No More Clutch or Belt Issues!

[jakecarver91]

Interesting. We have done a lot of testing as well, and I would agree that the hot air needs to be removed faster than the stock turbo system allows. Am I reading this wrong or are you blowing air out of the intake? Isn't that working against the suction that the clutch system creates? The only thing I have found to work at high speeds is a scoop, but then debris cause issues. Who is going to test this thing in the dunes/a desert race and report back? Lol


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[the stripping shop]

So I played with this system works good. I used a intercooler temp gauge so I can measure temp going in and temp going out. But I put a switch on fan to see what it would do with on and off. Rzr 1000 4 seater with dirty dawg clutch kit was test pig. With fan off running around woods and desert system would run anywere from 200-215degrees driving like a retard. When turn fan on system would drop anywere from 15-20 degree depending on use, so temp would run between 180-190 degrees when hauling the mail. In woods just cruising around temp would stay between 140-150degrees with fan on. With fan off most times would be 170-190degrees depending what you would be doing. In the dunes belt temp run from 200-225degrees with fan off, with fan on wouldn't go over 200degrees but was really close to 200. But the biggest thing I found when you came to stop to drink an adult beverage was to leave fan on and run about 2500-3000 rpm for belt temp to drop to 150degrees. Belt went about 1700-1800 miles on. I never replaced clutch or parts in system for the whole time belt was in there.I understand the cfm statement but the rzr 1000 2015 has 2 intakes why not push 1 to the limits. Play car not a race car.

 

[Bajaxp]

Yes play and race are different IMO. For slower speeds and rock crawling a fan, it might work, but you have to make sure that the air doesn't short circuit through the other inlet tube. Therefore a flapper valve would be best to prevent this. Clutches are the least efficient at max speed and therefore make the most heat when the drive is closed and the driven is open. So for dez, a scoop is the best choice and the real key will be when someone can have 'ram air' (scoop) that removes nearly all of the dirt before it reaches the clutch box. This will get you cooler clutches peak speeds and they will be much happier by not having to live in the dirt, silt, dust, and other chit we run through. Stay tuned!

 

[the stripping shop]

It's a plug and play system for a play car lol. Race car no such thing as plug and play lol

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[BiggJim]

Yes play and race are different IMO. For slower speeds and rock crawling a fan, it might work, but you have to make sure that the air doesn't short circuit through the other inlet tube. Therefore a flapper valve would be best to prevent this. Clutches are the least efficient at max speed and therefore make the most heat when the drive is closed and the driven is open. So for dez, a scoop is the best choice and the real key will be when someone can have 'ram air' (scoop) that removes nearly all of the dirt before it reaches the clutch box. This will get you cooler clutches peak speeds and they will be much happier by not having to live in the dirt, silt, dust, and other chit we run through. Stay tuned!

Matt until UTVs go 120 your not going to "Ram" air regardless of how large your scoop is. Contrary to popular opinion I dont think scoops give any advantage.

 

[the stripping shop]

If matt and nikal would use there fancy formula they could figure out cfm but wait it's variable cfm never the same always changing lol. But if you have same cfm going in no matter what isn't that better then 50cfm and maybe spike at 300cfm or run a constant 225cfm all the time just saying. Matt why not run a spinner on top that sound dirt out like those fancy SB filter/ what heavy equipment has been using for years lol.

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[NIKAL]

Matt until UTVs go 120 your not going to "Ram" air regardless of how large your scoop is. Contrary to popular opinion I dont think scoops give any advantage.

This is correct. You can't push more CFM then what the clutch blades are already pulling in. This is why Top fuel & funny cars use blowers. The blower is pulling in the air not the scoop even at 300 mph.

Plus you can make the whole roof a scoop, but your still restricting it to a 3-4 inch hose. You can only push so much volume through that hose.

I know where Matt is going with this and yes a "Scoop or Duct" with a filter to remove the dirt & dust particles would be beneficial to adding belt & clutch life. Does Matt know of a product to do this???? LOL! I bet we see one soon.

 

[george.felix]

There isn't much air flow on the top of the roof till you get about 4" up so I'm not sure a Subaru type scoop does much. With a light bar it gets worse. It's not hard to test with a $20 wind velocity gauge. I'd tend to agree exhausting hot air and venting is probably more effective. Starting Line vents also help. I'm sure you can add something on the secondary fins to get a lot more fan effect too.

 

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