Polaris Turbo fix for racers

To the best of my knowledge those are the only things addressed in the XPT recall.

I am not sure if the XPTs and the XP1k's share the same fuel rail or fuel delivery system. I also don't know that PSI that the stock fuel system operates at. I have heard of some fuel rails leaking like you mentioned. I think those were isolated incidents though, in one of them i heard an aftermarket intake canister style had come loose and actually been hitting against the fuel rail...is that true? your guess is as good as mine. I don't know anybody or have personally seen anybody that has had a leaking fuel rail. Do i check mine when i change the air filter out or oil absolutely...look for areas of wet dust or sand that indicate moisture, run my hand around to try and feel moisture, smell for raw fuel etc....

Just as a FYI, I have nothing to do with Polaris on a business level or a personal level really other then owning an XP1K. This is just all information i have come across as an avid UTVer, UTV race fan, and general forum hound Haha!

I 100% understand the concern and frustration from the consumer stand point with the company currently...and i only hope they take the necessary steps to nip this problem in the butt once and for all....own up to any safety short comings in their products and fix them one final time with an explanation to consumers that dis-spells any of the rumors and half truths that are circulating around. I know since all of this started i now carry (2) fire extinguishers and have looked into after market options for heat control and fire safety...

The faster they do what needs to be done the sooner they can get back to the drawing board on a 72" model of the XPT to try and chase down the X3's...
 
I think a billet fuel rail is a good idea. I have heard of a couple stock rails cracking/leaking. It's on my short list seeing as my 2 year old son is strapped in the back seat frequently.
 
I have a question on this billet rail with braided lines are they just pretty or are they really tested. To my knowledge none of them have been pressure tested by any company to be certied.Kind of makes you wonder is it really any better then factory or is some jack me off just assembling it in the back and saying here you go its billet and pretty should work better.
 
I think a billet fuel rail is a good idea. I have heard of a couple stock rails cracking/leaking. It's on my short list seeing as my 2 year old son is strapped in the back seat frequently.

A fire suppression system would be what I would purchase before any fuel rail.
 
A quick look at the stock fuel rail would make you wonder. Box tubing with crimped cap ends. There have been reports of the cap ends leaking and failing. If the end cap does completely fail you have 50psi of fuel that will spray directly at the header (Not good). There are a couple of offering for aftermarket fuel rails, some using extrusion with welded on mounts and billet style where the whole rail is machined from a single piece of billet stock. Billet is usually certified so that would seem to be the best option.
Regards,
 
I have a question on this billet rail with braided lines are they just pretty or are they really tested. To my knowledge none of them have been pressure tested by any company to be certied.Kind of makes you wonder is it really any better then factory or is some jack me off just assembling it in the back and saying here you go its billet and pretty should work better.

The Billet ones just get rid of the soldered together fuel rail...we ran oem fuel rails up until about 3 races ago. Then we tried a billet one to get rid of the OE snaplock type fuel line fitting.
 
The Billet ones just get rid of the soldered together fuel rail...we ran oem fuel rails up until about 3 races ago. Then we tried a billet one to get rid of the OE snaplock type fuel line fitting.


What rail did you guys switch to Jim? I want to get away from those snap fittings as well
 
A quick look at the stock fuel rail would make you wonder. Box tubing with crimped cap ends. There have been reports of the cap ends leaking and failing. If the end cap does completely fail you have 50psi of fuel that will spray directly at the header (Not good). There are a couple of offering for aftermarket fuel rails, some using extrusion with welded on mounts and billet style where the whole rail is machined from a single piece of billet stock. Billet is usually certified so that would seem to be the best option.
Regards,
The big 3 run the same capped and pinched ends on the vehicle you drive day to day. The billet maybe cert but what about braided lines and fittings, not sure if anyone has had one of those blow off but same issue. The only way to I know of to check fuel lines/brakelines/hydralic lines and fittings is to send out and have pressure checked.
 
The Billet ones just get rid of the soldered together fuel rail...we ran oem fuel rails up until about 3 races ago. Then we tried a billet one to get rid of the OE snaplock type fuel line fitting.
Totally agree with you changing system to braided and billet housing with A/N fitting no plastic. But you are putting it on your private utv. How do you make the same kit for the masses with out testing/pressurizing/ certifying the fuel system. Just saying pretty scary for jo blow to be taking apart there fuel system and replacing it with another if you have jack me off putting hoses together. What if jack me off leaves some crap in hose or rail were does it go. Just like A/C and other system there is a way to test it and leave it clean but none of these jack me offs are doing the right steps. Think about this when is the last time you delt with A/C,powersteering on a car and you fot a part from your local parts store were the fitting ends not sealed off, because they were pressure checked then sealed off after done.
 
