Cost of Winning: The Monster Mav Chronicles

I have a new 4 seat Max frame on the floor as we type, actually, it is sitting on a jig that I built to build a chassis on. It was our plan to build the new chassis and have it ready for the Baja 500 this year. Bahaha, I say! Coincidentally, Big Jim at Cognito had the same thing on their floor at the same time we did. A bare frame on a jig. The difference is that he finished and is racing his, and I have yet to start ours.

We currently have no plans on racing UTV's next year, and have no obligation to, nor commitment from Can-am to do so. Even if we planned to race next season, I don't know where the time would come from for me to design a new chassis, let alone build it! Rest assured that if I do start a new UTV build, I will be sharing the how to's and why so's with all of you here in the Underground.

Thanks for your contribution to my thread! It is rewarding for me to know that others are enjoying, and learning from my posts and the story of the 2014 racing season.


I think you are full of shit. You guys are racing the new badass 140hp 20" travel Canam sxs with paddle shift. You cant b.s. us that Canam has not commited to a sponsorship for the top desert racing Canam team. I cant wait for the "Badass" version of the new Canam sxs. Will it come in another color than booger green?:cool:
 
I think you are full of shit. You guys are racing the new badass 140hp 20" travel Canam sxs with paddle shift. You cant b.s. us that Canam has not commited to a sponsorship for the top desert racing Canam team. I cant wait for the "Badass" version of the new Canam sxs. Will it come in another color than booger green?:cool:
Funny Dude!!
 
The new shocks that Fox are making for us will limit the ground clearance at full bump to 2" in the front, and 3" in the rear.

The old shocks were allowing 3" in the front, and for some reason, I think we missed the mark when mounting the rears because my notes from building the car says 3", but the damage I have been repairing for the last few weeks says something entirely different!

Thats where I was going with that...that amount of damage you have to be lower @ F.B. I know we limited our shocks on the new 1000 because whats the point of having the wheel travel if you don't have the ground clearance. The OE xp1000 only has 1.5"s @ F.B. according to our skid plate from the SS300.....thats not enough.
 
Thats where I was going with that...that amount of damage you have to be lower @ F.B. I know we limited our shocks on the new 1000 because whats the point of having the wheel travel if you don't have the ground clearance. The OE xp1000 only has 1.5"s @ F.B. according to our skid plate from the SS300.....thats not enough.
Where is your droop limit set at relative to the ground, and what is the max operating angle you are allowing your cv's to endure? Because lets face it, every UTE that I'm aware shares the same limitation regarding wheel travel. Deck height. Lots of room left for the cv's to deflect if the ground would allow it! At full droop, we have 21" of ground clearance, and that is only allowing 26-27* of max deflection on the cv's. I don't think that a car that tops out around 80 mph needs more than 17 or 18" of wheel travel anyhow. Just my opinion.
 
Do all output or half shafts have the same spline count? Like does Polaris half shaft have the same splines as the can am?


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The Motor Pan:
The original pan got bashed up so hard into the motor, that the back half wasn't salvageable! I used my skills as a Journeyman sheet metal mechanic, and my handy 10 ton "H" frame bottle jack press to form up a replacement section. I still need to flare out the drivers side rear flange to allow clearance for the transmission housing, and drill a tranny fluid drain hole in it as well. Notice how I implemented the angle iron stiffener attached to the sway bar housing to offer full support for the metal pan, as well as a solid backing to slide in a couple of "clip nuts" for mounting the skid plate. It slices! It dices! It chops! It's the Ronco angle iron support bar, all for just $2,995.00:D!

With the 1/2" thick Factory UTV skid plate, I'm debating on whether or not to even put back in the factory perforated exhaust pipe protection guard that ran parallel to the frame rails. Probably a good place to open up the skid plate a bit to let some of that hot exhaust gas seep out the bottom of the pan instead of floating up into the CVT cover.

Lesson time:
The higher velocity airflow below the skid plate versus the lower speed of the air above it, will cause a low pressure zone on the outside of the skid plate, right under the exhaust pipe, "pushing" the hot air out the bottom of the car. It is one of the fundamental principles of aerodynamics known as "Bernoulli's Principle" which states that with increased wind velocity, the pressure decreases. Its the same thing that makes airplanes fly. Notice how the top of an airplane wing is curved up (convexed)? This forces the air that is flowing over it to speed up, so it meets with the air flowing under the wing at the same time when it reaches the rear of the wing. The high pressure zone below the wing is what gives the wing lift, and keeps the airplane afloat!

