Project SDR1

Wild Earp

50Fifty Racer - UTVUnderground Approved
Nice, a SR1 forum!

Im going to start documenting my build, Project SDR1, soon. Converting my the SDR Motorsports, Lucas Oil Race Rhino for the new SR1 class. Ive got a 05 R1 on the way, along with a deposit on one of the first Weller Racing SR1 kits.

Heres stage 1, the tear down:
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Sorry about the bad picture, just from my iphone.

I pulled the 686 race motor and sold it. Also gone is the rear diff. Im starting to post up the rest of my parts now. As soon as I get my SR1 kit, Ill start cutting out the pan and fitting everything.

Also plan on getting done at the same time: Adding power steering and custom SDR rear a-arms and 10" shocks, swapping out the rear mount 12 Gal Jaz for a front mount 4 gal.

I have a feeling Ill have the motor in and ready to go well before I get my harness back from being cut down. Only other parts I need to figure out are the clutch pedal and headers. Luckily my center console dash is big enough to house the R1, Ill just need to add a scoop for the filter to the top.

I cant wait to get started!
 
Looks good Ben! Are you having PeterD do your harness or someone else?

Seems like a lot of us are going to be seeing our kits from Weller soon!
 
great another R1 car on the way to the race track.

i have been back and forth on the harness wiring from peter D put he has not given me a warm and fuzzy just yet. he is great with the zuki motors but has not really impressed me with knowledge of the R1.

i bought 2 yamaha service manuals one hard back and one disc. the hard back is great for colors of the wiring harness and is spot on with all of the colors.

i labeled all of my plugs and have a list of what to do with most of them. i am not a wiring genious but know how to cut, solder and shrink wrap. plus i would rather know my car so i can trouble shoot it if i have any problems.

Weller told me they did all of the wiring in house and they did not use the stock cluster to make it run. also said that most of the plugs dont need to be jumpered to make it run either.



have you found out how much electrical power the stock motor puts out? this is one thing i am concerned about. with a rad fan, fuel pump,gauges, race radio, and large offroad lights i an concerned the motor does not have enough.
 
I think Im going to go with Barkers for the Harness. He price seems really good, and he will do up a little switch plate with all the switches and lights you need, and then you only have to connect a few wire, battery positive, ground.. Pretty easy.

I am going to use the stock Gauges, mostly for the tach but also for pulling codes and such if there are problems.

On the air filter, I was thinking of using a Kinser filter. What do you guys think. Probably need to run his qualifying filer though, its made for very dusty conditions. Not as trick as Peter D, but I think it will flow better, and its cheaper.

Speed Partz, Kinser Air Filter - dwarf car, modified lite

I also found a trick filter setup from Rosson, thats pretty darn nice.

Online Store // Rosson Racing Online Store
 
have you found out how much electrical power the stock motor puts out? this is one thing i am concerned about. with a rad fan, fuel pump,gauges, race radio, and large offroad lights i an concerned the motor does not have enough.

I think youll be fine until you get to the lights. Thats going to be tough.

Are you running the Wellers brake setup? If not you could do a pulley on the opposite side of the sprocket, and run an alternator.
 
Weller has a brake setup for the SR1? Rear outboards or ?

Was thinking about just swapping over to the 08+ stock setup to get rear brakes. What does weller have availible?
 
You'll have to confirm with Jason on the technical stuff, but I am running a brake rotor on my rear hub/carrier. I believe you can also run the Gear one 4-wheel brake setup too, but three is enough to lock up the wheels......and a lot cheaper.

We used a stock Rhino brake pedal for our clutch - just cut the pedal in half to make it smaller....used a cable from something, I can't remember what! It works great! Cheap, too.....

Cheap is always good.....:D
 
On the 07s and before, they put a larger rotor on the hub carrier, and use the stock caliper. I believe you can even keep the ebrake functionality, which is nice. Yes, on the 08+, you would just be using the stock brakes at the wheel.

Corry, thanks for the tip on the clutch pedal. Ive been wanting to redo my pedals with hanging buggy pedals, and I figured this would be a good time to do that. Especially since I have to move my pedals over to make room for the clutch pedal anyways. But if I can just use a stock brake pedal and a cable, that would be nice to just get it done quick and cheap!
 
The rear end setup is still my biggest concern. The type 2 cv and micro stub setup is what i'd like to run so I can keep my brembo rear brakes, but the type 2s dont have much angle I am told. I dont want to lose 4" of travel in the rear. What to do????:confused:
 
The rear end setup is still my biggest concern. The type 2 cv and micro stub setup is what i'd like to run so I can keep my brembo rear brakes, but the type 2s dont have much angle I am told. I dont want to lose 4" of travel in the rear. What to do????:confused:

Are you comparing the Type 2s to Gorilla CVs, Stock CVs or? Do you have angle numbers on the type 2s? Ive read the Stock Type 2s will go to 25 deg, and stock 930s will go only go to 22 deg. Where as a race preped 930 will go to 28 deg. Not sure what Gorilla rates theirs at, but I run a ton of droop, and Ive never had a problem.

If your really worried, sell your Brembo setup for some good cash, and buy the Gear one centerboard hubs with brakes for $2200. The longer axle should more than makeup for the type 2s lesser angle?

I was going to do the Gear one, but decided to save them money at this point, so I can do some other stuff first instead.
 
I think youll be fine until you get to the lights. Thats going to be tough.

Are you running the Wellers brake setup? If not you could do a pulley on the opposite side of the sprocket, and run an alternator.


i am running the outboard polaris brakes. my frame is 5" narrower than a rhino in the rear and i cannot run a center brake rotor.
 
The brembos are much better brakes than the ones gear one uses so I want to keep them. I have read type 2 only give 17 degrees on some sites and others say over 27. :confused: I do know the 930s are stronger. To me the whole point is still getting rid of the rhino drive train and installing parts that arent going to break, not sure if type 2 with micro stub fits in that idea.
 
Court, was it pretty hard adapting those brembos? I can get a set for pretty cheap, was thinking about getting them for the fronts. Maybe doing up the backs too? Probably best to get the 08 hubs though, huh?
 
Cant wait to watch your car evolve Ben!!!!

Thanks Joey, hopefully it will go quick.

I just got my throttle bodies and Gauge cluster today (ebay), and got the call at lunch to schedule drop off of my motor for Monday AM. Im hoping to get the remainder of my parts on Tuesday at the latest, so I can send the harness out. Just waiting on my SR1 kit now!

Damn Im getting excited to slam the gears on this thing!
 
Court, was it pretty hard adapting those brembos? I can get a set for pretty cheap, was thinking about getting them for the fronts. Maybe doing up the backs too? Probably best to get the 08 hubs though, huh?

I'd guess the 08 would be easier. I machined down the snout on the 07 rear knuckle, then opened up the inside of a front hub. Then machined a small bracked to connect the caliper to the knuckle and get it all aligned correctly. Wasn't too bad, but I hate having one off parts. I have everything but calipers as spares, just need to machine it all.
 
The type 2 and type 4 are the same O.D. 100mm. The type 4 stock are good to 22deg safely but are $100 brand new. I run my type 4's at 20deg with 10.5in of wheel travel at 5in of ground clearance at full bump. I made my own stub axles and bought all new 08' rear hubs, spindles and brakes.

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