Kawasaki Teryx LT Compendium

OFF TOPIC. Joey set this thread up to be a compendium of Teryx Suspension Sytems available on the market, not another discussion on what LT is best. Come on guys, back on topic. Have your mfg post up his system Steve, I'd like to see it.
 
OFF TOPIC. Joey set this thread up to be a compendium of Teryx Suspension Sytems available on the market, not another discussion on what LT is best. Come on guys, back on topic. Have your mfg post up his system Steve, I'd like to see it.

your guys are really getting 16" up front with a 6" stroke shock?
if so - thats awesome
 
that nice!! wish the Rhino could get that much with a 6" shock

kyle,
It doesn't have to do with the length of the shock.. the rhino is stuck at less travel because of the cv joints, and ground clearance. They can only move so much. You could put a 4" stroke shock on, or a 12" stroke shock, and still get the same wheel travel. It all depends on where the mounts are located and the leverage ratios involved with running a certain length shock.

A 4" stroke shock would have a really high leverage ratio needing super stiff valving and springs, and would have to be located a lot closer to the chassis side pivot points, and the opposite would be true with a 12" shock.

just wanted to shed a little light on it for ya.
G-
 
kyle,
It doesn't have to do with the length of the shock.. the rhino is stuck at less travel because of the cv joints, and ground clearance. They can only move so much. You could put a 4" stroke shock on, or a 12" stroke shock, and still get the same wheel travel. It all depends on where the mounts are located and the leverage ratios involved with running a certain length shock.

A 4" stroke shock would have a really high leverage ratio needing super stiff valving and springs, and would have to be located a lot closer to the chassis side pivot points, and the opposite would be true with a 12" shock.

just wanted to shed a little light on it for ya.
G-

ok - so i hear of kits with a +6 arm and a 8" shock moving the tab out on the arm and doing a tower and they were getting more travel then the 6" shock- is that not true?

I understand the leverage deal for the most part. I guess I need to read up more on shocks.

So do you get a better ride with the longer shocks or just eaiser tuning?
 
Who is that and what kit for the teryx does he build?



i am sure there are opinions for everything, but i like to test them and see what i find to work. If you just follow what everyone else has you will be doing just that .......

We tested our kit both ways at first and felt it worked better with rear toe in place!!! and the only correct way to make it adjustable is to use some type of heim or bearing on the pivot end so that was an added cost we didnt feel people wanted to pay for
 
ok - so i hear of kits with a +6 arm and a 8" shock moving the tab out on the arm and doing a tower and they were getting more travel then the 6" shock- is that not true?

I understand the leverage deal for the most part. I guess I need to read up more on shocks.

So do you get a better ride with the longer shocks or just eaiser tuning?

Its hard to say... the shock could be the limiting factor, but it really depends on the overall design. The main limits are ball joint/uniball angles, cv joint angles and ground clearance needed at full compression. The arms can only go so far down due to limits of joints, and they can only go so far up or else the chassis hits the ground. There are scenerios that if you stuck a longer shock on, you could get more wheel travel, but that is only becuase the shorter shock wasn't using all the travel available. So i guess what i am trying to say is, you can't base the travel strictly on length of the shock.

What you said could be true, but it depends on the other factors as well.

As far as the better ride and easier tuning.. the shock stroke doesn't really have an effect on that either. the longer the shock, usually means there is a lower leverage ratio, so the shock can do a better job of controlling the the suspension. but if the leverage ratio gets too low, you might not be able to get a light enough spring, and the piston is going to need to move a lot faster and further inside the shock creating more heat.. like wise, if the leverage ratio is too high, the shock has to work a lot more to control the suspension creating the need for higher spring rate coils, and valving that is alot stiffer causing the fluid to heat up more as well. so ideal is somewhere in the middle.. for harder racing and abuse, the longer the shock the better, so it can control the suspension easier, but too long, and it starts getting worse... not to say it won't work at either extreme, just not as well as it could.

as for ride feeling, its all on how the shock is tuned and sprung for the particular car. if the leverage is super high, then it might be harder to tune and get working as well as it could, because the shock is kind of overloaded in a sense.. but it could make it feel softer, giving a better ride, but it won't have as much resistance to bottoming out.

so overall, there are many factors that effect the ride and performance and wheel travel of a suspension system, not just the length of the shock alone.

