New UTV

What UTV

  • Polaris N/A

    Votes: 6 30.0%
  • Polaris Turbo

    Votes: 6 30.0%
  • Yamaha YXZ

    Votes: 4 20.0%
  • Can-Am Maverick Turbo

    Votes: 4 20.0%
  • Can-Am Maverick N/A

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    20
"..I am unsure as to why you have such a hard on for the driveline in the polaris....The only thing I can say isnt bullet proof is the front diff with a plastic sprague...however that is an easy fix. I am unsure if they were trying to create a "fuse" if you will....or if it were a price point thing..".

I have no idea whether you are a Polaris sponsored 1900 class racer or not...yet these old eyes reading the above would come to the conclusion that you've proven my point.
1) We know the difference between a driveline built to last and those constantly screaming at you that they indeed aren't.
2) "Price point" (grinding metal) or "Fuses" (complete failure) translate in to "easy fixes" only in fantasyland or outside the average owner out here's sense of properly engineered or even physical/financial reality.
3) See #1 for "nice try".

The above is obviously your opinion.
I simply don't believe that a lot of us 'mere long time customers' out here are agreeing with you in terms of the N/As or Turbos when it comes to these front diffs., the non-serviceable clutches in the N/As, the tranny bearing failures or for that matter the crappy drive shafts, approach angles. mounts, midship bearings, (insert other commonly failing driveline component here because I'm old and easily forget).

This is why I'm not the only one here suggesting that the OP either cool his heels and simply wait or possibly test drive something else for the time being with even geared transmissions suddenly catching up (possibly) with the horsepower/torque that we all crave.

Yet then again, these similar first hand opinions are originating from those who don't give a rip what Polaris has to say on any given day (or not)...and often from many years of experience dealing with their products and service departments all across this great country (including Minnesota).
 
Last edited:
As much as it pains me I have to agree with Bigg Jim......I have not had a driveline failure either but u joints get pretty floppy over time. But that's a u joint that's seen a lot of pretty abrasive silt. As Jim said no phasing. Have two actually and put new u joints in the older one just because. Seems to me the average Joe is pounding their SXS in a different way. Rock crawling and mud have to be killers on components worse than the desert in some ways. That said I agree Polaris could tighten up their QC. I've never owned anything less capable out of the box for what it can potentially do. About the only thing a stock XP can do well is short course and maybe not that. Ironically I never had trans issues till I put ceramic bearings in and the input shaft failed after 200 miles. Went to Koyo and Air Dam clutch brace and so far no issues. I also started using AMSOIL synthetic gear lube which I'm not endorsing just yet......350 mi isn't enough considering I had 1000 mi on the OEM.

Based on my experience I'd say trans, motor, and driveline are ok. Everytime I use reverse I picture a skinny ass chain driving a gear and my whole body tensed up. The front diff I'm not sure. Those funky little springs look like junk and whoever made the decision to go with a plastic sprague should be fired! What a bonehead decision for a few pennies saved.
 
As much as it pains me I have to agree with Bigg Jim......I have not had a driveline failure either but u joints get pretty floppy over time. But that's a u joint that's seen a lot of pretty abrasive silt. As Jim said no phasing. Have two actually and put new u joints in the older one just because. Seems to me the average Joe is pounding their SXS in a different way. Rock crawling and mud have to be killers on components worse than the desert in some ways. That said I agree Polaris could tighten up their QC. I've never owned anything less capable out of the box for what it can potentially do. About the only thing a stock XP can do well is short course and maybe not that. Ironically I never had trans issues till I put ceramic bearings in and the input shaft failed after 200 miles. Went to Koyo and Air Dam clutch brace and so far no issues. I also started using AMSOIL synthetic gear lube which I'm not endorsing just yet......350 mi isn't enough considering I had 1000 mi on the OEM.

Based on my experience I'd say trans, motor, and driveline are ok. Everytime I use reverse I picture a skinny ass chain driving a gear and my whole body tensed up. The front diff I'm not sure. Those funky little springs look like junk and whoever made the decision to go with a plastic sprague should be fired! What a bonehead decision for a few pennies saved.

Cody won the Lucas oil championship in our STOCK shop car 2 seasons ago. It only had safety gear and our suspension package. The engine, tranny, diff, driveline, and clutches lasted all season and he consistently stayed on the podium.

Again, the driveline and front diff are the least of my worries when we go to a race event. The front diff problems that we have had I believe are most likely self inflicted from the mechanic over tightening the bolts.

The abuse our driver puts on our race car has got to be equivalent to double or triple the mileage a recreational user would give it. He drives the wheels off this car every race.
 
As for the everyday Joe that thinks he drives as hard and long like the racers of BITD & SCORE you don't have a clue, Joe might hit the gas hard for 10 to 15 min straight chasing his buddies around but then he's off the skinny pedal.

The bottom line is if a machine can hold up to what the racers are doing to it.....It should live a long long time for the average Joe. ( With the normal preventive maintenance )
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
17,309
Messages
179,411
Members
12,150
Latest member
avakalanaya
Back
Top