Yamaha Rhino axles and CV's?

Rusty5150

UTVUG PHOTOG
My neighbor is having major issues with his Gorilla CV's failing.

Option 1: Take car to Bakersfield Rhino and they will fix it with a warranty.

Option 2: Switch it out to stock CV's and new Sommers bros axles.

Option 3: Try to fix it by getting some new Gorilla CV's.

Does anyone have some stock CV's for sale? He would need a whole set of rear. Any R1 conversions with extra parts laying around.
 
Is it CV problems, or axle problems? Is he sure he's not over drooping/ binding the CVs? Adequate axle plunge through the suspension cycle?
 
My neighbor is having major issues with his Gorilla CV's failing.

Option 1: Take car to Bakersfield Rhino and they will fix it with a warranty.

Option 2: Switch it out to stock CV's and new Sommers bros axles.

Option 3: Try to fix it by getting some new Gorilla CV's.

Does anyone have some stock CV's for sale? He would need a whole set of rear. Any R1 conversions with extra parts laying around.

Option 4: Use Weller Super Hub's $1,150 and Funco's inner type 2 stubs $400, then buy my extra set of 300M axle's with type2 spline for $250. Then you will have a setup that will out live your Rhino no matter how much HP or miles you put on it.

Yeah, I know its pricey but it the best of the best, and I dont regret spending that much on my axle setup. :D I did wast my money on the Gorilla setup the 1st time around.:mad:
 
ive only had one gorilla cv fail, and it failed withing 5 minutes so im assuming a casting flaw. the axles are junk. i had ryan at TCS (the converter shop ) make me a set of real 300m axles, never had an issue after that. oh and as far as too much angle and binding, the gorilla has alot more angle than stock.

exactly how is the cv failing?
 
I am not sure about the axle lengths, plunge and that stuff. I have not really had time to give him a hand.

Basically he has Sommers Bros axles with Gorilla cv's. He is running the King Coilpass setup. I will go to his house tomorrow and get to the bottom of it.

Thanks for the input.
 
if the cvs are popping out of the diff its common to have short axles. gorilla was notorious for short axles.
 
Hi guys thanks for any input sorry for all the details just wanted to give all info thanks again (thanks Rusty)

Here is the original set up for the rear
stock outers with gorilla inner cv's and summers bro. axles. no circlips on the axles at all (floaters) with king bypass coil overs. According to some right now with this set up I should be able to get a full 17" of travel by going to stock inners and outers with summers bro. axles I will be limited to 13-14" of travel and will need to get limit straps (currently shocks have inner stops for current set up). reason why I should get more travel out of gorillas is gorilla cv's can do 42-43 degrees vs stock 22-23 degrees. I think the axles might be 1/4" to long

I know no one uses gorilla any more and stock is more reliable but 3-4"of travel sacrifice? Bakersfield rhino swears by the set up and says they ran there car for 5 years and never had any issues with the set up.

took car out twice with no prob. that I knew of, rear diff seal was leaking so took to mechanic and he messed an axle up (passenger side). went to take axle out of inner cv and would not come out. the splines were damaged on the tip and would not allow axle to come off star and cage. had to get a grinder and cut cage to get everything out, ordered a new axle (exact match from summers) and replaced star and cage. took for a test drive and cv joint was popping out. bought new cv joint circlip and same issue.
proceeded to bolt cvs together to fix problem and driverside axle would not come out either had to grind cage so get everything out. fixed the splines 1/4" on the outer edge and replaced with new star and cage and bolted cv joints together. other side of diff started leaking so went to replace and again either side of the axles would not come out of diff due to splines getting damaged. had to grind cv in half and drill out the bolt head to take apart. I think the problem might be axles are to long
 
It looks like your axle is too long.Since gorilla cvs arent fixed on the axle it is easy to check for correct length by jacking it up and seeing how much axle plung you have at full droop.Unless your axles are so long that they are hitting the inside of the cv which is what looks like is happening. You should have about a 1/4 inch of plunge at full droop.
I dont care what Gorilla says they wont go to 42 degrees and spin freely at any speed. I had them and had nothing but issues with them.Unless your kit is more than 6 over stock 17 inches of wheel travel is not realisticunless your car hits ground before the suspension bottoms out.
 
Hi Tatum,

Thanks for the input, at this point I'm pretty convinced that axles are to long. as for checking for plunge when the car was sitting at ride height I had about an 1" of plunge but when I checked it at full droop there was no play/ plunge. I dont know if it was an accurate test though because the splines were messed up on the tips of the inner cv joint, now I'm in the position where I need to buy 1 gorilla cv joint and see if jose at summers bro can cut the axle to correct length if possible or just switch over to stock. stock I'm looking at $600 or buy a used gorilla cv joint for now and cut the splines to see if it even works or I continue to have issues.

To some credit to these guys that are claiming the 17" of travel out of the set up they hold the record for the longest jump in a rhino in both pismo and glamis in the utv class (unless it has been beaten recently) and my car is there sister car with the same set up suspension wise and Jose from summers bro did say these guys were buying allot of axles experimenting until they came up with this set up. so I dont know
 
Also yes the car is running the same set up that works for these guys but I have no intention of trying to start doing long jumps and as for the axles goes my length on that may not be the same either. Mine could be off by 1/4 " causing this headache.

Thanks for the input, need serious help to fix this problem and make this thing solid (for a reasonable price)

thanks again
 
best way to check if they are too long is to take the shock off and put the arms level. with the arms flat check the play in the axle. this is the most compressed part of the stroke. as long as there is a little wiggle your good.
 
Make sure you are putting the axle assemblies on the correct side.The Rhino diff is offset and I think its the right side that takes the longer axle.
 
As for the axles and location both axles are identical as the differential has been centered in the car.

As for axle plunging I will check today, I have to clean up the splines with a dremel or something and try and get a cv joint together I think I have the an extra gorilla cv cup and I should be able to pull a star and cage out in one piece from the old cv (had to grind one cv joint in half with out damaging cage and star to drill through the head of the bolt. other side of the cv still had the bolt in it. I will let you guys know thanks for the help.

does anyone know if the axle is to long if can be cut down? or do I need all new axles?
 
You can cut them down and grind a new groove for the c clip.I would check your axle plunge at full droop and with axles level.I am pretty sure even on a true a arm setup that the axle has to be longer at full droop than when level.
I would try to do this with the boots pulled away from the cv and make sure the axle is not binding on anything.Good luck.
 
The Rhino was picked up on Sunday afternoon by the Bakersfield Rhino. Great service by Bakersfield Rhino. They were in town for a horse show so they came by the house and loaded the Rhino.
 
Hi Guys, I will let you guys know what the results are

As for the kit not sure but here are some pictures of the rear suspension maybe you can tell by looking at it
 

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looks like brians older kit LONG TRAVEL RHINO. and i wanna say it was a +5 kit.
 

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