Loose lugnuts
- Thread starter badassmav
- Start date
crazywatson
#13 - UTVUnderground Approved
Sounds like you need a set of Bad Ass hubs! Makes me feel good to contribute. I guess even a broke clock is right once a day. Lol
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Atpalmer
Member
badassmav
Well-Known Member
Ha ha! I am never done learning. Don't let me fool you. I'm pretty good at word-smithing! Your contribution to this thread has got me thinking. I don't have any machining capabilities here, but I can make a center sleeve that clamps in place using the 32mm hub retaining nut, and has the same diameter as our wheel's center hole. It would suffice as a locating device enough to remove much of the lateral loading to the wheel studs. I'll figure something out before the 500, and post my creation.
badassmav
Well-Known Member
We tried using 242 loctite a couple of times, but the wheels still required re-torqueing after they settled in, which broke the bond of the loctite. Our biggest problem in the IV 250 was that I forgot to re-torque the lugs after the initial installation of the wheel. By the time I remembered, and radioed that fact to Marc during the race, the wheel had already begun to crack in the center section, and it was too late. Please, keep the comments coming. It is stimulating, and exercises my swollen brain
!!crazywatson
#13 - UTVUnderground Approved
Right on that's a good idea. I think they might be a good seller for a vendor that has the machines. I know UTV inc. Made some nice billet hubs for the 800 ' s that had horrible hubs. There hubs were nice I had a set and I've never seen one break.
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I assume these are stock production Can Am Maverick hubs? Are the other Can Am teams having the same issue? Do stock Can Am's have this issue? If NO, then why is this Maverick having this issue?
If the wheel IS coming loose because the hub face does not have a lip to help support the wheel, and is only supported by the studs. Could you chuck a hub in a lathe and cut the face a 16th or 8th inch leaving a lip for the wheel to sit on? I dont know how thick the Can Am hubs are? To me this would be the simplest fix.
If the wheel IS coming loose because the hub face does not have a lip to help support the wheel, and is only supported by the studs. Could you chuck a hub in a lathe and cut the face a 16th or 8th inch leaving a lip for the wheel to sit on? I dont know how thick the Can Am hubs are? To me this would be the simplest fix.
badassmav
Well-Known Member
The stock Mavericks do not seem to share the same problem, but they are 6-700 lbs. lighter, and have 27" tall tires. The hubs are stock, and the wheel studs that BRP uses are integrated into the disc brake spacers that space the brake rotor off of the rear of the hub. The studded spacers press into a bore in the wheel hub, relying on a splined interference fit and lug nut clamping force to keep them in place. I'll probably have a center "hub donut" machined that doubles as a washer for the hub retaining nut, as well as an index for the center bore in the rim. There appears to be enough space between the castellated hub nut and the cotter key hole in the stub axle to do so.
