Solutions for blowing belts - Maverick

Madjaz

New Member
I live in South Africa and am racing my Can-Am Maverick in our local championship. There is not much support here from Can-Am as there is in the USA or Canada. We are running the stock CVT, spring and belt.
We have fitted a temp gauge for the belt but we keep on breaking/shredding belts after 100 miles of use. We have added a fan kit and also channeled more air to flow through the inlet piping to the CVT. We have just blown another belt this previous weekend at a race. I am at a point where I don’t know what to do. Could you please give me information on how to stop this problem.
 
Good to hear you have installed a belt temp sensor...the factory recommends all racers updating to a Turbo Clutch set up..and a Turbo Clutch cover which significantly blows more air through the clutching area.. lastly you can install a Air blower that is ducted into the secondary portion of the clutch cover which you can manually turn on when the belt starts getting to warm (between 190-200). When you see your temps getting near 200... its been our experience to get out of the gas to let the belt cool.. who dont have to do this for long as they cool quickly.
 
Madjaz,
Check out this link to the Maverick forum.. There are a few Racers there that can give you some answers, that might help you out..
http://www.maverickforums.net/

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I would be looking at a clutch kit and getting even more cool air into the CVT housing. If you can retro-fit the turbo clutch, ducting and cover onto your Maverick, that would be your best bet.
 
It's not only getting the cool air in, it's about getting the heat out to prevent as much heat soak on the entire cvt system as possible.
 
Polaris had the same look on their face when the spent over a million dollars to title sponsor a race and an underdog can am team won it.

Spent over a million dollars??? lol you guys are funny. Your bitterness towards Polaris obviously clouds your reality and fills you with misinformation.
 
the dual intake is standard on all the 2014.5+ model mavericks. and honestly it does not help the machines cooling in the CVT. the stock maverick clutch is just a step above garbage. it produces more heat than you can imagine. it wont backshift under loads, and you cant put any spring or weight combination in this world to fix the stock mavericks clutch problems. they will always produce more heat than you can possibly remedy. having 15 air intakes to the clutches wont fit the heat problem. you can put an industrial 10" blower on the clutch, moving a million CFM, and it will still blow belts. the belts are blowing because of the load on the clutch, which produces heat. you can pour liquid nitrogen in the clutch housing and keep the ambient temps down to -0- degrees, and the load will still be on the clutch and it will still blow belts.

the only way to fix the clutch is to make it more efficient. get rid of the problems, and reasons it builds heat. then you dont need 42 clutch snorkel tubes.
 
word on the street was that the polaris sponsorship package for the mint was $1,000,000 to become the title sponsor. so...... yeah...... they spent a cool million to sponsor the event
 
Time for a few facts:
Heat is what causes belt failure.
The XP clutch is a larger diameter and wider center spacing - leading to less heat creation.
The Maverick XRS stock secondary that has poor backshift capability - leading to bogging, slipping and then heat.
More ducts only help get rid of heat, but the goal is to reduce the creation of heat.
Prep the belts correctly to remove the manufacuring and storage oils.
For the secondary - swap to a roller design (STM or the stock XDS)
Primary - not as critical. Stock works just fine. STM is nice until it goes boom. Team/QRS/CVT/ XYZ are a locked designed, each stating they are the best.
We run:
Stock XRS primary, STM Gen1 secondary, 45 helix, gold spring.
We are going to try a white spring in the primary, and 40 degree helix next.
We have had great reliability, as had many racers and duners with this set up.
And thanks to Polaris for the huge marketing budget to promote SxS racing.
 
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the white EPI spring coil binds and will lock the primary up at full shift. i would recommend against it. also, the 40 degree and gold spring is a bit stiff for desert racing. you will see your belt temps drop from better backshifting, and belt temps run in the 160 range and still blow every 100 hard miles. heat is not the only thing that blows belts.
 

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