Ok I'll keep looking , I did remount the rack 2" lower and it helped the bump steer immensely
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Glad to hear it! You can further dial out the bump steer by adjusting the rack clevis centerline.
I noticed the inner tie rod pivots, where they connect to your rack need to be adjusted as well. The bolts that the inner tie rod pivots on, the ones attatching the inner tie rod pivots to the rack clevices, need to be at the same angle as the bolts that your a arms pivot on (angled about 10 degrees downward, towards the rear of the car). Like my rack, yours appears to have clevises threaded into it, with jam nuts to secure them. Rotate those clevises so the pivot bolts match the angle of the a arm pivot bolts. I would be surprised if you get full steering, lock to lock and without bind and throughout the entire wheel travel, in its current configuration. The general mounting rule here is to either match the plane that the suspension pivots upon, or perpindicular to that plane, depending on the components motion requirements.
The only disadvantage you will experience by converting to a front steer, is the process required to remove the front differential. Whereas before, you just removed the bumper (which doubles as a spreader support at the front of the frame), un-bolted the 5 bolts attatching the diff to the frame, and pull the diff, with driveshaft attatched, straight out through the front of the car. Now, you will also need to yank out that pesky, hard to access and
excessively loctited, 1/4 turn at a time retaining bolt that secures the front driveshaft yolk to the pinion gear shaft. Not a worry if you do not perform regular driveshaft maintenanc as we have to.
Don't forget that you still need additional gusseting to the factory down tubes that you welded your new rack mount bracketry to. If you do not tie in the gap between the bottom of the rack mount, and the intersection where the down tube attatches to the frame, said joint will surely fail before its time. Notice the reinforcement that I added to ours. Overkill? Possibly so, but overkill, as it relates to off-road racing, is the key to success.
Another experience I had when putting an aftermarket rack n pinion on the front of the axle, was the reliability of our electric P/S unit. The first race for our car, and it was under 200 miles, was enough to break off the teeth of the gears in the electric P/S unit, and our steering locked up. The Fox steering stabilizers are not just for looks boys and girls. Like everything else we added to the Monster Mav,
they are necessary for our cars' reliability. You most likely will get away without the stabilizers. Most racers do. I'm just sayin'
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Oh, and one last tip about selecting a brake caliper: We barely got away with using a caliper off of an atv to replace the stock Maverick ones because of the mounting offset dimensions. We got lucky, and ours was just barely able to mount to the stock mounting tabs on the spindles. Also, be sure to match the number of pistons in the calipers, as well as the bore diameter of said pistons. Once completed, you want the brake pedal to have a similar feel to it, as well as the car to stop when you depress it. Hydraulic systems are very sensitive, to even the slightest change, in the plumbing that carries it from point "a" to point "b".
Ha ha. No problem, maynard. I'm going to test right now, but will be back here this eve.
