Del Amo sxs
New Member
Pulling a Maverick Engine
It was time for me to change the motor on the #23 WORCS car for Del Amo Motorsports, and I thought I would share the experience with you guys!
First order of business was to take off all the Paneling. Recently, I changed all of the metal panels with Carbon Fiber. This helped shave weight, as this car is still a little on the heavy side. The Carbon fiber panels are awesome. If you do the work yourself, just remember to put a thicker coat of the resin than you normally would, because of the chipping away the rocks will do. Also, when you make the holes for the Zeus fittings (half turn fittings that hold most race car panels on), these have to be much more precise, and I think I am going to add a silicon rim to each hole because they are wallowing out and making the holes bigger.
Next, I removed the seat, harness, dash, air filter, and clutch filter. After that, remove the entire throttle body and plentum (football shaped black plastic thing behind throttle body) by the two screws on the bottom about center, and the five bolts to the rear where the intake rails are.
Following that, I got the exhaust out of the way along with the clutch cover. { Note: you can remove your clutch belt then pull your primary and secondary which will make it easier but is not necessary}
Now the engine is a little more exposed to work on. I wanted to start with the electrical components first, as it can be very time consuming. For every plug I remove, I labeled it with blue painters tape and write what it goes to. If it came off the starter its labeled "starter", and so on, with every plug. There is a small ground between the cylinders on the driver side you don't want to lose the bolt for. Once I had the engine disconnected I pulled out the entire harness from the ECU and start switches and starter relay to actually remove it from the car. This time when removing the motor, I left the fuel cell in and removed the two lines that enter at the injectors at the top.
Next, remove the two coolant lines from the top and the one return on the bottom front right.
There is a vent for the transmission (rear passenger side) and a vent for the motor (front driver side).
Now, remove the intake rails because they are plastic and can get damaged when pulling the engine.
The only thing left should be the shifter, which connects to the transmission. You undo the bolt (at the transmission end of the shifter), slide it out, then you can pull it off the selector. Also, remove the brace to the #2 cylinder and you can fold the shifter out of the way.
The drive-shafts will still be connected at this point. I have the brace plate for the front, so I have to remove the front a-arm bolts and the bumper to pull the diff forward; but I still leave it connected in the tray. Once the front driveshaft is disconnected I remove one of the rear driveshaft bolts.
There are only two engine mounts to remove the engine. One is at the center bottom in the front. The other is above the transmission in the back. As you pull the engine, slide the rear driveshaft off.
You have now completed a clean engine pull. Hopefully I didn't forget anything, but if I did, feel free to let me know! I also did the install of the new motor-- not much changes. Just the reverse, and add the fluids!
Thanks for reading!
-Nick
It was time for me to change the motor on the #23 WORCS car for Del Amo Motorsports, and I thought I would share the experience with you guys!
First order of business was to take off all the Paneling. Recently, I changed all of the metal panels with Carbon Fiber. This helped shave weight, as this car is still a little on the heavy side. The Carbon fiber panels are awesome. If you do the work yourself, just remember to put a thicker coat of the resin than you normally would, because of the chipping away the rocks will do. Also, when you make the holes for the Zeus fittings (half turn fittings that hold most race car panels on), these have to be much more precise, and I think I am going to add a silicon rim to each hole because they are wallowing out and making the holes bigger.
Next, I removed the seat, harness, dash, air filter, and clutch filter. After that, remove the entire throttle body and plentum (football shaped black plastic thing behind throttle body) by the two screws on the bottom about center, and the five bolts to the rear where the intake rails are.
Following that, I got the exhaust out of the way along with the clutch cover. { Note: you can remove your clutch belt then pull your primary and secondary which will make it easier but is not necessary}
Now the engine is a little more exposed to work on. I wanted to start with the electrical components first, as it can be very time consuming. For every plug I remove, I labeled it with blue painters tape and write what it goes to. If it came off the starter its labeled "starter", and so on, with every plug. There is a small ground between the cylinders on the driver side you don't want to lose the bolt for. Once I had the engine disconnected I pulled out the entire harness from the ECU and start switches and starter relay to actually remove it from the car. This time when removing the motor, I left the fuel cell in and removed the two lines that enter at the injectors at the top.
Next, remove the two coolant lines from the top and the one return on the bottom front right.
There is a vent for the transmission (rear passenger side) and a vent for the motor (front driver side).
Now, remove the intake rails because they are plastic and can get damaged when pulling the engine.
The only thing left should be the shifter, which connects to the transmission. You undo the bolt (at the transmission end of the shifter), slide it out, then you can pull it off the selector. Also, remove the brace to the #2 cylinder and you can fold the shifter out of the way.
The drive-shafts will still be connected at this point. I have the brace plate for the front, so I have to remove the front a-arm bolts and the bumper to pull the diff forward; but I still leave it connected in the tray. Once the front driveshaft is disconnected I remove one of the rear driveshaft bolts.
There are only two engine mounts to remove the engine. One is at the center bottom in the front. The other is above the transmission in the back. As you pull the engine, slide the rear driveshaft off.
You have now completed a clean engine pull. Hopefully I didn't forget anything, but if I did, feel free to let me know! I also did the install of the new motor-- not much changes. Just the reverse, and add the fluids!
Thanks for reading!
-Nick
