long travel for desert racing

[herzog213]

ok so i have been up in the air for a long time not sure what to get....i need long travel for my teryx i want to race in the desert.... i herd funco is good but u need to beef up the arms a little....i have read xmf is good too...but was also told that long travel inds. was a good one for off road.....so i think those 3 are my choices any help in making my mind up would help thanks......

 

[nolanremlinger]

Long Travel Industries kit is awesome! Never felt a smoother ride.

-Nolan

 

[JoeyD23]

well first off welcome to the site.

You cant really go wrong with any of those kits. I know first hand that XMF and Funco are VERY well proven kits both in the desert and on the tracks. With that said you need to look at the smaller details such as shock preferance and that companies experience with those shocks. XMF has EXTENSIVE experience with Walker Evans Shocks and can deliver you a kit with a set of shocks that will almost be perfect out of the box. Same can be said for FUNCO and King shocks. I am not real sure what LTI prefers to use.

If you look here on UTVUnderground you will see that XMF is running some awesome member specials for the month of December.

Good luck on your purchase, keep us posted on what you decide to buy!

 

[niko123]

funco all the way got it on my teryx with king shock run great sand or desert

 

[herzog213]

yes those are good points about the shocks....i am going to run king shocks...have a deal with king... my rex is torn down nothing left but the bottom frame.....cage is done just need to figure out wich long travel to go with so we can make new upper shock mounts want to stand the shocks up a lot more then stock so they work right.....

 

[BiggJim]

Cognito Motorsports!!!! We Have a Smokin sale going right now. For desert racing I think I would go with a tower kit. Our tower Kit uses 8.5 stroke Fox B.O.C shocks (Valved in the desert) They are a position sensitive shock. The last 25% of the travel the valving resisatance increases. We have a limited time offer on this Kit of $4200!

It comes with Summer Bros 300M rear axles, 4340 front axles,2 Shock towers, Box Fox shocks with dual rate springs. All the bushings are polyurethane . The front uses 3/4 uni-balls with 17-4 stainless taper pins. If you are interested give me a call tomorrow.

Cognito Motorsports- 661 588-8085 x206

here a pic of the Kit.

Thanks, Jim

 

[JoeyD23]

and then theres Cognito!!! Comin in hot for 2010-11 with this awesome kit!

 

[BiggJim]

We are planning on racing ours in the dezert this season at least a couple of races. ****NOTE**** the rear shock towers in these pictures are custom to our car

 

[herzog213]

very nice yes i have to make my own rear shock mount as it will be the finishing support for the rear of my fram i'll try to load some pics up so you guys can see what i have in mind and any help or edvice you would like to give thanks for everyones help so far.......please keep it coming.......just wondering has anyone ever used the fst LT kit?

 

[rupert14]

I went with this kit. I can ask the guy if he will make another. He makes some trick J-arm rhino kits also that allow the shock to mount to the lower arm. I have 10" stroke shocks on the car and I was able to lower the hood. I can ask him if you are interested.

 

[herzog213]

so this is where i'm kinda at so far but the cage has been welded and some other plating done....

 

[herzog213]

those arms look nice rupert have u raced yours with the LT?i love the cage....where are u located?

 

[herzog213]

Cognito Motorsports!!!! We Have a Smokin sale going right now. For desert racing I think I would go with a tower kit. Our tower Kit uses 8.5 stroke Fox B.O.C shocks (Valved in the desert) They are a position sensitive shock. The last 25% of the travel the valving resisatance increases. We have a limited time offer on this Kit of $4200!

It comes with Summer Bros 300M rear axles, 4340 front axles,2 Shock towers, Box Fox shocks with dual rate springs. All the bushings are polyurethane . The front uses 3/4 uni-balls with 17-4 stainless taper pins. If you are interested give me a call tomorrow.

Cognito Motorsports- 661 588-8085 x206

here a pic of the Kit.

Thanks, Jim

i like the looks of your kit have how does the tube arms hold up i help my buddies race a class one car seems like they need a little beefing up? not trying to pick your kit apart i just wanna make the right choice because it's a lot of money to me...would u be will to sell just the arms and axles ?i have king shocks already....

 

[rupert14]

those arms look nice rupert have u raced yours with the LT?i love the cage....where are u located?

I have not raced the car but it was raced on this long travel kit before I did a desert build. It was originally a short course car with one race on it when I bought it. A lot had to be changed for the desert. I added the bypass rear shocks, changed the cage, added all the aluminum, changed the cooling, light bar, etc. The hard part is that wider cars are more stable but they don't turn as well. I strongly believe in mounting the front shock to the lower arm as my race rhino has the same and it allows a much longer shock mounted much lower.

My rhino has the shock in front of the axle shaft and the teryx is behind it.

Also consider that the ideal shock mounting position is with the shock 90 degrees to the suspension arm at full compression. If it is laid over more than that it is not ideal but better than standing the shock straight up and passing over the 90 degree mark. If it passes 90 degrees, the shock looses leverage against the suspension arm and the suspension gets softer for the travel that the shock is past 90 degrees. If the suspension progresses to 90 degrees it will get progressively "stiffer" even with a constant spring rate because the shock is gaining leverage as it approaches 90 degrees. If the shock is laid over too far (like most rear rhino shocks) you have to run much more valving which makes the shocks heat up and fade more. Every wonder why most rear shocks on a rhino are around 50-100 degrees hotter than the fronts after a rythm section? They are typically laid over way too far and the shock is too short resulting in heavy valving and heat.

Suspension is a science not an art. Bulding good looking parts requires some artistic ability but the best looking system could be crap based on the design. Be sure you do your homework before you buy. XMF has a great product and in an effort to lengthen the front shocks on a Teryx long travel for racing they move the shock mounting point out by the spindle. This allows for a longer shock but requires more valving due to the angle. In reality most of these systems work but there is a reason Jagged X stopped at our pit after the Henderson 250 to say that Justin's rhino blew by them in the whoops like they were towing another car. Justin has his arms set up just like the orange car and it works. If you run bypass shocks you can overcome some of the angle issues because you can change the valving for different areas of suspension travel. If you don't run a bypass shock, these things are more important. I also passed two or three cars in the whoops with this orange car and it never once started to swap ends.

Best of luck with your decision. I will have boxed chromoly suspension systems for the rhino/teryx out in a couple months and they will have the correct geometry. If I get them done in time, perhaps you can try a set for me and tell me how they work.

 

[BiggJim]

i like the looks of your kit have how does the tube arms hold up i help my buddies race a class one car seems like they need a little beefing up? not trying to pick your kit apart i just wanna make the right choice because it's a lot of money to me...would u be will to sell just the arms and axles ?i have king shocks already....

The tube arm being the non load arm shouldnt have any problems holding up. Ill sell you just the arms and axles if that what you want but i dont reccomend running King Shocks with our kit. We have done extensive testing with fox to get our kit to perform the way it does and you will be starting from scratch on shock valving/spring rates with your kings.

 

[tatum]

Not sure if Dragonfire has there Larry Roeseler kit out yet but I drove Larrys car with this kit at Plaster City and it was unbelievable how good it worked in the whoops.He still had a stock motor but had power steering and I think the car would easily be competetive in racing just because it was so easy to drive and so plush.

 

[Long Travel Ind.]

our LT kit is desert race proven just ask the 4 time BITD champions jagged X how many suspension failures they have had!!!
I have been working with with Brett and Lance king since they were at Custer and with the UTV's since '04 ( longer than any other UTV suspension MFG.)
They specifically build shocks for our kits

 

[Long Travel Ind.]

our arms are all 4130 plate Tig welded and use an upper and lower 7/8 FK bearings