I'll have to think on this one and see what I come up with this weekend.
Once I get the rear hubs and control arms finished I'll get a better idea of where I'm going with this.

I just read this on another forum. I wonder how true this is. I may have to check into this.

"RCV Performance will make you some front wheel drive CV plunging axle half shafts for less than you would think. Mine cost $435 per side - complete. Max angle is 40* or more".

 

[ZTFab]

He's also doing my R1 swap. Two R1 builds at the same time, The guys an animal!

Hey, I know that car!!!

Glad to see it finally getting some horsepower!!!

 

[tatum]

From what Ive read on 930s, I think safe would be 22*, pushing it to 24* only with fully race prepped CVs. Some people get more with custom tweaks to the internals, but even then, at a loss of reliability/longevity.

We run the Offroad Type 2s in the Weller kit to 24*, just barely. I get 14"ish of travel at that angle, with 2" at full bump.

What are you using for rear hubs? Youll for sure need some sort of centerboard setup to get even 14" of travel.

I run 24.5 degrees on my long travel buggy with no issues at all.I do run race cages for strength,but I am running 500 hp.

 

[ryno93]

Sorry to get off topic but what are the demension(width, height) of the r1 motor? I've looked everywhere on the internet and can't seem to find them. I'm planning on doing the swap just i wanna know how much more room the motor takes up, thanks.

 

[marc177s]

Sorry to get off topic but what are the demension(width, height) of the r1 motor? I've looked everywhere on the internet and can't seem to find them. I'm planning on doing the swap just i wanna know how much more room the motor takes up, thanks.

Here's the approx. measurements of mine. I just eyeballed it with a tape since there's so much stuff in the way right now.
I'm using an '03 motor. Other years are a little different.
Top to frame to the top of the throttle bodies 19" (not including the air box), side case to side is case approx. 22" wide, front of the valve cover (not headers) to the center of the rear diff. is approx. 30" if your using a Weller engine mount.
Hope this helps.