STETLER's R1 Rhino by 151 Fabrication
- Thread starter STETLER
- Start date
megadesertdiesel
Well-Known Member
did the Peter D airfilter work ok in the dunes?
The final weight of the car is 1530 with out the light bar and with the Heavy Mud terrain dirt tires. That is no passenger or driver with a 3/4 tank of gas (13 Gallons).
The front to back weight came in at 100 Lbs exactly - heavier in the rear.
Yes, it is Right Hand Drive. Just thought I'd do something a little different from the other guys builds. My gear shifter is still on the right side of me and the Forward/Reverse lever is on the Left side of me.
So far the PeterD Air cleaner is working out great. I'm really not a big fan of these Foam filters but unfortunately that’s what I had to go with. I'll know better as the season continues.
The front to back weight came in at 100 Lbs exactly - heavier in the rear.
Yes, it is Right Hand Drive. Just thought I'd do something a little different from the other guys builds. My gear shifter is still on the right side of me and the Forward/Reverse lever is on the Left side of me.
So far the PeterD Air cleaner is working out great. I'm really not a big fan of these Foam filters but unfortunately that’s what I had to go with. I'll know better as the season continues.
Thanks. That was a VERY big deal through out this entire build. Always thinking about weight and how the car will handle.
It's so funny how 3 years ago We built one of the first +8" LT kits for a rhino and everybidy told us that it was dumb and a bad idea. Then during this kit I mounted the gas tank in the center of the car. Knowing that as you run out of gas or fill up the tank it will change a whole hell of a lot to your handling if it was in the back or the side of the car. Again everybody told me it was a horrible idea due to the risk of a fire right next to you......................................................................
Now look at the builds people are doing. Same thing !!
Well, from the first dune trip running the paddles I found out that the paddles were rubbing the Rear Bypass shocks. We thought we'd clear them but Found out we didn't:eek2:
We were also hitting the rear fender REAL bad. So bad that we took some chunks out of the paddles and ripped out one of the Dzus fastners.
We also were cycling the front suspension so much that it cought the hood and cracked it. So being the guiness I am, I just ripped it off and made it look worse.
Todd came over and did some more mods to it last night so I'll be dialed in for Pres. weekend. We knew we had to make new rear fender mounts so this is what todd came up with.
Old rear fender mount
New Fender mount with higher dzus mount and fenders cut higher
Old Hood - before cutting up
New High cut- not much left and I'm not digging it too much. I'm sure it will grow on me though
Today I went by King Shocks and picked up some new stickers for the rear shocks. Man it took awhile to get all that rubber and old sticker off
I also picked up the paddles from getting custom cut. This should allow more wheel spin and get me into my R's faster
King needs 2 weeks to custom make new top caps that will allow the res. to sit in another 1/2" so I bought some 1/2" wheel spacers to get me by for the weekend. That should keep the tire off the rear shocks. Really not the way I wanted to do it but Glamis is calling and I need to answer
It's so funny how 3 years ago We built one of the first +8" LT kits for a rhino and everybidy told us that it was dumb and a bad idea. Then during this kit I mounted the gas tank in the center of the car. Knowing that as you run out of gas or fill up the tank it will change a whole hell of a lot to your handling if it was in the back or the side of the car. Again everybody told me it was a horrible idea due to the risk of a fire right next to you......................................................................
Now look at the builds people are doing. Same thing !!
Well, from the first dune trip running the paddles I found out that the paddles were rubbing the Rear Bypass shocks. We thought we'd clear them but Found out we didn't:eek2:
We were also hitting the rear fender REAL bad. So bad that we took some chunks out of the paddles and ripped out one of the Dzus fastners.
We also were cycling the front suspension so much that it cought the hood and cracked it. So being the guiness I am, I just ripped it off and made it look worse.
Todd came over and did some more mods to it last night so I'll be dialed in for Pres. weekend. We knew we had to make new rear fender mounts so this is what todd came up with.
