Carrol Smith books are a must read - the time spend removing stress risers and points is often underestimated.
Thanks this hub info! Is that the new standard replacement or a Max hub?
You having any issues with the rear outer CVs failing at the threaded area? And if so can you share your findings. PM okay too.
Thanks
I'm not sure if the 'full diameter' casting wheel hub is for the Max or if it is a replacement for the old style. Last time we ordered hubs, that is what was sent. The BRP online micro-fische
http://parts.can-am.brp.com/Index.a...p5o6s71f1&catalog_id=0&language_id=1&siteid=1
doesn't picture the new style. It only shows the cluster styled one, but I'm sure I ordered the new hubs from the old p/n, and the p/n for the 2013 Maverick 2 seater is the same as the part number for the 2014 Max 4 seater. That being said, yes, it probably is the new replacement. (the Jagged X guy was right, based on this lengthy response, I
do have too much time on my hands!)
Regarding the rear, outer CV's, I know the WORCS and other short course guys are having troubles with snapping off the stub axles at the threads (I think where the diameter changes when the threads meet the splines). We have never had any issues in that area, but perhaps you can learn a bit from a discussion that I had a month or so back on this forum:
http://www.utvunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14364&page=2
The BRP engineers recommend that in racing applications, you use a larger diameter hub nut, which has a larger bearing surface, and increase the torque of the hub nut to 200 ft./lbs. Be sure there is no grease on the threads when torqueing the nut, or you risk yielding the section of the stub axle adjacent to the threads (harware tech, another category well covered by Carroll Smith in "Engineer to Win" as well as "Prepare to Win"). In addition to this, they recommended filling in the splines on the wheel hub with red (271) Loctite prior to assembly. The machining tolerance seems to be excessive here. We have been following their recommendations precisely since day 1, and have had 100% success with it. Our current rear stub axle/cv joint body has over 1,200 hard race miles on them, on a 2,000lb. + car with 30" tires, without failure. The only variation I applied to their recommendation, was I used a larger diameter flatwasher behind the hub nut for increased leverage and bearing surface. If I recall correctly, I think the OEM washers used on the sway bar arms were the ones I used. Be sure when installing the washer, that the convexed side faces outward, so the outer diameter of the washer is what is bearing against the face of the splined hub.
To avoid using heat, and potentially damaging your wheel bearing grease and seals when removing the now Loctited wheel hub, you will need to fab a removal tool. I'll attatch pics of the tool that I made, as well as the over-sized hub nuts that I am using. I welded a used hub nut on my removal tool
, since I already have the 32mm socket out to remove the wheel hub. The tool also uses 2 of the lugnuts you removed when removing the wheel, to work (like the "Church Lady" says, "How conveeenient!). Good luck, and thanks for taking your time to read my babbling!