All UTV's Must have upgrades

[Ripper]

I'm new to the sport UTV sport realm so please bare with me.

I have noticed that all of the UTV's have their strengths and weaknesses. The LAST thing I want to happen is going out on a weekend getaway and break a tie rod, drop a tire and the list goes on as we know.

Knowing there are upgrades for these sold by the companies that make them when they should already be part of the vehicle! Can someone list a few of the much needed upgrades for these vehicles to help prevent something from breaking?

I'll admit, and I don't want to pi$$ in anyone's oatmeal saying this, but I'm pretty rough on toys

I'm looking at getting a new Razor, but I'm also open minded to the Mav and Cat.

To be honest, I'm really disappointed seeing so many of these vehicles breaking like they are... I'm really interested in the future of sport UTV market. I almost want to hold out and see if a company will stop raising horse power by 10 at a time and stop installing ATV tie rods/swing arms on much heavier vehicles they were not designed for...

What say you?
Much respect,
RiP

 

[Rokitman]

Not everybody needs the upgrades. Many of us don't thrash and abuse a machine not designed for it. The average buyer spends very little on aftermarket stuff. Manufacturers target the average buyer because they buy more machines than the romp and stompers.

 

[megadesertdiesel]

start with the safety stuff first. 5 point harness, doors/nets,.... then move to beefing up the weak spots- heavier tie rods, pivot point gussetts, skid plates, rollcage,.... then get into the extras like radio communication, terrain specific tires, bling, .......

all of the Utv's will hold up just well to an 80 year old grandpa tooling around the grass field with an egg between his foot and go pedal, but the first time you get the tires off the ground you are gonna feel the fun and keep doing it eventually bending or breaking something weak.

just dont get stupid with bling, fancy paint, big stereo, 3 tv's, crushed velvet linned panels, heated racing seats, huge assortment of lights...... wel in short dont do what i did 3x's over and put 30k into a damn dirt toy.

 

[Rokitman]

start with the safety stuff first. 5 point harness, doors/nets,.... then move to beefing up the weak spots- heavier tie rods, pivot point gussetts, skid plates, rollcage,.... then get into the extras like radio communication, terrain specific tires, bling, .......

all of the Utv's will hold up just well to an 80 year old grandpa tooling around the grass field with an egg between his foot and go pedal, but the first time you get the tires off the ground you are gonna feel the fun and keep doing it eventually bending or breaking something weak.

just dont get stupid with bling, fancy paint, big stereo, 3 tv's, crushed velvet linned panels, heated racing seats, huge assortment of lights...... wel in short dont do what i did 3x's over and put 30k into a damn dirt toy.

Whether you do it or the factory does it, the price will be the same! Just consider the majority of folks buying these machines don't want all the extras you end up buying anyway. Why price them out of the market for your specific needs?

And btw, this 60 year old can drive with the best of the youngsters (no egg under my foot), but I choose not to do so because I cannot affort to be breaking things (my body included) not designed for racing or jumping.

 

[Ripper]

start with the safety stuff first. 5 point harness, doors/nets,.... then move to beefing up the weak spots- heavier tie rods, pivot point gussetts, skid plates, rollcage,.... then get into the extras like radio communication, terrain specific tires, bling, .......

all of the Utv's will hold up just well to an 80 year old grandpa tooling around the grass field with an egg between his foot and go pedal, but the first time you get the tires off the ground you are gonna feel the fun and keep doing it eventually bending or breaking something weak.

just dont get stupid with bling, fancy paint, big stereo, 3 tv's, crushed velvet linned panels, heated racing seats, huge assortment of lights...... wel in short dont do what i did 3x's over and put 30k into a damn dirt toy.

You sir are track'n. I hate bling. If I got it; it would be ripped off, gashed by a tree limb or something. Not part of my plan. I was thinking bottom skid plates, side bars, beefy tie rods etc.

Safety is a automatic no brainier especially the 5 point seat belts, helmets for everyone in family etc.

Don't they come with stereos

Thanks for all the replies!
Much respect,
Rip

 

[HighLifter Underground]

I am in the same boat with most of you guys on this. Personally, I am not a fan of the "bling" or really anything that does not serve a purpose specific to what you are doing. However, I am definetly in favor of any accessory that can help the chief cause.
Ripper, as you mentioned you are considering a new RZR I would like to mention a few items that I would consider essential whether you are in the muds, the dunes, or on the rocks. For the sake of conversation, these items are available in a few different colors and for a couple of models.
First, the "Max Clearance" Front Lower Control Arms provide more than 2” of additional clearance where you need it the most. These give you the MOST clearance in the front of your RZR without adding a lift, keeping the driveline angles the same as stock. This means No added wear and tear on other components – such as your CV joints, bearings and ball joints. The a-arms are crafted from 1 1/16” x .120 wall steel DOM tubing – a serious upgrade from factory materials. Each a-arm features additional gussets adding even more strength where you need it most. Additionally, the a-arms can reuse your factory ball joints and bushings.
Second, "Max Clearance" Lower Arched Radius Bars. A bent rear radius bar on your ride will hinder your ground clearance and can quickly lead to a broken outing or getting stuck because you’re hung in a rut or on a rock. Made from 1 ¼” x 3/16” DOM steel tubing, the Max Clearance Series Radius Bar is a beefy addition compared to the OEM bars (3/4”) and other competitors (1”). The simple bolt-on kit also features a 5/8” heim joint with a load rated at 17,955 pounds and polyurethane bushings for durability in the deep ruts and along the rocky terrain. You didn’t spend $15,000 on the your UTV to save a few bucks on a weak link.
Third, the "Max Clearance" Series Trailing Arm Kit gives you 4 ½” of added clearance by allowing the arm's main bar to run parallel to the frame, greatly increasing the approach angle in front of the rear tires. The arched design elminates the descent of the bar in front of the rear tires, eliminating the drag and scraping that can be seen in some of the roughest and rockiest terrain. When your machine climbs out of those deep ruts or over large rocks or logs, your rear tires will easily roll over anything in their path. Just like the control arms these trailing arms keep the driveline angles the same as stock with no added wear and tear on other components. Crafted from 1 ½ x ¼” wall steel DOM tubing, these trailing arms are extremely durable.
Lastly, the "Signature Series" Rear Tow Hook for the RZR 900 XP is a simple bolt-on application using factory hardware.It replaces the thin factory plate and provides a heavy duty tow loop for towing needs. The plate is 1/4" and has a 3/8" welded open tow loop design that allows you to attach almost any strap or hook. These are also available for the front of the RZR 1000 XP.
I do hope this information could be of some use to anybody that is looking to enhance their experience no matter where or how you ride.