megadesertdiesel
Well-Known Member
The price seems decent. I broke one over MLK trip in Glamis. I have a heavy foot when landing
Rhino Brand axles any good?
- Thread starter megadesertdiesel
- Start date
sand shark
Well-Known Member
///Airdam Clutches
Active Member
you break the rear outer?
in the mud riding community what seems to work is using the Gorilla outer cup, with the OEM bar and OEM inner joint. high loads on the rear axles seem to break the rear outers alot because of their diameter i believe. which is why these mud riding guys swap the inner cups only for a Gorilla cup. i dont know the specifics of whether it just snaps in place or whatever, i just see that being the only way guys can make them last in the GNCC racing and mud riding environment.
in the mud riding community what seems to work is using the Gorilla outer cup, with the OEM bar and OEM inner joint. high loads on the rear axles seem to break the rear outers alot because of their diameter i believe. which is why these mud riding guys swap the inner cups only for a Gorilla cup. i dont know the specifics of whether it just snaps in place or whatever, i just see that being the only way guys can make them last in the GNCC racing and mud riding environment.
megadesertdiesel
Well-Known Member
No, inner. I did loose the same cv boot the day before and coked out all of the grease on a 30 mile fast run from buttercup to glamis. The cv was 470* with no grease, so i think it was weakened before it broke.
BTW the clutch runs perfect! It has an awesome pull 720-7850 rpm.
///Airdam Clutches
Active Member
only run the OEM inners. seen folks change out axles and the inner never lasts. the OEM has the machined ribs to help keep it cool. the multi angles that the OEM axle runs, gets the cup hot. it will cook a standard axle. if you got an aftermarket axle and rode slow trails or you had it under water and mud all the time it would stay cool enough to last. but full throttle in the sand the axles get way wicked hot. you will have to have the cooling ribs on that inner joint like the OEM.
sand shark
Well-Known Member
For reference my rear CVs on the same ride were 300 degrees.
Mike - so far it looks like the choices are Super ATV (Rhino axles), Turner, Gorilla or OEM.
Maybe Lonestar Racing makes some axles. Might want to give them a call.
Mike - so far it looks like the choices are Super ATV (Rhino axles), Turner, Gorilla or OEM.
Maybe Lonestar Racing makes some axles. Might want to give them a call.
the stripping shop
RACER - UTVUnderground Approved
the motor likes 8100-8400 works so much better and did you reflash ecu from evo huge difference.
megadesertdiesel
Well-Known Member
I dont think i have ever seen anything over 8050. No reflash, just scared to do it with the harmonics of the stock motor and $500 for some programming is insane.
the stripping shop
RACER - UTVUnderground Approved
the best 500 you would spend.Way better then that 2000 for those stm clutches. Don't lie you just spent 500 to have those clutches fixed. the motor makes the best power/torque right at 8100-8400rpm. call me I can give you ride in 2 seat maverick with reflash and clutch no motor work you would be surprised. trust me I through the book at these mavericks on upgrades.
megadesertdiesel
Well-Known Member
Actually $350 for the rebuild. If i reflash then i would have to re adjust the clutch correct?
the stripping shop
RACER - UTVUnderground Approved
reflash picks up about 200 rpm it eliminates all the tourque crap you will be pretty impressed. will you have to adjust weight maybe. it will be close might have to lighten up a little.
megadesertdiesel
Well-Known Member
i picked up a pair of Rhino berand axles from Super Atv and ran the Maverick in Glamis last weekend without any issues. The axles shafts, cvs and boots all measured the same as stock, they even have the aluminum heat sinks on the inner cvs.
