All UTV's CVT belt life

badassmav

Well-Known Member
We're installing a CVT temp gauge. I'm short on time, but will add more details later. Nate from Alba sells the complete installation kit, gauge and probe included. That dude always answers any questions. Frankly and honestly. I always enjoy our visits to his shop. Thanks Nate!
 
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In our ongoing efforts to minimize the headaches caused by the CVT drive system, we tirelessly tested no less than 6 different clutch combinations on Friday @ plaster city. Winds were 50 mph, or similar to the IV 250 conditions. Ambient temperature was up to 95 degrees. We didn't really find much more speed, but we did gather tons of valuable data regarding engine rpm and belt temps, and how they relate to the primary springs and weighted arms that are interchangeable.

One setup had us topping out at 74 mph @8150 rpm, with a primary sheath temp over 300 degrees :eek:, and the belt temp at 250. A few small changes later, and we're running over 80 mph @ 7900 rpm's, and the primary sheath was only 180 degrees, and the belt was at 200. I wish we had more time to test additional configurations, but changing a clutch in the Maverick is not the quickest task, and I'm now tearing the car down to the frame in preparation for the 500.

We cut huge holes in the cvt cover as well, but had no time to gather data running different covers. We just stuck with the swiss cheese cover, assuming the cooling would be superior to a cover w/no cutouts. My estimate is we will only have time for one belt change during the 500, and still be in contention for a podium, or possibly even a win.
 
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I would look into the frog skin material to maybe help keep some of the dirt debris and silt from getting in there real bad. What clutches are you all gonna run.
 
At this time, Marc wants me to refrain from sharing too much clutch info, since we are running for the points title. Suffice it to say, that after we bag the championship, I'll be happy to share our set up with you all.
 
Reid, not wanting to give away all the secrets you should give josh a call at cryoheat treatment. We also tested clutches yesterday but our clutch temp was down around 115 degrees belt was about 130, we also run the sensor from Nate, this little gauge told us our belt was around 220:eek: climbing up the sand dune at IV, from this reading we decided to change the belt as a precaution, good thing we did because that belt would not have made another lap. The magic number for the Polaris is about 220. Good luck and see you in Ensenada.
 
Reid, not wanting to give away all the secrets you should give josh a call at cryoheat treatment. We also tested clutches yesterday but our clutch temp was down around 115 degrees belt was about 130, we also run the sensor from Nate, this little gauge told us our belt was around 220:eek: climbing up the sand dune at IV, from this reading we decided to change the belt as a precaution, good thing we did because that belt would not have made another lap. The magic number for the Polaris is about 220. Good luck and see you in Ensenada.
Hey Sean! It was a pleasure meeting you at the IV 250 contingency. Did Josh do something that contributed to your clutch running so cool, or are you referring to cryo-treatment in general? Remember, the CVT drive system, as well as the motor and transmission, is planted square in the middle of the driver and passenger seats on the 2 seat Maverick. Add the shrouding/covers that separate the engine from the passenger compartment, along with the front cylinder exhaust header tube running directly under the CVT cover, and presto, temperatures increase at nearly an exponential rate compared to the XP's which, correct me if I'm wrong, have all of the above mentioned components on the exterior of the vehicle, behind the rear bulkhead. There is more heat shielding materials (thanks to Steve, @ Heat Shield Products!) in the belly of our car than you can shake a stick at! We have been working diligently to find ways to remove the heat that builds up in that area. If it were not for belt failures, we would have enjoyed 3 victories in as many races this season. IT'S KICKING OUR A$$:mad:!
Yeah, I know. I'm boasting again:D! And if frog's had wings.............We'd all have warts on our heads:D:confused::D! Ha heee!
 
Do you have that pipe under the cvt cover wrapped? I seen another can am and the pipe was wrapped to keep the heat down. I think it may make it harder to get to the screws in the cvt cover though. Maybe ceramic coating the exhast?

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Is there a way to pump air into the CVT cover ? Now if this a dumb question don't shoot me.. Just something like a pumper system.
 
Do you have that pipe under the cvt cover wrapped? I seen another can am and the pipe was wrapped to keep the heat down. I think it may make it harder to get to the screws in the cvt cover though. Maybe ceramic coating the exhast?

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Wrap ahoy my boy! Yep. I'm too busy to re-route the primary header over to the passenger side. That would solve (I think) most of our heat problems. Muzzy's offers a cool s/s system that re-routes the #1 header pipe to the other side. Unfortunately, thaty real estate is already spoken for, ala the dual batteries, radiator plumbing, and fuel lines. Heat wrap on the exhaust, reflective shielding on the CVT cover, blowers galore, and now a swiss CVT cover to boot! Given the time, I'd re-route the exhaust, fuel and radiator plumbing, install a fan to cool the tunnel, and trade corrugated ducting for smooth tubing with higher cfm blowers. The fact that most of my posts are done in the wee hours says something about the time available to me. Time is the crux of our lives. Never enough of it, yet foolishly spent!
 
Is there a way to pump air into the CVT cover ? Now if this a dumb question don't shoot me.. Just something like a pumper system.
I'm pumping air into, and out of the CVT enclosure. Blowing, sucking, pushing, pulling. You name it!

Please guys, I'm not trying to be condescending. I'm just being witty! Keep your ideas coming. There is much that we all can learn. Nikal offered me a cool idea, but did it through PM. No need to avoid publicly informing (or humiliating) me. I'd rather all correspondence's be public so that we all can learn from them. The same thing you just suggested, Nikal offered.. A pumper system. How dumb am I to fidget with these generic marine blowers that aren't designed for the elements in which we expose them to. Can't tell you how many times the pumper hoses were rubbing the back of my head as I worked with those inferior bilge blowers:rolleyes:! He's offered to help with my dilemma. What a guy!
 
