I called OMF but their premium wheels were 3X the cost of the Hiper wheels and the Hipers are 3X stronger than aluminum. I have run OMF's in the past and they have a great product.
Teryx Vegas to Reno progress pics
- Thread starter rupert14
- Start date
Team Green
Reid Nordin - UTVUnderground Approved
Re: new airbox, rear bed coming along
Nice looking work!
If I were you I would ditch the hard cooling lines that run between the cylinders. You'd be better off with 2010 parts but be aware that racing vibration will cause those hard lines to crack at the mount or where the are mated together. At the very least reweld every seam and joint.
Also I would mount the shift tower to the engine so it is isolated from the frame and will move with the engine and not come out of adjustment.
Nice looking work!
If I were you I would ditch the hard cooling lines that run between the cylinders. You'd be better off with 2010 parts but be aware that racing vibration will cause those hard lines to crack at the mount or where the are mated together. At the very least reweld every seam and joint.
Also I would mount the shift tower to the engine so it is isolated from the frame and will move with the engine and not come out of adjustment.
Re: new airbox, rear bed coming along
Do the 2010 parts solve this problem and I better with them or cutting the hard lines and using a rubber line of some sort? Just tell me the best fix, I dont' want this to take me out of the race.
Do the 2010 parts solve this problem and I better with them or cutting the hard lines and using a rubber line of some sort? Just tell me the best fix, I dont' want this to take me out of the race.
Team Green
Reid Nordin - UTVUnderground Approved
2010 parts are good but since you are running diifferent lines to your radiator you can modify some of your cooling parts. I would still reweld any stock fittings even if you cut them down. I wish I had some pictures to show you but I don't. Always better to overkill in a big race like this.
Wasatch Quad
Wasatch You Sayin'? - UTVUnderground Approved
Lookin Good!
This is some SICK tin work!!
I really like what your doing on your build, nice work!!!
Attachments
Re: new airbox, rear bed coming along
Yes, the black steel tube that connects the rear cylinder to the thermostat is the one that we have had issues with. The tab that holds the 8mm bolt will sheer at the tube where it is spot welded. We welded AN fittings on the motor to solve the problem...
Yes, the black steel tube that connects the rear cylinder to the thermostat is the one that we have had issues with. The tab that holds the 8mm bolt will sheer at the tube where it is spot welded. We welded AN fittings on the motor to solve the problem...
Team Green
Reid Nordin - UTVUnderground Approved
Agreed, I have seen the mounting bolt fall out of the thermo housing and I have seen the fitting break. welded AN fitting would be the best way to eliminate any issues.
Well, since the motor is already assembled and we need to head out for testing, I don't think it is a good idea to weld to the motor. Did you guys do it when it was taken apart? If I don't weld the AN fittings now, do you think it is a good idea to cut the solid line, connect it with a rubber line, and tig the bracket onto the tube stronger?
I am really bummed that we are not out testing now but we hope to get out next week. I don't want to show up with a virgin car.
I am really bummed that we are not out testing now but we hope to get out next week. I don't want to show up with a virgin car.
Team Green
Reid Nordin - UTVUnderground Approved
Yes, welding on the fittings before it is assembled is the only real good way to do it. You can weld onto the thermo housing however if you wanted to. That would stop that from being an issue.
Don't cut your testing short, do everything you can to get in some quality break in time. At the KOH event, Crowley and I broke in the car real well but we still had one of those fitting problems. After testing make sure there is time to tear down and inspect everything you can.
Best of luck!
Don't cut your testing short, do everything you can to get in some quality break in time. At the KOH event, Crowley and I broke in the car real well but we still had one of those fitting problems. After testing make sure there is time to tear down and inspect everything you can.
Best of luck!
Well, we had to pull out of the race today. The aluminum took 6 days longer than contracted and the electrical guy is behind by a day also. We all have the week off to do testing and shock valving but there is no time for that now and we don't want to take a car directly from the shop to the dezert. Best of luck guys!!
OFFROADSWAPMEET
Active Member
This sucks...
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