Hope that helps, and doesn't confuse the crap out of everyone. :D
 
Is this the "California Radius" wheel travel measurement or is it true
travel from full droop and full compression???:eek::eek::D:D

Actually, that is true wheel travel measured by Jim Anderson, our new suspension tech formerly of :: TForce Motorsports :: .

Again, rather than making this thread another "I know more than you" go around, let's get back on topic. Let's see your new kit Steve. Please use Joey's template and post the specs as well.
 
Again, rather than making this thread another "I know more than you" go around, let's get back on topic. .

I agree ... but i think this thread is starting to give alot of great info. i mean the specs the manufacture puts in the boxes is not really all that important IMO. Now take all these kits installed and have one person cyle them the same way. Then take the measurments all the same way ... THEN that one person post his findings. That would be solid. Maybe that would be a great start for a suspension shootout?...... I will take 14 inches of quality travel over 18 inches of not so great travel all day long.

Let's see your new kit Steve. .

Not sure what kit i am going to run yet ...... lots of options before i drop any coin.

I love my XMF kit on the 2009 It works great and the guys there are a class act.

I REALLY like Long travel Industries kit ..... i always have loved the looks of that kit and after seeing his car work VERY EFFIN GOOD at the battle of the builders his kit is on my short list for my 2010

Not to mention my homies at Magnum get down .... and i would love to run their new stuff

Then HRT ... after hearing they tested the toe and found it to work better with NO TOE is very cool as nobody else is doing that.

I have a good freind making me a custom kit ...... It will have alot of different thinking that i dont see in any kits on the market. Will it work better? Who knows ..... we will see IF it ever gets done.

Please use Joey's template and post the specs as well.

who knows when and if it will ever get done and if it does it wont be available for anyone to buy anyways. So the REAL numbers it has wont matter. What willmatte ris that it will have stuff no other kits i have seen have.
 
Great thread...since I'm stock!!!!! :D

I think another big consideration in anyone's "opinion" is how close the OEM is to their home. Big plus in my book to be able to go over to the shop and be able to deal face to face...luckily I've got LSR, XMF and DF in my backyard...not discounting Magnum, Long Travel, ect...
 
I tell ya what everyone send me a kit and I will give it the waytay test and post my results. I will then return every kit I liked least and keep the one I like best???? whatta ya think????

Joey you need the most important part to go with this thread. The specs on shocks. Fox should be explaining the pro's and cons of each of their shocks along with walker and king?????

Joey your gonna make a good politician yet!!!!
 
Thanks Wayne! lol...

Ok boys back to the topic at hand...still waiting on XMF, HRT, Mafia, SDR, etc...... If anyone knows these guys get them on here! POST IT UP!
 
Well if you’re talkin Kawi. Check it out! Our new Black Magic +6 Long Travel designed in Solid Works for perfect geometry and strength, these kit's have lost 40 lbs this year and are now pulling over 14" of travel. We use boxed in laser cut chrome alloy arms on all of our kits. We race what we sell, this kit and design are Responsible for Back to Back Baja 500 and 1000 Wins, Lucas oil Championship, and is now being featured in your Factory Monster Energy Team Green Kawasaki parts and performance catalog as well as many local dealers around the world. We run special tuned Fox Shox that are built exactly to our specifications for the best overall performance. Bottom line if you are looking for total teraine domination you want Black Magic from Dragonfire Racing.

Check it out at : http://www.dragonfireracing.com/kawasaki-teryx-750-suspension.aspx
 

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I was at Cognito Last night helping Justin out with the Teryx...heres a sneak peek of the front shock tower, Fox sent the wrong springs somehow so they are way short....but we put them on anyways just to see if they were going to be stiff enough to hold the car off the ground. The shock are going to be 8 1/2 stroke Fox position sensitive.

For you weight continence people the front tower weight 8 pounds and the shocks look like they are only going to be maybe4 0r 5 pounds more each.
IMG00015-20091217-1828.jpg
 

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