Advise on my rhino please

c3ncal559

New Member
Purchased this rhino for my fiancé since when we go to the dunes she sits at camp and read while we ride, picked it up for 3900 07 special edition 660 260 hrs little over 1,xnxx miles , I purchased from a guy a complete yoshimura dual exhaust system complete , 686 big bore kit needs a new piston, gave me some jets, a filter kit to eliminate the box and use a unifilter , and a filter set up for the crank case all for $100 bucks , I plan on replacing the exhaust system whole reason I made this this purchase for that, cause my stock ones are loud from exhaust leaks seen weld marks on the pipes, the filter set up, I don't know about the big bore kit, I'm afraid to do the swap and become a headache later, and if it's even worth the power , as far as the jets I seen one that says 55 and the other a possible 170 and has a needle too and if I should mess with the jets . Thanks
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I read this twice and am still not clear what the question is. The Rhino 686 kit is a pretty involved package to get it reliable. Call Chris at Benchmark for details. He builds the best 686 Rhinos out there and can give you good info.
 
I'm basically deciding if I want to have the big bore kit put on, I got it all for free when I bought my dual yosh pipe
 
Okay, then if it is still a stock 660 bore then call Chris...I personally would not do the 686 unless you do it properly.... More to it than a cylinder and piston to do it reliably. Rhinos are great when the engine is left stock with a good suspension kit.
 
Ok then I'll leave it out, dual yosh pipe complete system, with filter box eliminate kit, with unifilter should I rejet it?
 
If you are going to run that pipe with an air box delete filter then yes you should rejet. That's going to take some trial and error to get right. What elevation do you ride?
 
I would think it should be pretty easy to get the jetting in the ball park for sea level riding if you ask around with that pipe and intake combo.
 
I would not bother with the exhaust as it is just going to make a lot of noise and nothing for performance.

I had a rhino with a 686 kit on it. If done correctly it is very reliable. To get it to preformed you need to have some porting done and get a bigger carb over the stock one and some other mods.

If you want to leave it a 660, I would suggest getting a Mikuni HSR45 carb, a cdi, and a clutch sheave. This will give you the best bang for your money. You will need these if you do the 686 anyway.
 
if you are using a stock cdi a 12:1 686 is fine. if you have a non-programmable aftermarket cdi do not go over 10:1 on a 686, brian at long travel used to get small batches of CP's made. if you have a programmable cdi then you can run a higher compression piston. i have a custom 14.5:1 CP in a friends car with a programmable running race gas. non-programmable cdi's advance to the highest point around 5500-6000 rpm then shelf to 9000 rpm, and cause detonation from too high advance at higher rpm. you need to start retarding the curve past 5500-6000 rpm. chris from benchmark can sell you a programmable cdi with a custom curve to make your head gasket live. i have built alot of heavily modded 686's, most using chris's head, that live long lifes.
 
The reason I'm replacing the stock exhaust system is cause the owner before must of had an exhaust leak n welded up a bunch of spots now it leaks even worse n sounds like crap , I'm all stock in the rhino besides suspension, I plan on the pipe n headers, the filter kit, then a cdi box but I gotta save money for the cdi I gave everything else
 
The Mikuni HSR45 is a direct replacement. You may have to get a throttle cable, put I can't remember if mine required it.

Just prepared for a loud exhaust with the Yoshi or any aftermarket exhaust on the Rhino.
 
If i do the cdi, head port, sheaves, carb how fast would I be looking at? When I do the sheave do I got to get a machine sheave ?
 
If i do the cdi, head port, sheaves, carb how fast would I be looking at? When I do the sheave do I got to get a machine sheave ?

With the CDI, carb and sheave you will be in the 50s. Stock I think they do 39 bouncing off the rev-limiter. With just the CDI and carb you will see around 45mph. A sheave can add another 5-7mph.

With my 686 with porting, cam, carb, cdi and sheave I was in the low 60s in the dirt. In the dunes the best I saw was in the mid 50s.

Having paddle tires on a Rhino helped alot in Glamis. 7 paddle skat with buffed front tires on a douglas red label rim.
 

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