Ever notice a convertible on the freeway driving with the soft top up? It seems odd that the top is bowing upwards, as if it were being "pushed" up. Well it is, due to the fact that the wind on the outside is blowing faster than the wind on the inside. The result is a high pressure zone on the inside of the car. A dragster wing is another good example of this principle that Mr Bernoulli, an italian physicist discovered in the mid 1800's. It is basically an airplane wing turned upside down, netting the opposite effects on the dragster than it does on a plane. The idea here is that the space that the faster air is vacating needs to be replenished with new air, which it gets from the adjacent slow moving air zone. See it now! YAY!:D Sorry if that bored you.
So, here is the modification that I was referring to regarding air velocities and high/low pressure zones. I opened up the existing pattern in the metal protective exhaust plate that runs below the #1 cylinder header pipe. I also will have our good friends at Factory UTV modify yet again, the hole pattern that they cut into the skid plate. There are a couple of additional things that I am currently trying regarding the CVT cover and exhaust shrouding that I am not yet ready to disclose. (what's the use of showing you all something that I am not convinced works or not, right?)

The jist of the holes I added in the metal plate, as well as the matching holes FUTV will cut in the skid plate for me, is that the heat from the exhaust pipe instead of rising up onto the CVT cover, will now be "pushed" out the bottom, based on the principles of aerodynamics as outlined by Mr. Bernoulli.
 

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Vindication:
Well, it looks like it will be so. In the latter part of this year, Can-am should be offering the Maverick with the rear diff moved back for the purpose of aligning the inner and outer rear cv joints. This builder is feeling pretty proud right about now. The word also is that they are considering offering a "Monster Mav" edition of the Can-am Maverick sometime next year. No word on how closely it may resemble our work here, but if it is released, it will certainly help Can-am grab more of the market share in sales. I would like to think that they will do more than just add better shocks, exhaust, and graphics (ala the 2013 JX version of the Polaris XP). If they go with a front steer design, and have the re-located rear diff, it would be a bold move on their part and the car would sell (and work) better than ever before.

I should say that besides lengthy conversations I had with the Can-am brass at this years Mint 400, I have shared no correspondence with them regarding what I just shared here. Let's say that a little bidrie told me. Actually, a larger, red-headed bird!!
 
Vindication:
Well, it looks like it will be so. In the latter part of this year, Can-am should be offering the Maverick with the rear diff moved back for the purpose of aligning the inner and outer rear cv joints. This builder is feeling pretty proud right about now. The word also is that they are considering offering a "Monster Mav" edition of the Can-am Maverick sometime next year. No word on how closely it may resemble our work here, but if it is released, it will certainly help Can-am grab more of the market share in sales. I would like to think that they will do more than just add better shocks, exhaust, and graphics (ala the 2013 JX version of the Polaris XP). If they go with a front steer design, and have the re-located rear diff, it would be a bold move on their part and the car would sell (and work) better than ever before.

I should say that besides lengthy conversations I had with the Can-am brass at this years Mint 400, I have shared no correspondence with them regarding what I just shared here. Let's say that a little bidrie told me. Actually, a larger, red-headed bird!!

way to go Reid


i told you so! now i got dibs on the first free one.
 
way to go Reid


i told you so! now i got dibs on the first free one.
Thanks MDD! I'm still waiting on word about the 140 hp, 20" wheel travel, paddle shifting Mav that you conjured up! Hey! Heads up! Right now on NBC sports is the Mint 400. The second hour of coverage is starting now. Last year, the 2nd hour was reserved for UTV's and the "other" classes of the race. Polaris is a presenting sponsor of the event, so Can-am fans beware! We ran up front all day in that race, and missed the win by 5 or 10 minutes, so there should be some Monster coverage. We're talking, and people are listening. Let's keep up the yapping and we'll have our day!

I am hoping to get a simple movie camera and begin documenting our races, as well as the whole 1900 class of cars beginning at this years V2R. It will all be shared on the airwaves when I do. Filming and drinking, ah yes! The good old days of racing past!:D:D:D
 
Thats where I was going with that...that amount of damage you have to be lower @ F.B. I know we limited our shocks on the new 1000 because whats the point of having the wheel travel if you don't have the ground clearance. The OE xp1000 only has 1.5"s @ F.B. according to our skid plate from the SS300.....thats not enough.

Where is your droop limit set at relative to the ground, and what is the max operating angle you are allowing your cv's to endure? Because lets face it, every UTE that I'm aware shares the same limitation regarding wheel travel. Deck height. Lots of room left for the cv's to deflect if the ground would allow it! At full droop, we have 21" of ground clearance, and that is only allowing 26-27* of max deflection on the cv's. I don't think that a car that tops out around 80 mph needs more than 17 or 18" of wheel travel anyhow. Just my opinion.

A 1600 car has less HP, 11 inches of front wheel travel & 16 in the rear. So why is it a UTV can't beat the 1600 cars?

Tire size is one big factor, weight is another huge factor & the 1600 cars are simple reliable and you can beat the living snot out of one.

In order to use the 18 inches efficiently that the UTV's are getting you need a bigger tire Period! Bigger tires means smaller holes. It means more ground clearance in the ruts & when at bottomed out.

