2012 RZR 4 800 Clutch
- Thread starter JTKJR
- Start date
Bajaxp
SXS Racer Extraordinaire - UTVUnderground Approved
I think TEAM is working on one and their stuff is very good.
Supreme makes one with a lot of big claims, but I have not heard of anyone who has used it. I believe that you need to buy the drive and driven to make the Supreme one work.
http://supremetoolinc.com/cart/atv-clutching-c-12.html
What happened to your stock clutch or why do you want to change it? Perhaps we can help you here.
Supreme makes one with a lot of big claims, but I have not heard of anyone who has used it. I believe that you need to buy the drive and driven to make the Supreme one work.
http://supremetoolinc.com/cart/atv-clutching-c-12.html
What happened to your stock clutch or why do you want to change it? Perhaps we can help you here.
Thanks sos much, I will, everyone seems to tell me that the 2011 is different, but not sure, Thanks again.
redrhino99
Redrhino99
I heard EPI clutch kits work good and reasonable in price.
TNT
Banned Por Vida
I called Mike @ Weller out of curiosity; I’m always interested in these claims. I asked him how you get more WHP out of after market clutches, to explain to me how you improve the casted clutch mating surface to rubber belt interface and coefficient of friction since that is really what we are talkin bout, to produce more WHP? By modifying the weights and springs he said? He could not answer me on exactly how that occurs, he told me to call airdam who is hard to get a hold of. Like to see what the explanation is not a ton of subjective theory no one can explain or tons of dyno results that are meaningless. When you get a decent response bring it out here, and as Bajaxp said we may be able to help weed through it.
I guess there is always the possibility of improving shift rates and belt side loads with different springs and weights, but adding more side load is not all there is to required friction. The stock assembly should do that for stock motor, if you have modified the CHP and want to get more WHP then it becomes of matter of trial and error on the specific mods, TQ/HP curves, not a cookie cutter solution for everyone, and I would really challenge the bang for the buck can’t be much. With more side load from CHP I can see a need for a billet clutch of thicker casted one, bigger weights and springs, and a better belt for reliability, but the heavier assy will produce a reduction in WHP.
My .02
Thanks I appreciate all the imput, I'll give him a call. Thanks again.Call Dale at Dirty Dawg Performance and he will talk to you! The clutch kit I bought for my XP700 was the best bang for the buck I spent on it! It will be the first real mod I make on my XP900! It is about power band, riding style, altitude, and shift points! I talked to him and he had all the answers and didn't just quote numbers to me
Thanks, make sense, all of you have been a great help with great leads.I called Mike @ Weller out of curiosity; I’m always interested in these claims. I asked him how you get more WHP out of after market clutches, to explain to me how you improve the casted clutch mating surface to rubber belt interface and coefficient of friction since that is really what we are talkin bout, to produce more WHP? By modifying the weights and springs he said? He could not answer me on exactly how that occurs, he told me to call airdam who is hard to get a hold of. Like to see what the explanation is not a ton of subjective theory no one can explain or tons of dyno results that are meaningless. When you get a decent response bring it out here, and as Bajaxp said we may be able to help weed through it.
I guess there is always the possibility of improving shift rates and belt side loads with different springs and weights, but adding more side load is not all there is to required friction. The stock assembly should do that for stock motor, if you have modified the CHP and want to get more WHP then it becomes of matter of trial and error on the specific mods, TQ/HP curves, not a cookie cutter solution for everyone, and I would really challenge the bang for the buck can’t be much. With more side load from CHP I can see a need for a billet clutch of thicker casted one, bigger weights and springs, and a better belt for reliability, but the heavier assy will produce a reduction in WHP.
My .02
TNT
Banned Por Vida
No prob, there is a price to be paid for “bigger and better” just beware more rotating clutch mass generally means less reliability, more load on the drive train and CHP. What do you want to fail first?
For everyone else that does not always believe sales hype and think you have to replace your clutch here is a tip: Take the stock light weight casting to a professional(do not try this at home), preferable certified pro have them shot peen the mating surface to the belt to 125 RMS. What that will do is prevent a tension crack at the surface (which is how cracks occur and propagate) which casting’s are notorious for. It does so by putting the surface in compression, I use it as a disposition after mechanics gawl surfaces up from drills, grinders, etc. It’s a fine ceramic of different grit wheel 3M, etc. It should also improve the coefficient of friction, fatigue and thermal properties, belt reliability by allowing better heat convection from a more dense belt mating surface, you will then have a more reliable higher strength-to-weight ratio than stock and I’d bet after markets. Good luck!
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