I never thought about it having no lo-range until now. Perhaps the thinking is that this is no farm tractor. The body work,suspension, and styling in general say this UTE is "all play". I would assume that 1st gear is low enough to grunt up hills. After all, it has 5 forward gears. I picture the torque first gear has on bikes,quads or atv's, and think it would be suffice for the ute if it were comparable. There's where the clutch becomes an asset for sure. Starting from a dead stop on a steep hill.No ratios or max speed in each gear available yet. Judging by the size of the trans and Yamaha build quality, I would think the trans is plenty strong. The small axles are what have me worried! I would want to turbo it and run 30" tires. I'm gonna hold off on purchasing till I see real world results of people running larger tires. I'm also still real concerned about the lack of a low range.
Here's a good, clear image I came across of the rear suspension. At first glance, I noticed that the rear a arm pivots are not parallel to the wheelbase. Maybe 15% off or so. I don't understand why this is done. On the Yammy, or the Can-am. If anyone knows the dynamics of this, please chime in.
The shock motion ratio appears to be between .57 and .6. Far better than the front, that's for sure, but still needing improvement to withstand severe punishment for prolonged periods of time. Throw a 12" stroke shock in front of the axle, and get 18" of travel at .66. Comparatively speaking, the BAM ran 16" stroke shocks in the rear, allowing a cool .83 motion ratio and19 1/4" of reliable wheel travel. The lower front spherical bearing will be a high wear item, as the joint will be articulating with every bump, as the mounting bolt to the frame is not parallel to the rear pivot. The lower frame rails where the load carrying arm pivots from is in desperate need of support as well. And, what about that hokey "hoop" for an upper arm? Manufacturing considerations are hard at work there! Lucky that the SCORE/BITD rules allow you to break the single pivot up into 2 separate pivots. As long as you don't move outboard of the existing tabs, and retain the factory outboard tab location, you can add a second tab to the inside of the factory tabs creating 2 separate pivots. Then you can 86 that 12" long piece of steel the arm pivots on. When Madigan first made their a arms for the front of the XP's, they tried reducing the dimension between the stock pivot tabs to avoid that stupid tie rod bridge on the upper arm. BITD called 'em on it, and those arms were not allowed to race.
Yes indeed. The only shock limitation is that you run 1 coil over shock per wheel, and mount it directly to the a-arm, and to the frame. You can locate or angle the coilover as you see fit. You can also run longer shocks if you choose. We ran Fox's truck bypass shocks on the BAM. 16" & 14" strokers in the rear and front respectively.Would a shock tower up front to change the angle and leverage of suspension be OK in the racing world like BITD
Before any press releases, I heard that the car was going to have an R1 engine in it. I assumed the 3 cylinder in the YXZ was one. It's not? Haha. Shows you what I know about engines. This is why I am skeptical to offer anything pertaining to the operation of the motor, 'cause I don't know jack about them! Please, further educate me on the platform they are using in the YXZ. What other vehicles it came in, and how was the power transmitted to the axles (or tread).Oh, and by R1, I'm assuming you are referring to the YXZ 1000R? Or the engine?
As much as I would like to go all out and build it to the hilt, I will most likely do something along the lines of a +3 1/2" or 4"kit. I will almost for sure be relocating the shocks. At least the front. I'll need to see the car before I decide on the rear or not. The front steer conversion is based on the bump steer the car has stock. I'll know more when I get a chance to cycle it the suspension.SUBSCRIBED! to a future classic thread.
Plan is for an XZY next spring.
Racing - short, medium, WORCS style and maybe some "smaller" desert races. No SCORE. / BITD yet.
From what I have seen / watched/ read, hear are initial observations from the Internet.
Your business plan - you need to be the genius of design, there are lots of resources to do the "making". Make it bolt on and for the DIY crowd. There will be plenty of mega $ builds. Make your product like Bad Asses and functional vs bling. Sell it as bare steel - let the buyer chose their color, powder coating is easy to have done anywhere.
Potential products:
Front chassis brace
Real dual rate springs & valving.
Trans oil cooler
Bolt on cage w/ B pillar brace
Stout holder.
