All UTV's horsepower ratings


Wine Spody Odey - UTVUnderground Approved
what kind of power are you guys putting to the ground? what motor kits in what UTV's. Something New to try. lets see some results
what kind of power are you guys putting to the ground? what motor kits in what UTV's. Something New to try. lets see some results

Well, stock Rhino 660 is about 23hp. Basic 686 is about 35 with carb and exhaust. More elaborate 686s with head porting are about 42 hp. 686s with aggressive porting/cams are up over 50 hp. Well built 720s are in the 50-55hp range. Rotax swaps are a little over 50 hp I believe. And of course the 760s and up are making big power, not sure how much, I would think 60-70?

Havent seen any dynos of stock teryxs or RZRs yet, myself..
my RZR is 37.7 with exhaust, intake, bored throttlebody, fuel controller, ignition controller.

my 06 rhino is 30 hp with tunning KMS intake and KMS header, dynatek cdi.
All this is, is bench racing.

if they all lined up on one dyno, then it might tell something, other wise you really only know that you gain some hp over stock.

I do not know what my HP is but it runs strong. :cool:
He's got a good point. Dyno results are soooo misleading, and are a favorite tool for salesmen. Different dyno's typically read differently. And even the same dyno will give different results from the same machine on a cold, damp day then a hot, dry day. There's also so much loss in the drive train on a Rhino (or other Side X Side). Consider the crank output on a 660 is 40, and rear wheel is only 23 or so (there's a lot of variance between identical Rhinos).

Now add to that, the output characteristics are so important on a machine that weighs in around 1100 pounds (stock). I've seen machines that show 10 or more extra horsepower over another machine, but end up being slower in real life use because the power is coming through in the wrong place, or is 'peaky' and not good use through a CVT tranny.

Now I will give in that a machine that reads 23 on one dyno, versus another machine that's clocking in at 45 on a different dyno is most probably going to be slower. But when different peices parts or different kits are showing results in the ballpark (say 10 horse or so) I'd be cautious to bet my next paycheck on the results in real life driving. Then again, my paychecks aren't really gambling that much so I guess the risk might be worth it.
Forgot to mention my favorite example of dyno result abuse. There's certain manufacturer of performance parts (a slip-on exhaust) that had a dyno chart on their website that showed a nice gain of Rhino 660 rear wheel horsepower over bone stock using their part and nothing else. The maximum HP increase occurred at 7500 RPM. The gain was around 10% I think. Not bad at the rear wheel for a part that costs under $300. In fact, pretty impressive.

Problem is, a bone stock Rhino 660 has a factory rev-limiter set at 6800 RPM :rolleyes: Oops!

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