Yamaha Rear axle help

[tucks15]

Im trying to fabricate a rear axle using the stock rhino rear cv joints. I have inquired about a custom inner splined shaft to slip over the cv but no shop around me has the tool to build such a piece. I have been toying with the idea of finding a steel pipe to press fit over the splines and weld on each end of the inboard cv joint. My plan then is to mount a sprocket onto the pipe which will be driven by 530 chain. Motor is from a 05 gsxr 750. I am running a jackshaft in between motor drive sprocket and rear axle. Let me know if you think this idea will work or not.

 

[Oc1]

Not sure I'm following what your trying to do? The picture looks like the stub shafts? Maybe make a quick drawing of what your trying to do. I just built a GSXR powered ride and went thru all that your experiencing.

 

[tucks15]

Here is a drawing I did up. The Steel pipe would be pressed into place. I could machine it to fit perfectly. The ends of the pipe would then be welded to the stub shaft. The splines would be completly enclosed by the pipe. I would mounted the steel pipe to ride in pillow blocks to hold it in place. I would also be curious to see some pictures of your setup if possible. I also have attached a picture of Jason Wellers first setup which is basically trying to achieve here. Thanks for the help.

 

[Glamisfan]

Could you take the guts out of the Rhino diff, attach a sprocket to it, and machine it to ride in some pillar blocks?

 

[Glamisfan]

Also, I've seen people weld 930 cv's to the stock stub shafts, so what your drawing purposes should work.

 

[tucks15]

I'd like to get rid of the spline setup all together which is why I was trying to stay away from machining the ring gear to work. The splines seem like the weak point in the drive line. The 930 flange is a good idea. I'll look into that, thanks

 

[Oc1]

That should work fine. You might want to drill and spot weld a couple of holes as well as just welding up the end. I would machine a shoulder on each side and then press the pillow block bearings on so that you don't get any lateral movement. Then make a mount for the sprocket and weld that on as opposed to welding on the sprocket. That way you can switch ratios or easily replace a worn out one.
I originally had a toyota 8" in mine driven by a drive shaft but the amount of travel ended up being more angle than it could handle. Just finishing changing it over to a fixed differential with 930 cv's. I wanted to avoid the chain but not sure if all the extra time and money was worth it or not. I guess we will see next season how the car does.

 

[tucks15]

Thanks for the help gents. I think I will go the 930 flange route. May cost a bit more but wll be easier to change sprockets as everything will be bolted together. If I went the pipe route the only way to get it off would be to cut it off and most likely build a new pipe.

I'll post pictures when my project is completed.

 

[Glamisfan]

They do make two piece sprockets.

 

[c&c rhino]

930 flanges will make life alot easier. even easier than type 2s

 

[tucks15]

So just to confirm what I should do. From what I've seen the 930 cv joint is bolted in between the drive flange that connects to diff and the other flange. I take it I can just weld the outer flange to my rhino inboard cv joints and bolt it up to the drive flange?