No More Clutch or Belt Issues!

MTNTK Performance

New Member
The Blow Hole was developed out of a desperate need to increase belt and clutch life. In the extreme conditions belt covers are removed in an attempt to prevent belt failures, but leads to premature clutch wear and failure. The clutches and drive belt show up as a weak link as the added load is converted to wasted heat energy. This waste heat deteriorates drive belts, and breaks down composite bearing surfaces and parts which lead to increased inefficiency. UTV’s place extreme loads on their clutches and belt which builds extreme heat. This heat, in turn, will end up costing you money and riding time. It leads to premature wear on your clutches, and complete belt and clutch failure. The Blow Hole places a high output auxiliary fan in the cooling ducts of your clutch housing. It dramatically reduces ultimate temperatures generated in the clutch system and also speeds cooling of the clutch housing when traveling at lower speeds between high load events. With true plug and play OEM connectors, the Blow Hole is a must for any UTV enthusiast.​

Available for: Polaris RZR Turbo, RZR 900 Trail, RZR 900 XC, RZR 900 S, RZR 800, RZR 570, RZR 1000 S, RZR XP1000, RZR XP900, General and Ranger.

Visit https://mtntkperformance.com/polaris-rzr to order yours today!

 
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Do you have any data? What is the fans CFM numbers? What about Electrical load on the tail light circuit? Do you increase fuse amp size? Do you have any real air flow data showing this fan actually creates more air flow throughout the rpm range? I've seen some independent air flow data and a fan not running greatly restricts the air flow. Even a running fan only had benefits at some RPM ranges depending on clutch shifting. On the unit tested the fan actually pushed less air then the clutch itself did at max RPM, thus it caused a restriction & air buffing in the housing & hose. Was any calculations done to see if the exit duct can handle the extra air flow the electric fan claims to add above the stock air flow?

The fan, mounting and wiring look nice and clean. Would just like to see data showing it does what it's claimed to do.
 
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Every test I have seen is that the fan actually decreases air flow at WOT/top speed. This is unless you are using a fan that moves over 350 CFM of air, which would be rare and draw a lot of amperage. My 2 pesos.
 
Hi Guys,
I usually don't write to many post, but I can say that I personally have the MTNTK Blow Hole on my 2012 RZR XP900, with over 2500 miles on the factory belt. I recommended the Blow Hole to 3 other friends and they have not replaced a belt since. Wither your racing or leisurely riding you cant go wrong. Its a simple plug and play and is made of metal and not the plastic stuff out there. I personally have not seen any power limitations and still pull away on the Wildcat 1000. ;)
 
I would still like to see & hear if the OP has any data to back up the claims.

When doing my own research on this a few years back, I found using the XP 900 that only at low RPM does the fan increase airflow to the clutch, but even then its a little unknown, as when the clutch shifts the air flow changes, making the blower more or less effective.

IMO the only way to make an electric blower fan effective & beneficial is to add its own ducting, leaving all the factory ducting open and not restricted. This way the fan in not compromising the factory ducting and it truly more of an auxiliary system.

The next problem you have to look at is how much volume going in, has to have a way out. If you cant pull or push as much air out as going in you end up with buffeting or air pocket / void. Think about when fueling your fuel cell. Your dumping through a 3 inch filler neck, but in most cases you only have a 1 inch vent line. So you get a cavitation (air pocket) or back up in the filler neck until the air can escape the cell through the small 1 inch vent line. Have you ever seen your fuel cell swell while fueling? Its because you cant get the air out and replaced with fuel as fast as you trying to get he fuel in. Same thing happens when trying to push more air in to a place where you cant get the current air out. When we added a 2nd vent line, we cut our fueling time by 1/3rd. All because we could remove the air that much faster.

Also on the XP900 the stock exhaust air duct is very restrictive. Removing the exhaust ducting from the back side of the cover helps, but on a stock vehicle you lose the air flow coming out of the clutch and blowing across the header & manifold. Even though it is hot air, it is causing air circulation in a part of the car that does not get any direct airflow. On a race car where you have removed all the plastic body panels you have opened up that area & increased air flow to the back side of the engine & manifold, so its not as critical.
 
The fan for the Turbo is different for the fan for the 900 and 1000. The turbo pushes 225 CFM while the others push 195 CFM. The fan only draws 1.4 amps of power and does not affect the tail lights. The blow hole has been a proven product using in snow mobiles and rzr. If there is power to the ECU then the blow hole is running so restriction by the fan is a non factor. Hot air becomes stagnant in the clutch housing causing temperatures to increase and not come down even when idle. The blow holes helps reduce heat causing a roller coaster effect in heat fluctuation rather than a stair effect. Air flow becomes constant and prevents hot air from becoming stagnant in the clutch housing. Thermo testing has been done by us and customers. It various depending on the machine and the blow hole that is used but has resulted in decreased temperature on the belt and in the housing across the board.

The fact is the blow hole has increased the life of the belt and does reduce heat. Nikal we would be very interested in seeing the research and data you found a few years back on the 900 XP.
 
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If your fan produces 225 CFM and the stock system produces 400 CFM, you're restricting the amount of airflow that the clutching is getting.
 
This product is aimed at the mud guys who are rarely at full speed. When the rpms are not enough to produce the CFM produced by the fins on the secondary clutch.
However those of us who primarily dune/desert this product would be a hindrance to airflow at high speeds. The fins on the secondary clutch on the Polaris are really efficient. If you rev the car and put a piece of paper over the Frogskin intake, it'll hold it there for as long as you like. I'll guarantee that the fins on the secondary clutches on most of these machines will pull far more air than these fans can produce. And the added bonus is that it's free air. Meaning you don't have to worry about the amp draw of the fan.
 
This product is aimed at the mud guys who are rarely at full speed. When the rpms are not enough to produce the CFM produced by the fins on the secondary clutch.
However those of us who primarily dune/desert this product would be a hindrance to airflow at high speeds. The fins on the secondary clutch on the Polaris are really efficient. If you rev the car and put a piece of paper over the Frogskin intake, it'll hold it there for as long as you like. I'll guarantee that the fins on the secondary clutches on most of these machines will pull far more air than these fans can produce. And the added bonus is that it's free air. Meaning you don't have to worry about the amp draw of the fan.
We are in violent agreement. We are working on something that will increase air flow, eliminate dirt and not draw amperage. Stay tuned.
 
We ran a 2014 rzr 1000 in the koh and world utv championship and 2000 + miles on the thing only replaced the belt once. I will be putting it on the next rzr for sure!!
 
Adding a secondary inlet tube with fan on a switch sounds like the best. Run it at idle and when limping around if you want, and off at high speed.
 
Nikal we would be very interested in seeing the research and data you found a few years back on the 900 XP.

Just saw your request. I will have to see if I can find it, as it was just printed on a piece of paper. It was a few years ago, when I was first getting into the UTV's. It was given to me by another UTV enthusiast. He had a friend who was a retired aviation mechanical engineer, who still volunteered with a club that restored old war planes. He was able to use airflow meters and test the stock ducting/clutch fan. Then he tested with an inline 3" Boat Blower, turned off and then turned on. Each test & measurement was taken at 1000 rpm intervals. I can not say if this was done while in neutral or on some type of dyno, so the clutching would be opening and closing, and how much that might effect it? I also believe it was tested on both, pull & push ducting locations. But it was interesting and the data showed that at certain RPM's the blower did create more airflow. But at other times it did not or reduced air flow a bit. But with the fan off, it was a huge decrease in air flow, and if I remember at a certain RPM the air being pulled in actually started to turn the fan bladed while in the off position.
 

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