Totally agree with you changing system to braided and billet housing with A/N fitting no plastic. But you are putting it on your private utv. How do you make the same kit for the masses with out testing/pressurizing/ certifying the fuel system. Just saying pretty scary for jo blow to be taking apart there fuel system and replacing it with another if you have jack me off putting hoses together. What if jack me off leaves some crap in hose or rail were does it go. Just like A/C and other system there is a way to test it and leave it clean but none of these jack me offs are doing the right steps. Think about this when is the last time you delt with A/C,powersteering on a car and you fot a part from your local parts store were the fitting ends not sealed off, because they were pressure checked then sealed off after done.

In my opinion, the fittings the big three use have a much better locking mechanism than the AN fittings use. The stock Polaris fittings are also much better than AN. I want to get away from the stock rail to better accommodate aftermarket lines
 
Totally agree with you changing system to braided and billet housing with A/N fitting no plastic. But you are putting it on your private utv. How do you make the same kit for the masses with out testing/pressurizing/ certifying the fuel system. Just saying pretty scary for jo blow to be taking apart there fuel system and replacing it with another if you have jack me off putting hoses together. What if jack me off leaves some crap in hose or rail were does it go. Just like A/C and other system there is a way to test it and leave it clean but none of these jack me offs are doing the right steps. Think about this when is the last time you delt with A/C,powersteering on a car and you fot a part from your local parts store were the fitting ends not sealed off, because they were pressure checked then sealed off after done.

As a recreation user I wouldn't change any of that unless I was using an fuel cell. The only reason we have changed the rail is because we have to use AN at the tank thus needing to source the clip on to AN adapter. We had a real nice snap lock style but what happens when the plastic part that lock it in place fails? We had thousands of hard race miles on the stock fuel rail....the fuel rails arent the problem.
 
As a recreation user I wouldn't change any of that unless I was using an fuel cell. The only reason we have changed the rail is because we have to use AN at the tank thus needing to source the clip on to AN adapter. We had a real nice snap lock style but what happens when the plastic part that lock it in place fails? We had thousands of hard race miles on the stock fuel rail....the fuel rails arent the problem.
you are 100% correct just trying shed some light on these guys saying its the fuel rail/ fuel system. The funny thing is they still use the plastic ends to connect to fuel tank and rail lol
 
Thanks for the insight.

All it takes is one post about an alleged issue that has never been confirmed and the forums are off and running flocking to buy parts they may never need.
 
you are 100% correct just trying shed some light on these guys saying its the fuel rail/ fuel system. The funny thing is they still use the plastic ends to connect to fuel tank and rail lol

Right! The factory clip is actually a pretty nice piece. It has a real positive lock. But the factory clip on part cant be used when going full race fuel cell.
 
You would hope that those that offer aftermarket upgrades have done their testing. All of the top automotive manufactures have had massive recalls for one reason or another. Bottom line is your only as good as your suppliers.
 
Murray won pro-production turbo with their usual race car and Unlimited with the X3.

Cognito won UTV overall and pro-production NA.

Most factory sponsored racers are running a full tube chassis one off purpose built race car that is basically nothing like a factory ride minus the name on the side, the motor and transmission. Heck a bunch of the 2 seat cars you see racing started life as a 4 seat vehicle. The rules are very liberal in that sense, i think all you have to keep is like the 2 bottom main tubes of the factory frame and the suspension mounting points have to be same measurement and distance "identical" to factory. Dont quote me on that but it is something similar to it. The rules make you change things like fuel tank and firewall construction making these cars very different from the factory, doesn't matter what factory either Popo, Can-Am, AC, John Deer

There are a lot of build threads on here you can search through to find the differences, The RedLands car would be a good one to look at...i think one was posted recently by Madigan Motorsports. You could also look at the thread of Joey and Cagewrx car being built right now by Cognito, it is a XPT.

Shoe string budget racers might have more fun mixing it up at the local or regional races then taking on the factory backed BITD guys. Win some local races and get sponsored by a local shop then move up from there.
That Cognito car is sick.
 

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