Yamaha New clutch sheave... now won't run...

avery4jc

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New clutch sheave... now won't run...**movie posted on post 17** PROBLEM SOLVED!

EDIT: I have posted a movie on post 17.


Hi everyone. I have a 660 rhino that ran like a champ. Started easy, idled great and was smooth all the way to full throttle, never any hesitation.

I pulled the clutch sheave apart and swapped it for a JBS sheave with new weights. I also pulled the assembly off the transmission side and changed to the recommended spring.

Put it all back together and now it won't run worth a darn. Here's the odd part. If I put my hand over the intake it'll sit there and idle. As soon as I start to let it get more air it sputters and dies.

So I'm thinking it's a tuning issue now. (Seems like it's lean).
Anyone ever ran into needing tuning after changing a sheave? Seems odd but I'm new to UTV's so I don't know what's normal. Thanks!
 
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It's on, it sucks air through a round opening in the plastic housing which is what I'm putting my hand over.
 
Check the fuel filter and pickup line in the tank.. My old rhino have a piece of trash in the tank and would run fine then suck up the trash and die..
 
Stock carb that's been jetted. I thought jetting issue too except it ran perfect before and instantly didn't. If it was getting bad over time I'd look into other stuff but because it was an instant type of deal I know something is plugged up or something got unplugged (if you follow my logic). :)
I'm tied up with work and school but should have time this weekend to look at it closer. I'll start by swapping the fuel filter and I'll pull the carb and clean it out really well.

I disconnected the fuel feed line on the carb and cranked the starter and fuel came burping out, not sure how much it's supposed to flow but it seemed like quite a bit came out so I'm guessing the fuel pump is good. Maybe there is enough fuel to idle but nothing more.
 
Hi everyone. I have a 660 rhino that ran like a champ. Started easy, idled great and was smooth all the way to full throttle, never any hesitation.

I pulled the clutch sheave apart and swapped it for a JBS sheave with new weights. I also pulled the assembly off the transmission side and changed to the recommended spring.

Put it all back together and now it won't run worth a darn. Here's the odd part. If I put my hand over the intake it'll sit there and idle. As soon as I start to let it get more air it sputters and dies.

So I'm thinking it's a tuning issue now. (Seems like it's lean).
Anyone ever ran into needing tuning after changing a sheave? Seems odd but I'm new to UTV's so I don't know what's normal. Thanks!

How long was it down for? Changing the sheave wont mess up the jetting so for some reason it seems to be running lean. If it sat for a while the carbs might need cleaning.
 
How long was it down for? Changing the sheave wont mess up the jetting so for some reason it seems to be running lean. If it sat for a while the carbs might need cleaning.

It was only a couple of days. Drove it around the neighborhood and it ran normal. Pulled it into the garage and pulled the sheave. A day or two passed while I was busy. I tried to fire it up and it wouldn't run but I thought maybe it was due to no load and it was just that picky. Put the new sheave and everything back together and here we are. I tried starting it tonight on my way through the garage after work and it'll sit there and bump along at idle but as soon as you hit the gas it dies.
 
Had a little time tonight so I pulled the carb and thoroughly cleaned it. Pulled it completely apart, pulled the jets and the AF needle and sprayed it all out. Reassembled and it runs exactly the same way as before. I'm really getting stumped on this one.
 
I would try a different fuel pump maybe someone has one you can try out? My rhino ran great one day and then the next day it wouldn't run. pump went bad over night i guess lol :D
 
Im thinking you still got a wire or something loose somewhere. Also how tight is the cvt belt.

It's tight, only has a few trips on it. I fired it up without the belt while working on it but I don't think that could hurt anything.

I would try a different fuel pump maybe someone has one you can try out? My rhino ran great one day and then the next day it wouldn't run. pump went bad over night i guess lol :D

I'm with ya on fuel, I've never had a side by side so even though I pulled the feed line and it pumped fuel I don't have anything to compare it to. It could be pumping slow and I wouldn't know. My friend suggested tonight I look for a vacuum leak. He said a leak would cause a lean condition which is what I'm experiencing.
 
It has a carb and not fuel injection. If the fuel pump is working at all, turn the key to the on position for several seconds to let the carb bowl fill up. Now start it and immediately try to drive it. If it runs good for several seconds then dies out, the pump is not keeping up.

If it doesn't run good right at startup it is probably electrical. Loose spark plug wire, ect.
 
It has a carb and not fuel injection. If the fuel pump is working at all, turn the key to the on position for several seconds to let the carb bowl fill up. Now start it and immediately try to drive it. If it runs good for several seconds then dies out, the pump is not keeping up.

If it doesn't run good right at startup it is probably electrical. Loose spark plug wire, ect.

This vehicle has a carburetor and a mechanical pump so the key on thing wont work. Your post did remind me of an issue I had with my Rhino were the inside of the spark plug cap came apart though.
Pull the spark plug cap off and take a thin flat blade screw driver and make sure the small piece that slides over the top of the plug is tight in the cap. Mine actually fell apart and the spring and small retainer piece were laying down in the head. I had to use a mirror to see down in there and fish the 2 pieces out. I hope this helps.
 
I was thinking it was an electrical pump. In that case just hook up a gravity feed fuel supply and give it a try. No need to replace the pump to diagnose it.

Year ago I worked at a parts store during collage. I swear 50% of the fuel pumps we sold would come back trying to return it as new but stinking of fuel. All the back alley mexican garages in the area considered giving new parts a test run as the way to diagnose a problem.:rolleyes:
 
Pulled the vacuum diaphragm apart on top of the carb to check it for leaks/cracks/pinholes and it looked perfect. I put it all back together and it's still the same.
Pulled the plug wire and inspected the boot and locking tab that holds it in place. Looked great and makes an audible snap sound when you push it over the plug.

I'm incredibly stumped on this. I filmed it so you guys can see. It's hard to tell exactly what's going on from this but hopefully it helps. It's so loud in the garage the audio all sounds the same but listen close and notice when I cover the intake it revs up pretty well. When I do the same thing with the throttle but leave the intake uncovered it hesitates and has a very hard time even getting the belt half way up the sheave.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zG9FWb6KmfU
 
Re: New clutch sheave... now won't run...**movie posted on post 17**

Are all the intake connections tight and seated properly. I had my teryx do something similar and one of the carbs wasnt seated all the way in.
 
Re: New clutch sheave... now won't run...**movie posted on post 17**

Are all the intake connections tight and seated properly. I had my teryx do something similar and one of the carbs wasnt seated all the way in.

Yes, I pulled the air box out and checked it and the boot for cracks and checked the boots on both ends of the carb.
 
Re: New clutch sheave... now won't run...**movie posted on post 17**

No chance the exhaust is some how plugged up?
 

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