Hey guys,
In case you didn't get a chance to read it, here's a link to the initial test of the RZR 4: http://www.utvunderground.com/f2/polaris-rzr-4-review-3877.html
Like all vehicles you purchase for normal every day use, the stock protection is not quite up to the task when vehicles are subjected to hardcore off-roading. In our case, the RZR 4 was no exception. Although the stock skid plates provide ample protection for mild off-roading, we needed something to withstand a constant beating over a long period of time. The most important thing is to protect all the expensive components that sit directly above the skid plates.
To start, we opted to install 3 primary protection components: skid plates, a-arm guards, and a roof. Although there’s a constant discussion between what’s better to use, UHMW or aluminum, we opted once again for aluminum because of its impact resistance and rigidity. There are a lot of expensive components sitting just above the skid plates, so having a material that doesn’t limit ground clearance and is rigid enough to withstand repeated impacts was critical. Having been very impressed with Dirt Performance, Inc’s skid plates before on a race RZR build, we contacted them again to see what they had in store for the all-new RZR 4. As with any new vehicle, Rylan hadn’t got his hands on a new RZR 4 to mock up all the products he had planned for it. So, being only a short distance away, we brought the RZR 4 up to him to begin the process of measuring and creating 3D models of the skid plates, a-arm guards, and roof. And, let’s just say we had no idea what it really takes to design and build these parts that’s for sure.
To start, we watched Rylan Bowlin begin to take measurements of the undercarriage of the RZR 4. After identifying the exact measurements, he moved to his computer to begin the design. Rylan uses 3D modeling to make sure that when duplicating each part hundreds of times, every angle, bolt hole, and cut are precisely where they need to be each and every time.
After the design phase is complete, he uses the 3D model to begin mocking up the first pieces.
Once Dirt Performance has complete the manufacturing process, they send them off to be time-saved (brushed) to give them that finished look. So, now it’s time to begin the installation process. To start, you begin by installing the rear center skid plate using the supplied backing plates. Then, using the self-tapping screws, install the two rearmost mounts into the frame.
Make sure to use a blue or red Loctite on each of the fasteners, so they don’t back out with repeated use.
Next we move to the rear belly skid by lining up the 3 large holes towards the front and begin hand threading in the 5 rearmost fasteners.
From there, tighten everything up and move on to the smaller of the two remaining rectangular skids.
Once again, line up the 3 larger holes towards the front and begin hand threading the 3 dimpled holes in the rear of the skid. Tighten everything down and move on to the larger rectangular skid plate.
Line the large holes up front and tighten the 6 fasteners and move on to one of the side skids.
To install the side skids, you first install the angle brackets to the frame using the round and elongated holes for mounting to the frame, not the two smaller holes.
The two smaller holes are used for mounting the skid plates to the brackets.
Next, you install the side brackets by removing the T30 Torx bits from the plastics and re-installing them with the supplied side brackets.
Now, you’re ready to install the rearmost side skid, which is the one with the bracket protruding out from the front edge.
One thing to remember is to leave all of the bolts slightly loose, which will make it easier to line everything up. Once all of them have been inserted, tighten them down and move on to the front side skid.
Don’t forget to install the fastener on the top of the side skids, as well.
In case you didn't get a chance to read it, here's a link to the initial test of the RZR 4: http://www.utvunderground.com/f2/polaris-rzr-4-review-3877.html
Like all vehicles you purchase for normal every day use, the stock protection is not quite up to the task when vehicles are subjected to hardcore off-roading. In our case, the RZR 4 was no exception. Although the stock skid plates provide ample protection for mild off-roading, we needed something to withstand a constant beating over a long period of time. The most important thing is to protect all the expensive components that sit directly above the skid plates.
To start, we opted to install 3 primary protection components: skid plates, a-arm guards, and a roof. Although there’s a constant discussion between what’s better to use, UHMW or aluminum, we opted once again for aluminum because of its impact resistance and rigidity. There are a lot of expensive components sitting just above the skid plates, so having a material that doesn’t limit ground clearance and is rigid enough to withstand repeated impacts was critical. Having been very impressed with Dirt Performance, Inc’s skid plates before on a race RZR build, we contacted them again to see what they had in store for the all-new RZR 4. As with any new vehicle, Rylan hadn’t got his hands on a new RZR 4 to mock up all the products he had planned for it. So, being only a short distance away, we brought the RZR 4 up to him to begin the process of measuring and creating 3D models of the skid plates, a-arm guards, and roof. And, let’s just say we had no idea what it really takes to design and build these parts that’s for sure.
To start, we watched Rylan Bowlin begin to take measurements of the undercarriage of the RZR 4. After identifying the exact measurements, he moved to his computer to begin the design. Rylan uses 3D modeling to make sure that when duplicating each part hundreds of times, every angle, bolt hole, and cut are precisely where they need to be each and every time.
After the design phase is complete, he uses the 3D model to begin mocking up the first pieces.
Once Dirt Performance has complete the manufacturing process, they send them off to be time-saved (brushed) to give them that finished look. So, now it’s time to begin the installation process. To start, you begin by installing the rear center skid plate using the supplied backing plates. Then, using the self-tapping screws, install the two rearmost mounts into the frame.
Make sure to use a blue or red Loctite on each of the fasteners, so they don’t back out with repeated use.
Next we move to the rear belly skid by lining up the 3 large holes towards the front and begin hand threading in the 5 rearmost fasteners.
From there, tighten everything up and move on to the smaller of the two remaining rectangular skids.
Once again, line up the 3 larger holes towards the front and begin hand threading the 3 dimpled holes in the rear of the skid. Tighten everything down and move on to the larger rectangular skid plate.
Line the large holes up front and tighten the 6 fasteners and move on to one of the side skids.
To install the side skids, you first install the angle brackets to the frame using the round and elongated holes for mounting to the frame, not the two smaller holes.
The two smaller holes are used for mounting the skid plates to the brackets.
Next, you install the side brackets by removing the T30 Torx bits from the plastics and re-installing them with the supplied side brackets.
Now, you’re ready to install the rearmost side skid, which is the one with the bracket protruding out from the front edge.
One thing to remember is to leave all of the bolts slightly loose, which will make it easier to line everything up. Once all of them have been inserted, tighten them down and move on to the front side skid.
Don’t forget to install the fastener on the top of the side skids, as well.
