The Mad Viking Project

madviking

Member
Welcome to my build-up of a 2014 Yamaha Viking. I purchased the unit new last fall, and covered a whopping 21 miles before placing it in the garage for the winter snowmobile season. For those unfamiliar, the stock 686cc thumper is a lightly warmed over Rhino/Grizzly engine, and it produces a tad under 50hp. The chassis is an excellent mid-wheelbase unit that is begging for more power and suspension. I heavily considered building the 686 using an Aisin AMR 500 Roots Supercharger, titanium intake and stainless exhaust valves, etc etc. After riding my Yamaha Nytro this winter, I knew the 686 would have to go, and a Yamaha 1049cc triple would be the power plant of choice.

Last week I found a 2013 Yamaha Vector Snowmobile being parted out. The Vector uses a very slightly detuned Nytro engine, it has different cams than the Nytro, but essentially everything else is the same. It looses 5 hp up top, 130 vs 135, and likely has a fatter torque curve in the low and mid, which is beneficial for a side x side.

The transmission to be used is a Yamaha VK Pro/Viking Snowmobile H/L/R unit, and the whole assembly will mount longitudinally.

Another really excellent thing about the Vector, is that it comes with electric power steering just like the ATV and UTV models. The wire harness and PS parts are all coming with the engine, and I suspect that I will able to integrate this into the Viking. The Vector and Grizzly and actually share some power steering parts, the drive motor being the most notable, and have the same harness plug ins. I'm hopeful whatever combo of parts I end up using will be able to communicate with the Vector ecu and make for a very tidy and capable install.

The suspension for this season will likely use stock arms and of course use Ohlins Shocks, since I work heavily with them for many custom applications. Travel will be an adequate 12", but the tuning will make it be able to run in larger company. The Ohlins Shocks I frequently use have the PDS/Progressive Damping System, which is similar to, and predates by many years, the Fox BOC system.

I'll add pictures and info as it becomes available or requested. Questions, comments, and criticisms welcome.
 
The meat and potatoes of the swap has arrived. It doesn't look like much all laid out on the floor. Check out the gauges, the tachometer face measures 4.25"/108mm, so it will be easy to read while tuning the clutch.
 

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The chain case is at the machine shop having a hole machined for the front output. Then on to front and rear output shafts with their associated joints.

In other news...

I'm lightly considering developing a wet clutch w/ constant tension belt.

More braking power will be required, but it would be nice to keep the 12" wheel size. A 221 x 10 mm internally vented rotor has been procured (a real hens tooth, very expensive). I do have concerns that mud could clog some of the vanes and create heat issues, but that remains to be seen... nothing ventured, nothing gained.
 

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Ohlins TTX44 shocks. 4 way adjustable in damping, PDS Progressive Damping System, cavitation free due to design. :cool:

PDS is a secondary piston and cylinder/cup which works as a hydraulic bump stop. It can be seen in the second photo.
 

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Whoo yeah updates! That's exciting keep it coming! What kind of tires are you planning to run? It defiantly seems like you could get away with big tires since the Viking has a pretty large presence in stock form





Sent from a PRC-117 held together by boot bands and hopeful thinking
 
Tires are 27" STI Black Diamond XTR, a local dealer gave them to me at cost, so I figured why not try them. The wheels are tried and true 12" Douglas Red Labels converted to outer bead lock w/ inner reinforcement rings.
 
here is my other question, is what is your primary style of riding? I think the viking would be very suited to like jeep trails and such.
 
Short answer, everything. There are plenty of 4x4 trails around, but New England trails really encompass many styles. While the Viking can crawl on technical terrain very well, which it will still be used for, it is also extremely stable, reactive, and quite a blast on the many class 4/forest service roads we have. The chassis is absolutely screaming for more power.
 
The front output has been machined (bottom of pic). A simple collar was machined and pressed into place to hold the seal.
 

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Wheel travel is good, but the 27's need a little more room at full compression. I never thought I would be considering tubbing a bed on a UTV. Yes, the bed is staying, it's part of keeping things sleeper-ish.
 

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