We need Stronger Parts

COPPERHEAD42

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[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hm6wlcrUDyU&feature=share&list=UUGDNZOpc0SQq2ACTk2WsHoQ"]SNAP CRACKLE POP - YouTube[/ame]
 
Say it aint so!!!!! Those poolaris broke something? I thought you poolaris koolaide drinkers said they were the best and never had any issues? I am sooo corn-fused.:rolleyes:
 
For what it is worth here is what we have learned racing WORCS:

On XP:

Axel: Sommers bros axels with 570 CV/boots seem to be a solid combination and have endured Primm, Havasu and Sand Hollow.
Rhino axels full assembly are a close second and less expensive.

Rear end: Machined radius rods with HK ends, replace the stock polaris bolts (way to short) and go to chromoly rear plate with washers.

Belt: Boller belt with external fins reduces heat stress and has lasted longer than stock.

Wheel bearings: FRG/Timken equivalent made outside CN

In each case total cost of ownership hs proven to be far less expensive that repetive replacement of stock parts. These are just a few items. Hops this helps in some way.....
 
For what it is worth here is what we have learned racing WORCS:

On XP:

Axel: Sommers bros axels with 570 CV/boots seem to be a solid combination and have endured Primm, Havasu and Sand Hollow.
Rhino axels full assembly are a close second and less expensive.

Rear end: Machined radius rods with HK ends, replace the stock polaris bolts (way to short) and go to chromoly rear plate with washers.

Belt: Boller belt with external fins reduces heat stress and has lasted longer than stock.

Wheel bearings: FRG/Timken equivalent made outside CN

In each case total cost of ownership hs proven to be far less expensive that repetive replacement of stock parts. These are just a few items. Hops this helps in some way.....



Wow, racers usually lie to us and say they upgraded nothing. Thanks for the tips.
 
Hi Michael,

Well.......we race but not very well sooooooooooo

All that I noted have been less costly per unit than the stock polaris stuff...less the axel solution. Buying the 570 assembly only to throw away the axel and replace it with a sommers bros seemed crazy.....but no breakage and many of the WORCS pros have the same stuff on their cars. In particulr the stock and foreign made axel shafts tend to break in reverse, and cv/boots under stress.
The other area is to gusset the front end as best you can....bolt on or welded as we have found the polaris subframe is not strong enough.
And..stock shocks are ok, but spring compression on most if not all stock cars we have seen is far to great and often times hurting the car....I have been told spring compression greate than 20% is no bueno, we run a dual rate spring setup front and rear....but not required,......if you plan to work really hard invest in the likes of FOX 2.0 or even 2.5 Cognitos that have three way control. If setup is right you can even forgo sway control..........

We have found for our racing the powerplant with minor tweeks such as stage 2, clutch weights etc....is plenty....money is invested in suspension and system protection. As well as an on-board margharita machine.

We may race but we wont lie.........

Cheers

Steve
 
yes......for whatever reason the 570 cv/boot seems to be more robust and when combined with the SB axels seems to work really well.....
 
For what it is worth here is what we have learned racing WORCS:

On XP:

Axel: Sommers bros axels with 570 CV/boots seem to be a solid combination and have endured Primm, Havasu and Sand Hollow.
Rhino axels full assembly are a close second and less expensive.

Rear end: Machined radius rods with HK ends, replace the stock polaris bolts (way to short) and go to chromoly rear plate with washers.

Belt: Boller belt with external fins reduces heat stress and has lasted longer than stock.

Wheel bearings: FRG/Timken equivalent made outside CN

In each case total cost of ownership hs proven to be far less expensive that repetive replacement of stock parts. These are just a few items. Hops this helps in some way.....

Thanks that's some good insight. Most of us have been replacing with Rhino shafts from SuperATV - they are cheap and seem to hold up good. I think most of us would solve the exploding CV issue by getting off the gas when the front end hits the ground.
 
One more thought on this..........some of the Big Truck desert guys use leather cv/boot covers.......this prevents punctures from sharp objects, debree etc.....

we have not had a track yet this year where we thought about using them....but I am told if you run in dense brush, shale rock or areas where you might have lots of flying stuff the boot covers are really usefull.
 
are you using rhino axles & cv's front and back?

Yes haven't had mine break yet. All my breakage was stock. Few of the guys we ride with have broken the rhino shafts and one broke a different aftermarket shaft in half (forget what brand it was I'll check).
 
I think the only time guys in our group have broke rhino's is trying to wheelie and landing on the gas. Other then that I dont think anyone has had any issues with them
 
sorry.....the shop guys coined it that term....I understand the newly available belt is a gates belt but does not have a trade name...
retail on the belt is approx half of the polaris belt that I beleive gates private label makes for them.

I will try and get a gates p/n for the belt in question.
 
We had amazing luck at KOH 2 years in a row by running a stock belt with a blower setup to cool it, rhino's in the rear and DHT's in the front (in 2012 KOH the rhino's weren't long enough and kept coming out). The DHT's have been ripped out when the arms came off the frame, KOH'd twice, and had a riduculous hard year of riding and racing put on them (dirt riot winner, KOH third etc). The rhino's had a click after KOH 12, so a new set went in and not a peep since then.
The front subframe is lacking terribly. The arms are shit too.
Most of it in our group and racing it just let off when you're going to land on the front, and don't try to throttle wheelie haha. (I'm in 42copperhead's group)

I heard Guthrie was running an upgraded shaft with a stock style cv at KOH, was it the 570? Seems counterintuitive to me with 30" tires on sandpaper rock.


Ramble off
 
sorry.....the shop guys coined it that term....I understand the newly available belt is a gates belt but does not have a trade name...
retail on the belt is approx half of the polaris belt that I beleive gates private label makes for them.

I will try and get a gates p/n for the belt in question.

I've had about 3 gates belts here at the shop looking at them, didn't commit to buying any of them as I keep getting told to stick with Polaris. I sold my last S with 2 years of riding hard in the woods on the belt I got it with. My xp (knock on wood) has been in my possession for 8 months and is still on the stock belt. Most of our machines average under 10 mph from all the idling in the creeks waiting to shoot hills. I've found don't idle in gear and don't try to act like you're taking off easy and letting it slip, stomp the gas and go
 

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