Old rear fender mount
New Fender mount with higher dzus mount and fenders cut higher
Old Hood - before cutting up
New High cut- not much left and I'm not digging it too much. I'm sure it will grow on me though
Today I went by King Shocks and picked up some new stickers for the rear shocks. Man it took awhile to get all that rubber and old sticker off
I also picked up the paddles from getting custom cut. This should allow more wheel spin and get me into my R's faster
King needs 2 weeks to custom make new top caps that will allow the res. to sit in another 1/2" so I bought some 1/2" wheel spacers to get me by for the weekend. That should keep the tire off the rear shocks. Really not the way I wanted to do it but Glamis is calling and I need to answer
I do have a stock gas tank in perfect shape, No holes drilled in it. was asking $75.00 but will take $50. plus shipping or pick it up at my house in Orange.
The side plastics and floor board I sold a long time ago. But I do have after market Fiberglass rear fenders (same ones I'm now running) along with the matching lower side panels and a rear tailgate cover.
Here's some pics of the fenders and side covers.
Same fenders I'm running
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee279/bstetler_99/rhinoweighing015.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee279/bstetler_99/rhinoweighing018.jpg
The side plastics and floor board I sold a long time ago. But I do have after market Fiberglass rear fenders (same ones I'm now running) along with the matching lower side panels and a rear tailgate cover.
Here's some pics of the fenders and side covers.
Same fenders I'm running
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee279/bstetler_99/rhinoweighing015.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee279/bstetler_99/rhinoweighing018.jpg
roostingrhino
Roost That Rhino - UTVUnderground Approved
steetler what did you break when ur clutch over pulled? mines stuck enagaged and it looks fine under the cover but i am guessing i broke a return spring or something??? i gotta take it apart and investigate...
I over extended the throw on the clutch arm on the motor. It broke the cast on the inside of the cover and a part that goes right inside of the cover that attaches to the pivot arm. Here's some pics of what I broke.
This first pic is the inside of the clutch cover. You can see how it's cracked So when I pulled on the clutch cable it would just flex the top of the rod out and not allow the clutch to pull (engage).
This part of shaft IS Suppose to Pivot around. (there was Nothing wrong with this part)
Sorry for the late reply, I've been real busy with work and family so I haven't been on here much.
Since I had it all opened up , I replaced all the bearings and even that last little gear shaft that was still good. The cover was expensive (about $130.00) all together it cost me just under $200. You can remove the clutch cover and no motor oil will come out, So make sure you don't drain your oil first and then have to pay for more oil. UNless it's time to do a oil change.
Good luck and let me know what you find out once you open it up. Sounds like it might just be a broken clutch disk and some springs. If you have to replace the clutch, I'd go with a stocker. I've been doing some research and Most of the guys on the R1 forums (even race bikes) are running the YAMAHA Stock Clutch over the aftermarket ones.
This first pic is the inside of the clutch cover. You can see how it's cracked So when I pulled on the clutch cable it would just flex the top of the rod out and not allow the clutch to pull (engage).
This part of shaft IS Suppose to Pivot around. (there was Nothing wrong with this part)
Sorry for the late reply, I've been real busy with work and family so I haven't been on here much.
Since I had it all opened up , I replaced all the bearings and even that last little gear shaft that was still good. The cover was expensive (about $130.00) all together it cost me just under $200. You can remove the clutch cover and no motor oil will come out, So make sure you don't drain your oil first and then have to pay for more oil. UNless it's time to do a oil change.
Good luck and let me know what you find out once you open it up. Sounds like it might just be a broken clutch disk and some springs. If you have to replace the clutch, I'd go with a stocker. I've been doing some research and Most of the guys on the R1 forums (even race bikes) are running the YAMAHA Stock Clutch over the aftermarket ones.
megadesertdiesel
Well-Known Member
its very tricky to get the splines linned up when installing the cover. it takes a few times to get it right for me and i have had mine apart quite a few times.
like Brett said stay with the stock clutch, i melted a Barnett heavy duty clutch when i burried my rear tires while side hilling in the dunes.
if you get stuck dont slip the clutch it will get you a towride home.
luckily i had my stock clutch pack and put that in and did not miss any dunning. that reminds me i need to order a spare stock clutch for the same reason.
like Brett said stay with the stock clutch, i melted a Barnett heavy duty clutch when i burried my rear tires while side hilling in the dunes.
if you get stuck dont slip the clutch it will get you a towride home.
luckily i had my stock clutch pack and put that in and did not miss any dunning. that reminds me i need to order a spare stock clutch for the same reason.
