BITD Vegas to Reno Tips, Anyone going?

rupert14

Raber Racing - UTVUnderground Approved
I am preparing for the VTR this year. After a year and a half of Whiplash I am ready for some serious dezert racing. I have a Teryx that will make the journey. Here are the specs.

Weller 800 motor, same as Austin and Robert's but a lot less cam (+4 valves, pistons, rods, balanced, 39mm carbs, ignition, water impeller, etc etc)
Full chromoly chassis
Lowrance 5 or 7" GPS ( still trying to decide )
Power steering
Gear one rack
Summers bros axles
10" stroke dual rate fox shocks up front mounted to lower arm
10" stroke dual rate 2.5 internal bypass rear fox shocks
custom +4 arms
four 7" hid lights on the roof
two 4" hid lights up front
UTV crap alternator kit
full aluminum work, no original plastic except rear bed sides
fiberglass hood widened to fit the body
oil cooler with thermostat and fan
dual pass dual core radiator
PRP seats
5 point cam lock belts with sewn in pads
ITP beadlocks (12")
27" bighorn tires
tire balls (soon to come)
holes in the floor for the pee tubes (really custom!)
custom 14 gallon aluminum fuel cell mounted right above the rear diff
custom exhaust


Lots of hours

Since this is our first point to point race, I would appreciate any tips you can give.

I noticed some guys take out the front diff, axles etc. What do you guys recomend?

I am also contemplating ger one rear drive system. Is it really needed? I am asking because I have heard the rear hubs are the weak link not the axle shafts/cv's


I will post pics soon. The car is at aluminum so we still need to route the electrical and do some testing. It is getting close but I think we will make it. Two months to go!
 
Spare, spares and spares. Try and bring duplicate parts of everything you can afford from $1 parts to many spare tires. Sometimes, its the little things that fail. I hope you have a lot of friends that devote themselves to your pit crew. V2R you will need two chase trucks as you will likely beat one of the trucks to the next check...
 
Last year was 1000 miles. 550 miles this year we will take as many parts as we can fit into 2 chase trucks. We usally bring back up motor, diff's, axles, arms, 8 tires. Will be grt race cant wait.....:D like 57 days and counting !!!!!!!:eek:
 
I don't know what gives you the idea about removing the front diff but don't waste your time or money building special parts just to pull out the 4 wheel drive. Leave it is and drive it like you stole it. As for the rear uprights, gear one's are nice but we broke one in Baja at last years 500. I have never seen a stock one fail.

I agree with bringing as many spares as possible. Better to have and not use then to wish you had the $1.00 part that may keep you from finishing.

My race advice is to drive at Pre run speed and protect your equipement and you'll be in the top of your class!

Good luck!
 
I know of a couple guys (sappington, and HOLT racing) that run 2wd but I always wondered if it was really worth the weight when you are stuck in a silt bed or high centered in 2wd. I will keep all 4 turning.

I am planning on running the stock rear hubs and just bringing a spare. Likewise I plan to run the stock front spindles as they seem to be holding up well. Thanks for the input.

Here are some early build pics. The door bars are now an X with 1.5" .090 chromoly. The radiator in the photos is the stock one. I will get updated pics.
 

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You can actually chase this with one truck...but you will miss 2-3 pits (not good). So as said above, two chase trucks is ideal. Remember that chase vehicles are not allowed on the course so spare parts must either be carried on the race vehicle or carried on course by a BITD official or another racer. So spares are important, but you will lose tons of time if they have to be carried in. 4wd is the way to go! If this is your first BITD race, go for a finish and with this pace, you will be amazed at how well you do. And remember to have fun. :)
 
I know of a couple guys (sappington, and HOLT racing) that run 2wd but I always wondered if it was really worth the weight when you are stuck in a silt bed or high centered in 2wd. I will keep all 4 turning.