Now the next issue is weight. Most of these desert UTV's are fat pigs! If you can't get the weight out of your car, then gets some 120 lbs drivers in them. A 1600 is 1600 lbs. some UTV's weight as much as some of the lighter class 10 & 12 cars.
 
Right on! I hear the badassmav edition will come with lifetime service from Reid's performance.

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A Arm Fabrication:
So, I am beginning the process of making new a arms to replace the ones that Marc abused at the 500. I'm still not clear on what I am going to do about the front lower arm that was damaged, but I have a game plan for the rears, so here we go.

The jig plate that I am using is the same one I built when I had to replace the front arms. I made sure when I built it that it was large enough to fab all 8 a arms on. The process will require many steps, and I will cover them all here. Experienced fabricators , please be patient as I talk through even the most obvious steps with those who may not be as advanced as us. The arms I am replacing are the 2 rear lower ones that I originally built with the car last year. They have been taking a beating for awhile now, and have seen my TIG torch far too many times since their inception to count. They finally buckled en route to our 500 win, and now must be replaced. Since they were hand built and cut, and welded with no holding fixture, they are as asymmetrical as a part can be! I was lucky that one of the arms were not too deformed, as I will use it as a reference to pick up the 3 mounting points, and the general outline of the finished part.

I start by drilling the appropriate hole(s) into the angle iron jig bar to accept and identify the location of the weld bungs. Then, I made up a holding plate to pick up the third weld bung that represents the outer end of the a arm. I draw an outline of the a arm by using the old a arm as a pattern, then replace it with 3 weld bungs bolted into their respective positions. The job is now ready for me to start measuring and cutting the tubes that will make up the inner support frame. I made universal stand-offs when I made the jig plate, and once mounted, they are what I will be using to position and hold the tubing in place for welding.

I'll continue this post in a day or two when I have more to share.
 

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Here's some more definitive pics of the bent/buckled driver side rear lower arm. There have been multiple hard impacts on these lower arms, which began as far back as last years V2R race. That is the race that the rear of the Monster Mav began it's saggy past. There was actually about 6 linear inches of welding repair that I performed while prepping the car for this years Baja 500. But no impacts to date has buckled or ripped the edges of the weld seams wide open like what happened in Baja. irreparable damage. Catastrophic mostly due to the collapsing and subsequent stretching of the plate and adjacent welded vertical stiffeners, as well as the overall distortion of the arm. But yet, for a second time since San Felipe, the arms integrity, yet compromised, was still durable enough to get the car to the checkers quicker than the rest, and with no resulting downtime. I'll follow up with pics of the SF 250 damage and repair shortly.

Perhaps it is time to re-evaluate weight, and the role it plays in a winning program. (Hey! What if I'm really just a barbell salesman trying to pick up a few extra customers?! Ha heee:D)
 

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The San Felipe damage, :eek: and post race repair of the driver side front lower a arm. Another example of how weight, as a tool of redundancy, has a place on a race car. I can thank this SF 250 incident for the welding jig that I now have to fab our new rear arms with! :)
 

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A arm Fab:
I now have the tubes cut and fit, as well as the positioning standoffs mounted. Notice the fit between the tubing and weld bungs. Not a perfect TIG weld fit, but more than adequate for a MIG job. Also, notice on the top view how the straight tube is aligned flush with the outside edge of the bung, instead of in the center of it. This is so when I attach the vertical strips of .090" chromoly to the frame, they are supported by the inner tubing frame. I will drill holes in the stiffener strips prior to tacking them into position so I can rosette weld the outer skin to the inner frame, creating a single and much stiffer weldment.

Once I tack weld the perimeter strips in place, I then can take firm and accurate measurements for the top and bottom plates. I will then develop a digital drawing of the plates and email it out for quoting. I should have the plates cut and back here by mid next week. Stay tuned.............
 

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Nice work! I appreciate the effort you go through as a race builder, and also a teacher! Im sure you dont here it much, but, THANKS!
 
Nice work! I appreciate the effort you go through as a race builder, and also a teacher! Im sure you dont here it much, but, THANKS!
I appreciate your interest in our efforts. Stay tuned to this thread, as I will be using it as a diary of sorts all the way up to the V2R race in August. I thoroughly cover with pics and verbage, every aspect of preparing and maintaining a class 1900 race car. There's a lot to be exposed, and a lot to be learned, so tell a friend and don't be afraid to ask questions! I don't know everything, so I enjoy when readers offer suggestions as well. Thanks again for your support!:)
 
I appreciate your interest in our efforts. Stay tuned to this thread, as I will be using it as a diary of sorts all the way up to the V2R race in August. I thoroughly cover with pics and verbage, every aspect of preparing and maintaining a class 1900 race car. There's a lot to be exposed, and a lot to be learned, so tell a friend and don't be afraid to ask questions! I don't know everything, so I enjoy when readers offer suggestions as well. Thanks again for your support!:)

Looking forward to it myself;

The boxing of the a-arm provides a longer service life correct?
 

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