Yamaha hard time bleeding brakes

[mochoa]

have brakes on all sides (4) with Jamar E brake

Had wheel spacers and hit a rock (passenger rear) bent brake rotor it got so hot it melted the seals in the caliper. bought a rebuild kit and brake pads and started bleeding lines noticed I had a leak on the other caliper so bought another rebuild kit. no more leaks anywhere went to blead brake lines and I think I have all the air out the lines (bleed about 50 times per side in the back) and I have brake pressure but towards the end foot just drops. give it more time and go to check them and have less pressure and air in lines. I read many forums and allot people have the same problem (hard time bleeding the lines but no one has a method that works. i feel like i need to buy a master cylinder rebuild kit but allot of people thought the same thing but continued to have the same problem

 

[crazywatson]

I use a self bleeder from an auto parts store. I never have had a problem when I've used the bleeder. Just follow the directions. Sound kinda like a bad master cylinder though or you have another bent rotor. When a bent rotor rolls it spreads the caliper so next time you hit the brakes it hits the floor.

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[mochoa]

Thanks for the input. Here's what's going on, after I blead the hell out of it I have someone push down on the brakes while I try and move the tire. I does hold solid for a couple of seconds and then the wheel turns. Meanwhile the person pushing down on the brake pedal feels the brake pedal go down. So I don't think I have a bent rotot (I hope) I kinda made my own brake bleeder contraption where its just a tube on the nipple of the bleader going into a container holding brake fluid (tube is in brake fluid). This way air could come out but not back in. I may just have to buy one and see if works better but based on what I saw I think they pretty much the same thing. Maybe the master cylinder rebuild kit is needed at this point.

 

[Brian lee Rhino450]

R u bleeding like car brakes where u start with furthest from mastercylinder. Then next furthest and so on.

 

[jw3]

I use a mityvac. I think it's spelled right. I bought it yrs ago. It's worked on everything from atvs to heavy equipment.

 

[mochoa]

I start from the furthest brake and work my way to the closest. the mityvac doesn't seem bad they have some for $28 I'll try gravity bleeding first and see what happens first but if it doesnt work will consider the vac. any other input is welcomed thanks

 

[Oc1]

The pedal dropping is indicative of a bad master cylinder. Its possible if you ran the brakes out of fluid you could have a small groove in the master cylinder. CNC cutting brakes are famous for having that problem. People would install them and give them a trial pull before they added fluid and they would have to be rebuilt before they were ever even used. Another option that has worked well for me in the past is to get an extra MC cover and tap it for a small air bung. Pressurize with 3-5 psi and try bleeding again by just cracking the bleeders.
Good Luck

 

[mochoa]

I do have an extra cap ii was thinking about trying something like that. I'll try it tonight. Thanks, if doesn't work I'll order a rebuild kit

 

[Pokahpolice]

Bleeding the brakes on these Rhino's is next to impossible. The issue is the position of the bleeder. It isn't the highest point of the caliper so the air doesn't escape. I don't have a solution for you...when I bleed mine I had a soft pedal for about a month then it seemed to work itself out. I read countless threads on the issue and no one ever offered a solution that worked for me.

 

[Oc1]

If the bleeder is not the highest point its any easy problem to solve. Take off the caliper and put something the same thickness as the rotar inbetween the pads. Bleed the brakes with the bleeder as the highest point. Then re-install the caliper. It creates a bit of work but should solve the problem.

 

[mochoa]

gravity bleed the brakes and problem still exist. will order new master cylinder kit and see what happens.