Have you tried the 4 seater cover with 2 intakes and 2 exhaust maybe one could be used to pump air into and other your normal intake.
 
Have you tried the 4 seater cover with 2 intakes and 2 exhaust maybe one could be used to pump air into and other your normal intake.
Yep. Got the Max cover as well. It's the exhaust pipe that un-does all of the stuff we do to cool that area. That is just speculation on my part.
 
Reid, not wanting to give away all the secrets you should give josh a call at cryoheat treatment. We also tested clutches yesterday but our clutch temp was down around 115 degrees belt was about 130, we also run the sensor from Nate, this little gauge told us our belt was around 220:eek: climbing up the sand dune at IV, from this reading we decided to change the belt as a precaution, good thing we did because that belt would not have made another lap. The magic number for the Polaris is about 220. Good luck and see you in Ensenada.

I would also recommend looking into Cryogenics to. Do the clutches and the Belts. Send in the clutches and springs together but take the springs out of the clutches so there not under tension. Also send your belts to. The Place we use has been doing the Cryogenics process since 1986 and he is a leader in the Process. Cryogenics international.

Cryogenics International
14715 N. 78th Way, Suite 200
Scottsdale, AZ 85260, U.S.A.
Phone: (480) 991-0299
Fax: (480) 991-0929
E-mail: info@cryogenicsinternational.com
 
I used to use Cryo Science. They were in the Oceanside area, but I think moved up North. I was doing everything from CV parts, to Ring & Pinion / gearbox parts, suspension parts and even tried a spun aluminum Centerline wheel once. We would get our wheels straiten and polished. But noticed after the repair the wheels were softer and would later bend in the same place. Using Cryo solved that issue. BTW I was doing this stuff back in 2002! Crazy how time flies, and we told no one of the things we were doing back then.

I know Black Rhino has recently got into the Cryo business. For those in the East county they might be a possible option.
 
I used to use Cryo Science. They were in the Oceanside area, but I think moved up North. I was doing everything from CV parts, to Ring & Pinion / gearbox parts, suspension parts and even tried a spun aluminum Centerline wheel once. We would get our wheels straiten and polished. But noticed after the repair the wheels were softer and would later bend in the same place. Using Cryo solved that issue. BTW I was doing this stuff back in 2002! Crazy how time flies, and we told no one of the things we were doing back then.

I know Black Rhino has recently got into the Cryo business. For those in the East county they might be a possible option.

I was doing our Hp Mercruiser outdrive shafts and related parts back in 1998 and I never had drive failures after that.
Im not sure as to who is good at this Cryogenic treatment but the guy at Cryojenics International has been doing this stuff longer than almost anyone out there and his equipment is designed and Patented by him so he is extremely knowledgeable in this process. Check out his Website. I know he might not be close by but he knows his shit .
Im gonna have him do some of my clutches and Belts . He has some guys send in complete Racing Motorcycle motors , drain the oil take pressure off the valves and he does the whole motor intact. Crazy Stuff. he has rubber bands that were done and they strech farther that normal ones and Razor blades that will stay sharper for longer. Weird stuff but it works.
 
IMO, the swiss cheese housing has to go. Not only is preheated air the only source, but the air is completely unmanaged.

The secondary clutch needs to become an appropriate fan and intake. It's large... and as the clutch shifts out it will move some serious air.
 
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At least on the RZR's in the dunes the swiss cheese covers are the only thing that helped.

On my last 800 Turbo we were putting a bunch more power through the belts than they were designed for.
I tried blowers etc... Nothing really helped.

After a long ride you couldn't hold your hand on the cover. It was way too hot.

No matter what on long rides on the sand we would eat belts..

As soon as I finally ditched the cover I never had another belt problem.

I realize the CAN-AM is a different machine but I cant help but think that the cover can only help.

Everybody told me how it was gonna tear up clutches with them getting sand on them etc...
After 2000 miles and prob 1000 on the same belt the clutches were fine. Didn't even need buttons yet...

I think the heat was way worse for them than a little sand...

I do like the grating though. Should keep anything big out and not affect cooling at all...
 
At least on the RZR's in the dunes the swiss cheese covers are the only thing that helped.

On my last 800 Turbo we were putting a bunch more power through the belts than they were designed for.
I tried blowers etc... Nothing really helped.

After a long ride you couldn't hold your hand on the cover. It was way too hot.

No matter what on long rides on the sand we would eat belts..

As soon as I finally ditched the cover I never had another belt problem.

I realize the CAN-AM is a different machine but I cant help but think that the cover can only help.

Everybody told me how it was gonna tear up clutches with them getting sand on them etc...
After 2000 miles and prob 1000 on the same belt the clutches were fine. Didn't even need buttons yet...

I think the heat was way worse for them than a little sand...

I do like the grating though. Should keep anything big out and not affect cooling at all...


I agree. I do not run ant covers on any of my RZR's.
 
I don't run a cover in the dunes either but in rocks I wouldn't take a chance. I think Mad Viking may be right though with the holes the fans may not do a whole lot and if you running a vacume pump it's probably suck hot engine bay air in. You on the right track imo changing to better air pumps and seal the cover back up and maybe insulate it from the engine heat. I think the location of the engine in the can am make it harder to keep cool then a popo. Maybe a big roof scoop with a screen to keep debris out and Big air ducts tapered down to increase velocity is the way to go along with a big ass pump.

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All that along with the cryo treatment. You should be doing at least the cv joints also I hear great results using it on cv's

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