dezerteryx
Active Member
Were did u get the billet rail?
Burnett RZR Burns To Ground
- Thread starter JoeyD23
- Start date
george.felix
George
Race Proven Motors.
+1 (818) 775-0337
+1 (818) 775-0337
sand shark
Well-Known Member
That Raceproven set up looks nice.
If the fuel rail is the issue, or at least one of the causes, and the racers have seen it first hand, why has Polaris not offered a recall or fix?
If the fuel rail is the issue, or at least one of the causes, and the racers have seen it first hand, why has Polaris not offered a recall or fix?
dezerteryx
Active Member
I dont think they have ever done a recall. I personally will not drive my rzr till I get the billet kit installed.
JoeyD23
#utvunderground
Race Proven Motors "fire prevention kit" for Polaris RZR 1K. Features billet aluminum fuel rail, stainless steel braided hose with factory quick disconnect fittings and steel adaptor fittings. Eliminates the stock multi piece fuel rail that is prone to cracking under heavy vibration. As many of you know this has caused many catastrophic fires!!! Can be also configured for return style fuel systems with adjustable fuel pressure regulator for turbo applications.
The price for the billet rail is $95 and the braided line with fittings is $125. You can email sales@raceprovenmotors.com or call 877-turbo-11 Unfortunately our Rzr site is down because Polaris had a problem with us using the words "Rzr and Xp" together.
The price for the billet rail is $95 and the braided line with fittings is $125. You can email sales@raceprovenmotors.com or call 877-turbo-11 Unfortunately our Rzr site is down because Polaris had a problem with us using the words "Rzr and Xp" together.
dezertBandito
Member
im buying a fire extinguiser or 2....
dezerteryx
Active Member
Just ordered the kit
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
george.felix
George
I have a halon system I used it once needs to be refilled. Kinda pricey to refill. Let me know if your interested in it.
Ignore Amos
Active Member
Going with a couple of bottles of water and a bucket of dirt for fire suppression instead?
george.felix
George
Going with a couple of bottles of water and a bucket of dirt for fire suppression instead?
Just roll the car a few times the fire goes out.
acme
Active Member
RE the post on FIRE BOTTLES AND SYSTEMS: This was on RDC a while back, probably before most of you started racing...
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/danzio-video-fire-fire-fire.70780/
The best systems for what we do are the wet systems. Halon only works if the space is enclosed as it depletes the oxygen and in an open, tube chassis car with lots of air it's hard for it to be effective.
We spent a ton of time researching and the ESS system was what we chose for our cars. Cost effective and it worked well and was very serviceable. Make sure the cell has a roll over and discriminator valve and multi layer suits, Nomex gloves and shoes are a must IMHO. We always carried 2 extinguishers on the outside and one inside. Rules call for one in and out but we've also tossed our extinguisher out to help others and it feels good knowing you have at least one left if you help someone plus we've watched numerous cars go up and maybe a 2nd or third might have helped... Also make sure you kill the ignition and batts at first sign of issues, if the fuel pump stays on, it will never go out.
The guys at ESS explained it best: The fire bottle system needs to protect the occupants and buy them time to get out and as a secondary thought hopefully it will extinguish the fire. Keep that in mind when plumbing your system. A class 1 car went up in Baja with a friend in the car: They got out but he got hung up in a seat belt and they could not shut down the batteries while hanging upside down. A knife or belt cutter is another good idea and for cars with the cell under the seats; you need to make sure the hose clamps, valves and routing are the best quality and done correctly as if you are hanging there you don't want it leaking onto you... Cody Reid rolled his 9 car early in his race career and his fuel cell leaked and soaked his helmet before he got out. No fire but it scared the crap out of all of us...
Glad to hear Marc is okay.
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/danzio-video-fire-fire-fire.70780/
The best systems for what we do are the wet systems. Halon only works if the space is enclosed as it depletes the oxygen and in an open, tube chassis car with lots of air it's hard for it to be effective.
We spent a ton of time researching and the ESS system was what we chose for our cars. Cost effective and it worked well and was very serviceable. Make sure the cell has a roll over and discriminator valve and multi layer suits, Nomex gloves and shoes are a must IMHO. We always carried 2 extinguishers on the outside and one inside. Rules call for one in and out but we've also tossed our extinguisher out to help others and it feels good knowing you have at least one left if you help someone plus we've watched numerous cars go up and maybe a 2nd or third might have helped... Also make sure you kill the ignition and batts at first sign of issues, if the fuel pump stays on, it will never go out.
The guys at ESS explained it best: The fire bottle system needs to protect the occupants and buy them time to get out and as a secondary thought hopefully it will extinguish the fire. Keep that in mind when plumbing your system. A class 1 car went up in Baja with a friend in the car: They got out but he got hung up in a seat belt and they could not shut down the batteries while hanging upside down. A knife or belt cutter is another good idea and for cars with the cell under the seats; you need to make sure the hose clamps, valves and routing are the best quality and done correctly as if you are hanging there you don't want it leaking onto you... Cody Reid rolled his 9 car early in his race career and his fuel cell leaked and soaked his helmet before he got out. No fire but it scared the crap out of all of us...
Glad to hear Marc is okay.
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