I am curious if someone could tell me if placing a dry clutch on my Rhino is worth the $1300 bucks. According to Weller Racing they are all the difference in the world but I was hoping for an outside unbiased opinion. I have the motor built to a 686cc. Much like every Rhino owner out there I just want more power to the floor. I know I know should of got a Teryx or a Razr but I've had mine since early 05'. Thanks for the help !
Dry Clutch 411
- Thread starter buttakin
- Start date
JoeyD23
#utvunderground
The Bronco Dry Clutch will definitley improve your Rhinos performance but having had one I will say this.
1. THEY ARE LOUD, if you invest in a dry clutch then you better invest in a helmet or headset, they really increase the db's inside the car both at idle and under RPM.
2. Make sure someone is going to tune it. I never had the chance to get mine to someone who could tune my clutch for me so therefor I dont think I ever got to experience its full potential.
Hope this helps! Keep us posted. There are some members here who know quite a bit about the dry clutches but the old school Rhino guys aren't always here to help any longer.
1. THEY ARE LOUD, if you invest in a dry clutch then you better invest in a helmet or headset, they really increase the db's inside the car both at idle and under RPM.
2. Make sure someone is going to tune it. I never had the chance to get mine to someone who could tune my clutch for me so therefor I dont think I ever got to experience its full potential.
Hope this helps! Keep us posted. There are some members here who know quite a bit about the dry clutches but the old school Rhino guys aren't always here to help any longer.
a rhino wet clutch is pretty basic to set up and can run almost as good as a dry if done right.
Far as i know there is no one there is no one out there that you can drop it off at and pick it up tuned. The best way is to talk with the people that know how and become good friends with them because you will be calling them a lot. Second thing is buy different springs/weights and do some testing.
Far as i know there is no one there is no one out there that you can drop it off at and pick it up tuned. The best way is to talk with the people that know how and become good friends with them because you will be calling them a lot. Second thing is buy different springs/weights and do some testing.
I do them. Let me know if I can help.
As for performance, here's my take......
Acceleration from a dead stop is clearly better with a dry clutch. Acceleration from a roll is not so cut and dry. When we raced UTVs on REAL MX tracks, the dry clutch was the only way to go. Now, most everything in racing is rolling starts or desert. The trade off with a dry clutch is increased noise, and decreased reliability. Unfortunately, A Rhino with a dry clutch is WHEN will it break, NOT, IF if will break. If you are willing to do some clutch maintenance, and don't mind the noise, go for it! They are fun to drive!
As for performance, here's my take......
Acceleration from a dead stop is clearly better with a dry clutch. Acceleration from a roll is not so cut and dry. When we raced UTVs on REAL MX tracks, the dry clutch was the only way to go. Now, most everything in racing is rolling starts or desert. The trade off with a dry clutch is increased noise, and decreased reliability. Unfortunately, A Rhino with a dry clutch is WHEN will it break, NOT, IF if will break. If you are willing to do some clutch maintenance, and don't mind the noise, go for it! They are fun to drive!
facteryfmf
Looking For a Few Good Men - UTVUnderground Approv
Not worth it even if you are racing. Chris is 110% right. But what you are sacrificing
In the end, isn't worth it. The rhino is very difficult to compete with at the levels or racing with the other UTVs as it is now. You need the reliability in the end, on a rhino. (yes im saying in the racing scene). Same basically goes in the dunes also. The sacrificing of the reliability just really isn't worth it. The initial cost of $1200 goes up quickly when you start burning up $120 belts every trip. No, probably not EVERY trip but they get burnt up very fast.
In the end, isn't worth it. The rhino is very difficult to compete with at the levels or racing with the other UTVs as it is now. You need the reliability in the end, on a rhino. (yes im saying in the racing scene). Same basically goes in the dunes also. The sacrificing of the reliability just really isn't worth it. The initial cost of $1200 goes up quickly when you start burning up $120 belts every trip. No, probably not EVERY trip but they get burnt up very fast.
IMHO, the Bronco clutch is worse with belt life than a PDM. We ran a PDM in CORR and Lucas Oil short course with virtually no belt problems. My customers that run the Bronco always seem to have belt issues.
As far as the clutch itself, both types have issues, with the edge here going to the Bronco. The PDM will break a spider (aka star). When it breaks, you're not going anywhere. With the Broncos, they have some plastic parts inside. Those parts malt due to the tremendous heat generated by the belt system. These failures normally affect performance but don't stop the vehicle from moving.
I would stick with the stock clutch unless you are racing.
As far as the clutch itself, both types have issues, with the edge here going to the Bronco. The PDM will break a spider (aka star). When it breaks, you're not going anywhere. With the Broncos, they have some plastic parts inside. Those parts malt due to the tremendous heat generated by the belt system. These failures normally affect performance but don't stop the vehicle from moving.
I would stick with the stock clutch unless you are racing.
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