I am planning on running the stock rear hubs and just bringing a spare. Likewise I plan to run the stock front spindles as they seem to be holding up well. Thanks for the input.

Here are some early build pics. The door bars are now an X with 1.5" .090 chromoly. The radiator in the photos is the stock one. I will get updated pics.

She is looking good. Have a blast and race your race. There will be people out there if help is needed for whatever. The guys and gals out there in BITD are great group of peolpe. oh ya and get plenty of test time before she rolls 550 miles;)
 
Good to see more Teryx's out there, from your list, a couple things, Camlock belts are not allowed according to BITD rules (i think you mean the style of belt where they all plug into a center peice) they state they must be a latch type. I know a few people that have had problems now with the alternator kits failing in the harsh desert, may not be an issue depending on the finishing time of the race where you may need lights. Also scrap your ITP's, VtoR will eat them up. I have 4 shattered from one 160 mile race, and we blew 3 more in Fallon. They are chinese cast Junk. The only way ITP's may work is to Run bead stiffeners and tireballs, but with 12" wheels you have no room for bead stiffeners. Don't mean to be direct but they will ruin your race. We are running Walker evens wheels with our own inside stiffeners. Otherwise good looking car!!
 
Go with the OMF's or get a set of Hiper Wheels. They are sponsor on the site and will give you a member discount!!! I have the DWT Rockstar wheels with OMF beadlocks and they are sick as well!
 
Go with the OMF's or get a set of Hiper Wheels. They are sponsor on the site and will give you a member discount!!! I have the DWT Rockstar wheels with OMF beadlocks and they are sick as well!


I called Hiper twice and left a message. That sounds like a great wheel, expensive but strong.
 
I have six 12" OMF beadlocks for sale (cheap), but they are a Ranger/RZR bolt pattern. Don't think they will work.
 
I don't know what gives you the idea about removing the front diff but don't waste your time or money building special parts just to pull out the 4 wheel drive. Leave it is and drive it like you stole it. As for the rear uprights, gear one's are nice but we broke one in Baja at last years 500. I have never seen a stock one fail.

I agree with bringing as many spares as possible. Better to have and not use then to wish you had the $1.00 part that may keep you from finishing.

My race advice is to drive at Pre run speed and protect your equipement and you'll be in the top of your class!

Good luck!
x2 good luck good race and god speed.
 
I am running 14" wheels, I have a truck load of 14" tires from our sponsor so not much choice, plus my new wheels we are running some pretty serious bead stiffeners on the inside bead so 12" is almost out of the questions, especially with my own designed LT suspension that runs 7/8" uniballs. I've had quite a few talks with Walker evans about their wheels and with the stiffeners were putting on I think that puts us in the ballpark. Ya the choices are much better with 12" wheels thats for sure!!
 
It is getting a dash as we speak, and it will be out for 100 miles of testing the first weekend in August. Here are some pics of the custom fuel cell he made. Shad told me it was between 14 and 15 gallons after we factor in the foam and bladder. It will make it.
 

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I called Hiper twice and left a message. That sounds like a great wheel, expensive but strong.


I finally reached Hiper and they gave me a screaming deal when I told them about being a member here and agreed to run their stickers on my trailer and teryx. I am getting 6 wheels 12" with 3" backspacing. Those combined with tire balls and 27" bighorns and I should be fine with tires. I will have a few extra just for spares.

How do I get a tire sponsor anyway?
 
Mike, ya we should make it try to get 100 test miles. she is almost done at aluminum, then paint. hope to get it back end of 1st week in August.
 
Mike, ya we should make it try to get 100 test miles. she is almost done at aluminum, then paint. hope to get it back end of 1st week in August.

Where is the build thread for that four seater? My friends are asking about it and I can't remember where I saw it. You were running a big tank, something like 17 or 18 gallons right? I think the room in that thing is awesome. How do you polaris guys get around the diff breaking thing? I checked your facebook but did not see a link to a build thread.
 

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