Homemade Teryx Long Travel

I guess I dont have a choice with you and your crew of "race rhinos" I need somthing to help me keep up. :)

But ya if it all works out then it should be more then done for may. If not I guess I will have to show up and teach you Rhino boys how to do it on stock suspension. Thats if I dont crash again this year.

HAHA, Dont you worry too much. I still have to come up with the cash for a fuel cell, new belts and aluminum for my body panels. So slim chance i'll get around to motor work before then and that means your big bad teryx will pull on me on all the fast sections.:(
 

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HAHA, Dont you worry too much. I still have to come up with the cash for a fuel cell, new belts and aluminum for my body panels. So slim chance i'll get around to motor work before then and that means your big bad teryx will pull on me on all the fast sections.:(

The only thing big and bad about my Teryx is my big ass and bad driving.:D
Is that a current pic of you r Rhino? If so get your ass in gear man that thing need finished.


And for tonights update. Work was so crazy today I didnt have a free second to call and order any tube. Im going to try and call first thing in the morning so I can pick it up that afternoon if not I may not be able to get it untill friday. It sucks I can almost see a 3+ A-arm now.



 
I think its great that you are doing this yourself !!!! here is a little constructive criticism I see that you copied the stock balljoint angle and with the added 3" or 5" length it is going to change the articulation of the the ball joint meaning it will run out of movement before your shock cycles through its travel many of the long travel kits out there using stock balljoints make the same mistake!!! you will probably be able to pull it off on the + 3" but i doubt it on the +5"
we also use a silcone bronze (instead of aluminum) for all of our uniball cup slugs and pivot sleaves as it won't gall when pulling the arms from the fixture but I'm sure aluminum will be fine for the amount of are u are trying to build

the problem with cutting your stock axles and adding length to them is they have been heat treated to strengthen the material and when u cut on them and then weld on them it will anneal them and make
them soft as butter

Keep up the good work!!!
 
I think its great that you are doing this yourself !!!! here is a little constructive criticism I see that you copied the stock balljoint angle and with the added 3" or 5" length it is going to change the articulation of the the ball joint meaning it will run out of movement before your shock cycles through its travel many of the long travel kits out there using stock balljoints make the same mistake!!! you will probably be able to pull it off on the + 3" but i doubt it on the +5"
we also use a silcone bronze (instead of aluminum) for all of our uniball cup slugs and pivot sleaves as it won't gall when pulling the arms from the fixture but I'm sure aluminum will be fine for the amount of are u are trying to build

the problem with cutting your stock axles and adding length to them is they have been heat treated to strengthen the material and when u cut on them and then weld on them it will anneal them and make
them soft as butter

Keep up the good work!!!

That is some really good advice on the ball joint. I remember when I did my Rhino with the 3.5 over arms the ball joint had way more travel then the cv, steering and shock did so I guess I thought it would be the same for the Teryx. Thats interesting the stock Kawasaki ball joint is so limited on misalignment.

I totaly understand cutting and welding axels in not a good idea. But this 3" over kits is more for just testing for the "Fun" of it then anything so Im not going to spend the money for axles. Plus its been done before with success. Im not talking he knows a guy who had a friend who cut and welded his axels and they worked ok Im talking I have done it with good results.

When I do my 5" over kit I will buy axels. Im guessing Summers Brothers is the place to buy them?? Or if you or anyone else can point me I a better direction for a set of +5" axles let me know.


Thanks again for the advice. Im not a pro just a 27 year old that has been buying tools for awile and wants to put them to use from time to time. Any criticism constructive or not is welcome. I dont have anything to prove to anyone but I love to see others try stuff on their own so I just want to share mine.
 
The cost of tube has gone up a shit load since my last order in november. None of the guys over on Teryx fourms who talked so much about wanting +3 arms wanted to chip in anything to try a test set. Not that I can blame them but it does get a little old when its all talk. Anyways Yesterday thinking about what I could do to come up with the cash to do a set of +3 arms I ran home durring lunch and listed a VW 091 trans I had sitting in my garage for sale on KSL.com. It sold last night so da da da daaaaaa +3 arms is still my plan to start with.

I picked up the tube then stoped at a friends house to get some tabs for shocks and came home and busted my first +3 arm out. He didnt have much in the way of tabs for smaller holes like the Teryx uses for it shock bolt but this should work just fine and plus now I have two mounting options for shocks.







I would love to stay out in the garage all night working on these but I may be even more lucky then last week. My wife bought us tickets to see "dear John" tonight.
 
"I would love to stay out in the garage all night working on these but I may be even more lucky then last week. My wife bought us tickets to see "dear John" tonight.<!-- google_ad_section_end --> "

You should start adding reviews to this thread of all the "Chick flicks" your wife makes you go see.:D
 
"I would love to stay out in the garage all night working on these but I may be even more lucky then last week. My wife bought us tickets to see "dear John" tonight.<!-- google_ad_section_end --> "

You should start adding reviews to this thread of all the "Chick flicks" your wife makes you go see.:D

Thats not a bad idea. Two birds one stone. I'm going to guess next Fridays review will be "Valentine's Day". so make sure to check back. :)
 
So my idea of just fliping the jig fixtures for left and right will not work because of the crazy angle on the front upper arm. So I will need to build a new fixture. But I did build a lower arm and you can see it next to its stock counterpart.



I feel like I am making some progress. :D
]
 
So a little progress update. Ya I havent been working on it much but thats life some times.

So I finished the fixture for the rear upper arms and have one started. I picked up the shock tabs last night so I can finish the rear uppers up today. (thats my goal).


My friend Andrew who did all the machine work for the jig stuff just finished my rear axles. I only had material to do the rears so untill I have time to pick up more this is all I have.

Anyways Andrew did an awesome job! :D The funny thing is his axles turn more true then the factory ones did.



All tig welded.

 
I reached my goal for the day and more. Finished the top rear arms. Then Built the fixture for the lower rear arms. And spent time during the day spraying some paint on the arms. 6 down 2 to go. My goal is to finish the arms tomorrow.

 
Did you put the shock tab in the same location as the stock one?

Nevermind, just read the entire thread and answered my own question.
 
I finaly went and picked up my Teryx from my sisters house. Thats where I store alot of my stuff for the winter. I got home just as the sun was going down but still had to start the install. I am pumped. I got one corner done.
I just droped off the rest of the material for Andrew monday so I hope he has some time to do my front axles. With any luck I may be able to take it for a short testing trip this weekend.

 

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