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By all means Brian, this thread is a learning thread for us all. Jump right in and correct me if you see that anything I post is inaccurate (even if it does make me look like a dousche. Haha!) I love learning, and sharing what I've learned is most valuable only if it's accurate. At any expense. Besides, unlike the Monstermav Chronicles, I have no clear direction where this thread is heading other than sharing my knowledge and the design mod's I will perform on the Yammy (and of course to expose the mod's to the public for possible future sales).Yamaha has great manuals, and the factory book should have all the specs for the transmission, and probably some good diagrams, too. The unit is beginning to look very impressive, it even appears to not only be pressure fed, but also has an oil spray bar directing lube directly onto the gears where they mesh.... no basic splash lube here... that is real high performance race car stuff right there.
Reid, if you feel I'm getting off track on where you want this thread to go, please do tell me. Some of this is pretty exciting sh*t to be buying right off the show room floor... I tend to get caught up in discussing it.
Brian
I don't know who Correy Weller is. Can you enlighten me? and: How did she get a car so quickly?I read every stupid paragraph in those docs! Nothing on gear ratios.
I asked Correy Weller to post up the max speed in each gear. Their car is being worked on right now, so hopefully she'll post it up when it's back together.
Damn! You must live in the mountains or something!!! LolI don't know who Correy Weller is. Can you enlighten me? and: How did she get a car so quickly?
Yeah Hans, that stands to reason on a beam front end, or on a class 1 or 5 car with their massive rear trailing arms swept back 70 degrees or so. But on a sweep of less than 15 or 20 degrees, don't you think the ramifications of the wheelbase changing throughout the travel, and the handling issues that result from it, exceed the benefit of less shock to components as a result of a slight sweeping of the pivot axis? I can buy into that theory on the older Mavericks, as they swept back 35 degrees. Consider also that for about 30% of the wheel travel, the arm is swinging back forward. Hmm, that's definitely a tough one to buy into. Can you elaborate upon it a bit more?Both the front and rear suspension pick up points appear to be angled back so when you hit a bump the suspension cycles up and back. I checked one out at Ride Now today and they are pretty nice.
Yeah Hans, that stands to reason on a beam front end, or on a class 1 or 5 car with their massive rear trailing arms swept back 70 degrees or so. But on a sweep of less than 15 or 20 degrees, don't you think the ramifications of the wheelbase changing throughout the travel, and the handling issues that result from it, exceed the benefit of less shock to components as a result of a slight sweeping of the pivot axis? I can buy into that theory on the older Mavericks, as they swept back 35 degrees. Consider also that for about 30% of the wheel travel, the arm is swinging back forward. Hmm, that's definitely a tough one to buy into. Can you elaborate upon it a bit more?
GF, I feel a rant coming on. Please don't feel that I am trying to argue, or berate your point. It is not my intention. I am thankful for your participation in all of my threads, and your knowledge of our sport in general far exceeds mine. But the technology I build by is quantifiable, and is difficult to dispute. Eventually, builders of these cars will need to be more disciplined, or risk being left behind.This is from Mountainperformance .com
"14 years’ experience with this engine: This is the 7th generation of this type of multi-cylinder engine and the 4th generation of this particular 3 cylinder design. We have produced products for all 7 generations."
From what I've read, this 3 cylinder started as the FJ1300 with one cylinder lopped off. It's main use has been in snowmobiles, and maybe wave runners? The 3 cylinder produces more torque then a same sized 4 cylinder.
R1 is their street bike motor, and the Apex snowmobile motor was based on it.
In one of the YXZ vids, a Yamaha guy says the a arms angled back gives a up and back motion. A VW trailing arm goes up and back, call it a 90* angle. So with these mounted at say 15*, then they are getting 15% of the 90% motion. That sounds like crap in my mind, but I think you'll get what I'm saying.
Something else of interest, I'm sure you won't like it, but the two pictures below shows the suspension near top out and bottom out. By looking at them I would say that the suspension in the front actually does have what I call rising rate because fully topped out the shocks are on a 25° angle, and fully bottomed out the socks are at a 45° angle. Not the 90° angle that I would like to see it at full bottom. But at least it is making the dampening and spring rates stiffer as a compresses.